Parker Yahoo Group Archived Messages

ID From Subject Date
709 parker25lc Re: Breakers vs. fuses 2/6/2006 14:10:00

Doug:

FUSE or BREAKER:
FWIW when I rewired my '92 Parker 25' Sport Cabin and I went with
fuses and here's why, to follow. But first remember rule #1 ... the
PRIMARY reason the fuse or breaker is there to protect the WIRING
from burning up and NOT to protect the DEVICE.

That said, I went with fuses soley due to their rating variety.
Let's say your device is 3 amps, you CANNOT get a 3 amp breaker, nor
any other breaker that is not of an amperage rating by 5 units, i.e.,
they're only sold as 5, 10, and 15 and up amps, going up in 5 amp
increments. So let's say your device calls for 7amp "slo blow"
protection. What are you going to do ... throw in a 5 or a 10 amp
device?

To tell the truth, I also had made up a custom switch panel for the
helm and found that making it with fuses was 30%-40% of the price it
would have been with breakers. Plus, on wiring systems I've wired
myself ... I have never blown a fuse in 20+ years of boating, so I
don't see any perceived benefit to breakers. There have been recalls
on breakers that were faulty and would stay energized when
tripped ... that'll never happen with a fuse.

That said, I keep a small plano tackle box handy with fuses ready to
be re-installed in a moment's notice should the need ever arise.

ISOLATORS/COMBINERS:
A few friends have installed the units from BEP Marine, see here:
<a href="http://www.bepmarine.com/">http://www.bepmarine.com/</a> and they found their products and service
1st rate. Some of their units are combination isolators, combiners,
battery switches, and monitoring systems - all in one! You could ask
them for assistance in your selection.

BATTERY MONITORING:
Consider a Heart Link 10 or 20 battery monitor, if you don't go the
route above ... it's akin to a fuel gauge for your battery, telling
you the amp draw and how many hours use left at that current drain.