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Sounds simple enough. That took care of it and it stays as set.

All I have to do is simply touch one of the buttons on the gauge and the back light comes on again, but then it times out it’s very dim. My question is, can I brighten these somehow because I’ve seen on the Internet where gauges can be brightened

I originally started out thinking I would use the two 1/2” spacers up top but as it turned out it was better to put one on the inside and one up top. Without the additional one under the canvas it was going to have a slight valley there which I didn’t like.

12.4 with the engine off, key on.

It's a brand new boat. 2022 motor, 20hrs.

The round ones supplied this year. 2022 engine. I don’t believe I can turn them on and not have them time out after 15seconds

Here’s some more. Should be wrapped up today

I ran my SE21 at night yesterday and the illumination of the two Yamaha LCD gauges really is disappointing. I can turn on lighting when any gauge button is touched but they don't stay on for more than a few seconds. Is there a way to increase the backlight or get the darn things to stay on?

Starboard sits atop the aluminum. Top of aluminum not finished. Cable clams to go on top of canvas. Bottom of aluminum which will show from underneath is finished. Double layer of 10 x 10 Starboard will go between done and canvas. Before I poke any holes through the canvas I am going to work any...

OK. Pictures coming soon. The Seaview raised mount and modular plate have been scrapped because I don't want to move my nav./all-around light. I am fabricating a piece of 1/2" thick aluminum 10" wide by 27" long to span the factory cross members. The aluminum has also been radiused on the ends...

I have decided to forego the Seaview modular raised mount as I dont want to move the all-around light and keep it simple. Do any of you have your cables coming through a cable clam(s) outside the area of the dome? I'm concerned about the sun baking at the cables. Garmin domes are not very...

That layout template requires the use of a 9/16 drill bit on the corners of the opening. That's a crazy big hole to be drilling through that acrylic without cracking and tearing it up even if its brought up one drill size at a time.. I think I'll possibly drill much smaller take it all the way...

Thx.

I am under the impression that the gloss black dashboard on my 21SE is an acrylic material. I am going to have to cut to open the hole up to accept the 12" unit. What have you guys used to cut the dash plate? Any problem encountered such as cracking or chipping? With past projects I have...

I have some stainless steel leveling washer sets left over from a previous boat I did some similar work to. The flat 1/2" plate can be securely bolted to the 1/4" aluminum frame flats without stressing the flat stock. McMaster Carr P/N 91944A430

Weld, weld, weld. Sorry but there are a hell of a lot better ways.

Actually I got tired of the two words "weld it"

It's standard Garmin radar data cable (fancy CAT 5E) with an adapter which can be removed as well as a power cable. I have accessed the T-Top frame on the port side to mimic what the factory has done on the starboard side for nav. light, spreader light, VHF cable, and front spreader light (spare...

Measured to the outside of the two flats welded in from the factory it is 27" I took a digital angle gauge, zeroed it at the center of the top, and checked the angle of the flats. They follow the curve contour somewhat with the right one being about 3-1/2 degrees and the left one is around 4-1/2...