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Did a wire break off on that center post on the sender? When it’s that green, you pretty much have a corrosion insulated jacket on the post.

This is a smart solution to a very typical problem on boats. This is especially relevant now that boats have such high electrical demands. One question, If the outboard has two outputs for charging batteries, could you just use two entirely isolated switches/ systems, one for house and one for...

Open up all the plates, either pry off or screw off and see what you can see. Get ready for it to be ugly. One of them outside the console or within it should be the pickup, sender and/ or fill and vent.

Check the ground on the tank and the wire at the sender. Clean them up nice and shiny and torque down just enough. Not too much.

Thanks for the compliment. And yes, I have done two trips with the new tank and all the other items. First run was 14 miles and second run was 37 miles. A big plus was a isenglass console wind screen. Also the two AGM batteries ran the bait tank all day. Here are two photos. One early morning...

I would pull that bilge pump and float switch. Clean up everything and dry it out. Then put a piece of paper in there and let it sit for 24 hrs. You may be able to see if it’s a drip from above, like at the hatch edge or if it’s at the bilge pump base like warthog and Brent mentioned. Either...

I think you be in good shape. That infill hopefully bonded well and maybe even dovetailed into the void. FYI, The brackets need to be torqued down evenly so when they load up, they will distribute the load over the entire transom. The brackets wants to be a 100% extension of the boat. Follow a...

Does the transom have a metal (aluminum) set of brackets or struts that tie the transom to the stringers? Outboard brackets put a lot of load onto the transom and typically the transom is reinforced. This may reduce the requirement of the fixed area.

Gorgeous. That fuel price is good. Nice boat.

I have and it’s a disaster. Most workers are lazy and want to take the short way out which makes problems for everyone else. Some have no solutions. You should see electricians and roofers these days.

What’s the depth of the void? From inner skin to outer skin? That could be 1.5” to 2”? I would be concerned with the dead load and dynamic load path eccentricity, especially with load cycling over the lifespan of the boat, not to mention a thermal cycle on a non homogenous assemble could...

I’d ask for a completely new transom. There is no way they could have missed that at the factory.

Wow, is that a big void between the inside and outside layers? Or did the layers delaminate?

I just did the exact same thing. It’s plug and play and fits in the existing hole saw opening of the switch.

I use two coats of prime - kote epoxy from interlux prior to the interlux perfection with anti skid added. It’s a high build underlayment that acts as a filler and bonder.

I see the Lenco control box. It has a heavy sheathed wire that goes to the tab control buttons. Make sure that connector isn’t broken off at the buttons. They break easily.

I do remember twin boats omc rigged without counter rotating and it wasn’t even an issue. At least my neighbors didn’t care or know. I. Eat steering was a little more difficult. This was early eighties 25 makos with twin 150’s. Long time ago.

I replaced a controller and an actuator yesterday. Buy the cylindrical controller and then plug it in to power, ignition power, port connector and starboard connector. You ahould be good. Also check all your grounds. House and starter battery needs a common ground in since there is an ignition...

If you need a good recommendation for a metal fabricator., I just had this stainless steel bow rail made and installed. San Pedro CA. High quality, Reasonable prices and quick turnaround.

Looks like the perfect boat.