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Welcome back! Nice ride. Is that a bow thruster joystick I spy?

What’s your location?

Most likely a calibration issue with the Lowrance. I’m interested in how you’re getting a “gallon” reading off a traditional sender. Usually you’ll only get that from a flow sensor, which measures the fuel used and deducts it from the amount of fuel you tell the MFD is in the tank.

This is a super common issue with the 18s, and is not an issue as long as the crack doesn’t accumulate water, and doesn’t expand. I’d recommend sealing it up immediately with a quality marine sealant, and monitoring the transom for any signs of rot. I’m guessing the repair quote is to replace...

Cool rig! You’ve got the new style console, so she’s probably in the 96-97 year range. I’d plan on getting rid of the bow rail, looks bent up anyway. Very cool little boat and probably the biggest 17’ on the market. As far as the EPA logo, it it’s a decal, get a 3M eraser wheel that chucks...

I think you made the right choice. Everything I’ve seen with the new two-piece Parker models has been a disappointment. I’ve yet to see any improvement over the old models with the new ones. You may end up with one of the most valuable 1801s that exists; the last ones before they were turned...

@Mpellet , how accurate do you find the SST maps to be? I can see that being worth its weight in gold for offshore canyon trolling, if it’s fairly up to date and accurate. Is there any sort of penalty for putting a pause on the account, other than just not being able to use it?

That’s gonna look sick!!

The relays should function as long as there’s control power, correct? On my installation, the windlass power cables run from the battery switches at the stern, with a resettable breaker right after the switch. The control power for the dash switch, going to the relays at the bow, comes from...

I’d delete the line over the “e”, and leave the line that’s attached to the “swoop” over the “a” but get rid of the little part that looks like it attaches the “a” to the line. If that makes sense.

Operationally, no. The deeper the better, it’ll keep the prop from coming out of the water in chop. The limiting factor is usually how long of a shaft will fit in your available space.

I work in a segment of the maritime industry in a fleet where we operate vessels that were built to both USN standards, and commercial standards. I can confidently state that there are USN-built ships out from the 80s and 90s that are in WAY better shape than the commercial-built ones from the...

Beautiful boats, both of you. Where are you guys located?

Just repowered my 28 year old 2530 👍 Pretty good testament to the quality of these boats that there’s quite a lot of them still going strong after three decades.

The only one I’ve found is the Lifeline 2700T. GP27, 900 CCA/ over 1000 MCA. I have two for my F150 starting batteries, they work great, no issues.

Can’t tell you if it’s the stock one, but I installed these on my 1700 and they’re great. Very smooth, very stout, a well made product.

You’re going through a lot of boats recently, dawg.

Yup. I got one of their last mounts for my 2530 project in 2021. The Scanstrut stainless mounts are nice as well, but they don’t have the built in angle, so a wedge is needed.

Aren’t you currently selling a 2530?

Nice work. I think you’re going to love that bench seat.