DaleH
FOUNDER of Classic Parker Forum
FYI - made this sketch up for a friend who's refurbishing a BW, replacing their brass drain tubes. I had once made up a fancy tool on a lathe (all hardened and everything too 
) to do this ... but, I loaned it to a friend at a local boatyard and he can't find it, grrrrrrrrr.
Anyway, here's a sketch on 'how to' make your own flaring tool using nuts and bolts from the hardware store, just go to a good hardware store! Just don't buy any nut of the thread size for the bolt you will use ... you need to find one (like a Nylok nut) that has a belled or rounded end a tad larger than the ID of the drain tube, so that it will partially force open the end of the drain tube, akin to flaring out the end of a trumpet.
Thought I'd just post this in case someone with a Pahka went to replace their scupper drain tubes. The critical dimension is cutting the tube, you need to cut it longer than you think, in order to allow for the bend allowance where the tube will turn and curl on itself. Goop it up well with 3M 5200 and have at it . Now me? I'd wet-out the core with thinned epoxy first !
) to do this ... but, I loaned it to a friend at a local boatyard and he can't find it, grrrrrrrrr.Anyway, here's a sketch on 'how to' make your own flaring tool using nuts and bolts from the hardware store, just go to a good hardware store! Just don't buy any nut of the thread size for the bolt you will use ... you need to find one (like a Nylok nut) that has a belled or rounded end a tad larger than the ID of the drain tube, so that it will partially force open the end of the drain tube, akin to flaring out the end of a trumpet.
Thought I'd just post this in case someone with a Pahka went to replace their scupper drain tubes. The critical dimension is cutting the tube, you need to cut it longer than you think, in order to allow for the bend allowance where the tube will turn and curl on itself. Goop it up well with 3M 5200 and have at it
. Now me? I'd wet-out the core with thinned epoxy first !
