Parker Yahoo Group Archived Messages

ID From Subject Date
649 peter seminara RE: Re: 21SE trim tab replacement help please 10/16/2005 19:44:00

I was told by the Bennett Rep. that in the past they found some actuators
were leaking voltage out the stainless shaft. We checked it last year no
sign but I am going to have my mechanic check it out again.



-----Original Message-----
From: <a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=qjuOK2zdHEgp07Pw4TCk-4BCgU6WaUUuCsAhLwl2A27l4TWNopvg-6MXXdSQ-LghIamhe09CDJHWCxU7kjMlfc1vZ68">parkerboats@yahoogroups.com</a> [mailto:<a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=qjuOK2zdHEgp07Pw4TCk-4BCgU6WaUUuCsAhLwl2A27l4TWNopvg-6MXXdSQ-LghIamhe09CDJHWCxU7kjMlfc1vZ68">parkerboats@yahoogroups.com</a>] On
Behalf Of rraccuia
Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2005 5:21 PM
To: <a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=qjuOK2zdHEgp07Pw4TCk-4BCgU6WaUUuCsAhLwl2A27l4TWNopvg-6MXXdSQ-LghIamhe09CDJHWCxU7kjMlfc1vZ68">parkerboats@yahoogroups.com</a>
Subject: [parkerboats] Re: 21SE trim tab replacement help please



I do...this is my third year. The first two years they really eroded,
probably 60-70%, this year maybe 25%...I use the clam shells and replace
them each spring. One odd thing...the zincs on my outboard show very little
wear after three years.
--- In <a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=qjuOK2zdHEgp07Pw4TCk-4BCgU6WaUUuCsAhLwl2A27l4TWNopvg-6MXXdSQ-LghIamhe09CDJHWCxU7kjMlfc1vZ68">parkerboats@yahoogroups.com</a>, "peter seminara" <pseminara@r...> wrote:
>
> Do you guys use zincs on your trim tabs and do you find that you have to
> replace them often?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chherios
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: <a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=qjuOK2zdHEgp07Pw4TCk-4BCgU6WaUUuCsAhLwl2A27l4TWNopvg-6MXXdSQ-LghIamhe09CDJHWCxU7kjMlfc1vZ68">parkerboats@yahoogroups.com</a> [mailto:<a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=qjuOK2zdHEgp07Pw4TCk-4BCgU6WaUUuCsAhLwl2A27l4TWNopvg-6MXXdSQ-LghIamhe09CDJHWCxU7kjMlfc1vZ68">parkerboats@yahoogroups.com</a>] On
> Behalf Of rraccuia
> Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2005 8:39 AM
> To: <a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=qjuOK2zdHEgp07Pw4TCk-4BCgU6WaUUuCsAhLwl2A27l4TWNopvg-6MXXdSQ-LghIamhe09CDJHWCxU7kjMlfc1vZ68">parkerboats@yahoogroups.com</a>
> Subject: [parkerboats] Re: 21SE trim tab replacement help please
>
>
>
>
> Thanks, that was very helpful info....How did you id the the power cable
> coming out of the trough in the stern? Also, why does the bracket need to
be
> removed? Can the new cable be slipped into the bracket hole from the
> outside?
>
> <a href="/group/parkerboats/post?postID=qjuOK2zdHEgp07Pw4TCk-4BCgU6WaUUuCsAhLwl2A27l4TWNopvg-6MXXdSQ-LghIamhe09CDJHWCxU7kjMlfc1vZ68">parkerboats@yahoogroups.com</a>, "rangertimbo" kstreagle@e... wrote:
> >
> > I just did the replacement of the starboard Lenco on my 2120 this
evening.
> Here's what I
> > learned from the experience.
> >
> > First, even though the Lencos seem to burn out on us more often than
> Bennetts, they are
> > so easy to replace it's a breeze. The next one I do will only take me
> about 15 minutes. I
> > went slow this time in order to keep from making a mistake.
> >
> > The Lenco customer service will tell you to test whether the tab
actuator
> will work if you
> > bypass the control module. I made the mistake of cutting the wires that
> were under the
> > dash to find out. This can be better accomplished by pulling the slack
out
> of the wire in
> > the stern compartment. Lenco only provides about five feet of wire
> attached to the
> > actuator, so you will find a splice in the stern somewhere. Take this
> apart and do your test
> > there.
> >
> > Remove the plastic pins on each end of the actuator and unscrew the
> bracket on the boat.
> > I used a No.3 Phillips head driver inserted through the pin holes to
give
> me some leverage
> > in order to break the seal and remove the bracket. Don't forget to tie a
> stout line to the
> > wire connection that you severed so you can pull the new wire back into
> the boat, as you
> > cannot reach the inside of the transom where the wire passes through.
Tie
> the string to
> > the interior wires and twist them together enough so they won't
separate.
> Tape with
> > electrical tape just in case, but be careful not to create any extra
> thickness or it won't fit
> > through the hole.
> >
> > You will find it difficult to pull the wire through the hole because of
> the sealant that was
> > used. This also causes the wire insulation to have a tendency to move
> independently,
> > bunching up and causing problems. Working the wire back and forth in
small
> steps freed
> > up the wire from the sealant enough so that I could pull it out. Clean
all
> old sealant off the
> > transom with a razor blade and get the old stuff off of the mating
surface
> on the bracket.
> >
> > Put the bracket on the new wire in the correct orientation and reattach
> the pull string. Pull
> > most of the new wire back through but leave a few inches so you can coat
> them with
> > sealant. Make the wire connections on the interior and test. I use crimp
> connectors and
> > coat with liquid electrical tape, then tape them. Squirt sealant into
the
> hole around the
> > wire, into the screw holes and all over the back side of the bracket.
> Better to have too
> > much than to let water penetrate! Finish pulling the wire and reattach
the
> screws. Clean
> > up the sealant squeeze out and push the wires in side the boat back down
> out of sight.
> >
> > Perhaps I have neglected some important detail. But my new actuator
works
> and it's not
> > going to leak. I wish I could get to the back side of the transom to
coat
> it with sealant but
> > that ain't gonna happen! By the way, I used 4200 sealant. 5200 would be
a
> royal *&%#$@
> > to get off the next time. Silicone is not reliable enough below the
> waterline in my book.
> >
> > I know the wires are run differently in a 21SE but hopefully there is
> enough info here to
> > help.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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