96 Parker 1800 Tank, Stringers, Deck, Console Restoration

I have started my early spring project this year of installing an under the deck fuel tank. I have had this boat now for approx. a year and a half and I love the boat.
This boat originally did not have a fuel tank installed. The owner simply carried 2 - 6 gal portable tanks.
I have used the boat this way but I wanted a larger fuel tank to achieve additional fishing range.

I have removed the small center console and de-rigged everything for the job.
I proceeded to open the deck and found additional issues I need to address before the install of the new 34 gallon Aluminum tank. (on order)
I have found partially rotted stringers, rotted stringers and bulkheads. Luckily its only forward third of the deck.
I have attached some pics of the job.

What is interesting and maybe someone could shed some light on the subject is that the deck is solid and shows no signs of any rot, yet most of the bulkheads and stingers forward of the area are rotted. I don't see why.... rotting from the inside? Not a boat repair/building expert by no means, just a novice.

When removing the deck pieces, I noticed that Parker used many nails. In a 2 foot section the deck was nailed down with about 8 nails. Is this normal? I find this is in excess.

I made the cuts that you see in the picture assuming that the stringers and bulkheads there would not be rotted and I could add a few bulkhead supports and repair the partially rotted strings. But once opening and checking all parts, rot is what I found. :shock:

I could use some advise here but I believe I need to remove the rest of the deck and address the rotted pieces, remove and replace then build back.

Could any of you that have tackled this type of repair give me some advise?

Thanks! :roll:

I cant tell you exactly where the water got in. But from experience I can tell you its very hard to keep it out. and once in it usually stays in there.

It could of come from bilge water wicking up. Anchor locker drain, deck plates, deck bolts.wire and hose openings, improper winter storage,etc,etc. It could run along a wire or hose for a distance untill it dripped off.

Wet wood retains it strength for many years so unfortunatly most manufacturers did not worry what would rot in 20 or more years. Keeping wood dry in a boat is a difficult task. One small intrusion spot and the water will get in every rainstorm and stay in there forever.

Take a look at the sticky "21 SE Rehab". I am happy to answer questions if you want to call. 252-916-1470

Scott

After finding the rot, I decided to remove more of the deck to inspect.
I found additional rot. I then realized the job would to big for a first time novice.
I took the boat to Sprouts Fiberglass Repair in Northeast, MD. He came highly recommended.
He told me that you never know what you will find when you open up the deck of a boat. Chances are you will find some rot.
He ran the moisture meter on all parts of the boat. The transom and bilge area are bone dry as the deck. The top two thirds of the two center stringers are rotted, as the bulkheads are completely rotted. He did not recommend only replacing part of the two stringers and I agree.
Now the boat is in the shop waiting on time to repair. In hind sight......leave well enough alone!
I would have never detected the rot unless I opened the deck to install a new tank.
Oh well...live and learn! :roll:
I will post pics of the job as soon as I can.

Thanks,

Windknot,
I checked your project....nice job! Wish I had the time a patience. Excellent!

The result of the rot. Take a skill saw around the perimeter of the deck and remove it.
Here are the results courtesy of Sprout's Fiberglass, Northeast, MD!

New Marine Plywood Stringers and Bulkheads encapsulated with Fiberglass!

Coming Along Nicely!

In that last pix....... I see you did not extend yje rigging tube to the bilge area. Is that area where the cables going to be accessible?

If not...... You just created a MONSTER for rigging.

Sure it's easy now without the deck on..... That's how a lot of manufactures rig boats..... Befor they are all put together.

But after their together they still have to be worked on...... That looks like the perfect place for stuff to get hung up and chafed.

Also you learn after doing a few..... Put the BIGGEST rigging tubes in you can! There is always something you want to run after it's built. Larger rigging tubes takes the PITA factor out of the equation.


How is the fuel tank actually held in?

There are 4 welded tabs on the tank and they are bolted into the stringers.
Starboard spacers between the tank and stringers. The tank is suspended between the stringers and above the floor.
The cables extend to the bilge area and all is loose with nylon lines to feed cables if necessary in the future.

Good Luck with that mounting system.

Look's to be a 20 to 30gal fuel tank.....You didn't say?

As a static piece, I'd say you might be fine. But the problem is a boat is not a static display. It Moves.

And it moves a LOT, as in slamming thru waves. Round figure on gas weight is 6.5lbs per gal.

20gal = 130 - 30gal = 195lbs. With no kind of support underneath that puts a LOT of sheer loading on those 4 fasteners.

Foam under and around the tank?

Megabyte":1eg7bffo said:

Foam under and around the tank?

Click to expand...

That is why they used foam. It should also be the 4lb density, not the 2lb used for just flotation.

The problem with foam and fuel tanks is alum needs air to create it's protective coating. The bean counters at boat manufactures decided to skip the coating process and after years and water getting in there created the problems we all know exist today....... So the answer is..... Keep the water away from the alum that is not exposed to air.

We do this with coatings.... Coal tar epoxy has been used in the marine environment for a Long time. Cleaning and abrading the surface are key to it sticking well, just like any other coating.

Then there is a added touch when the tank is installed in a coffin. Cut the foam flush with the top of the tank and lay a 6in or 4in wide piece of fiberglass overlapping the coffin, bridging across the foam and onto the top of the tank.

This way, if any piehole leaks......You need the piehole to access the fittings and sending unit....... Water will lay on top of the tank and not get into the foam. A scupper at the top should be installed so that that water can drain to the bilge.


If a tank breaks loose at sea, it becomes a wrecking ball.

Guys,
No foam around tank,
I did not want moisture to get between tank and foam to cause corrosion.
It is a 30 Gallon tank.
The installer said that the tank is solid and will not move.
Hopefully he is correct!

Here is the deck after fareing!

All Finished!
New Gelcoat floor and interior, complete with new non skid!

Looks brand new !

All work done by:
:lol: Sprouts Fiberglass Repair
Bay Boat Works
Hances Point Rd.
Northeast, MD

Now I am looking for a Console for this boat.
Does anyone have any suggestions?

Make it large and have a full access door on the front side.

That will allow a large area for electronic's and it will allow easier access to wire it and maintain it.

Look for places that recycle marine stuff. There are several around, but their names escape me.