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sea1skiff

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i have located a 18 ft cc, 1990 model, hull and trailer only for 2500. Pics look good but before i go for personal inspection could someone here advise me of the best way to determine if there are issues with the transom, fuel tank and deck that could turn into potential problems

thanks,

pete
 
The only way to know for sure is to have it surveyed by a professional.

If you want to do it yourself, use a plastic faced hammer and tap, tap, tap away while listening to the sound.

A sharp ringing sound is good. A dull hollow sound is not.
 
I'd also check for soft spots in the deck. Not a huge deal to repair but some of the older Parkers may have these issues as the underside sealing may not have been as complete as the current production. Price accordingly. Sounds like a pretty good deal if the hull is sound. It may not be cost effective to pay for a professional surveyor for a boat in this price range as you can see most potential problem yourself and there is no power plant to consider.
 
Burtona":2vpq7x13 said:
Sounds like a pretty good deal if the hull is sound. It may not be cost effective to pay for a professional surveyor for a boat in this price range as you can see most potential problem yourself and there is no power plant to consider.

Excellent point!
 
what about the fuel tank - that would be my biggest concern in that it is going to require removing the deck to get to it if it is bad. What is the normal lifespan on parker fuel tanks
 
sea1skiff":39er728h said:
what about the fuel tank - that would be my biggest concern in that it is going to require removing the deck to get to it if it is bad. What is the normal lifespan on parker fuel tanks

Depending on how the boat was maintained, the fuel tank could last longer than you or me. :)

If the tank concerns you, it can be inspected by removing the pickup flange and looking inside with a light and mirror. This is something that you can do. It could also be done by a professional who could also flush and clean the tank.

Is there any indication that the tank is leaking? (fuel in the bilge?)
If not, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Check the fuel lines and the tank flange gasket for cracks and leaks before suspecting the worst. Parker uses aluminum tanks which can last (almost) forever if they are cared for properly.

If you did have to remove and replace the tank, the deck would have to be cut and the tank removed, but it not a difficult thing to do. You could make it a DIY effort, or farm it out to a pro. It isn't difficult, and we can point you to a number of online sources of information on how to do the job if you wanted to go that route.

For the price, I don't think you can go wrong.
 
All good advice.

To do your own 'survey' you'd need the hammer/mallet as described, some flashlights, power screwdriver, inspection mirrors, 3M goop, and a SHARP pointy object like a fine awl or heavy needle used for rugs. Now, the 'penetration tests' only work if the seller allows you to do so. But if you can get away with it, and IF you do it, make sure to re-seal the area with 3M 5200.

NOTE: Rapping the hull only works if you have an idea where or where not a bulkhead lies. Meaning, it could sound solid ... but you might be whacking over a rib or stringer. So looking under the deck while someone else is 'rapping' can give you an idea of what or why? you might be hearing. Also make a CHECKLIST and go over the boat slowly ... from stem to stern. Write down your observations and list items to record, such as deck hardware, hatches, gunnels, transom inside, transom outside, etc., ... as this helps you focus on the individual 'trees' and not get ga-ga about your potential purchase of the 'forrest'. Catch what I mean?

FWIW I did my own survey on the '92 hull-only model 2520 I bought. My brother and I told the salesman to 'walk away' and we took off EVERY piece of hardware we could to find any evidence of water penetration or rot. We also secured everything back in place with 3M 4200 or 5200.

Open up EVERY PORT in the hull/deck and look/crawl in there with the mirrors, hammer, and lights as needed. I would also remove ANY inspection port frame in the deck and look at the edges for evidence of water penetration. Your finds may not prove the hull as un-buyable, but it might mean you can get it at a sweet discount. Also, ca$h counts in any offer ... have it right there!

Per NADA (which can be up to 100-200% 'low' on avg retail price - good for buyers, s$%ks for sellers) lists a '90 commercial and sport model. They list the comm model weight as 1150 pounds (VERY bare-boones hull)and avg retail of $1,360, while the sport model weighs 1450 pounds at an avg retail of $2,100. I'd assess the trailer as not being worth anything over a few hundred bucks. BUCvalue lists the hull-only as valued from $3,350 to 3,850! Also see pic below. 'Value' in this economy could mean anything, specially with a motivated seller.

FWIW when I sold my old boat to buy my Parker, NADA listed is as worth less than $2,600 while BUC had it worth more than $6,000. Since it was in mint shape, and turn-key ready to go, I sold it in less than two weeks and got $6K for it :D .

Thus I use BUC values when I am the seller and then use NADA when I'm the buyer ;) .
 

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WOW that is some good advice you guys are giving and the book price on boat info is great!!!!
 
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