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Great post. Very detailed. After looking through your numbers, I almost wonder if 17" might be a bit better since it appears that you are hitting the rev limiter of the engine And you are right ..... Ken is great to deal with

I think Jim is "spot-on". I wouldn't start any lower than 135 and you can always go down if needed

Thankfully, Parker still uses wood stringers, bulkheads, floors and transom. Wood is a stronger, more durable building material than any of the synthetics. And good luck getting a screw to hold in NidaCore or even Coosa. With wood, you simply need to seal any hole you drill into the material

https://www.amazon.com/SeaLux-Marine-SUPPORT-Stainless-Cabinet/dp/B077Q8F24X Use a spring instead. Much more reliable. Simple. Does the same job.

"Keep the curvy-side down"

Not unless you also replace the bracket with one specific built for a 30" shaft motor.

It would need to be VERY good deal on the new Honda 250 30" to warrant such a modification. Or maybe you are having major problems with the 25" shaft and powerhead getting routinely "dunked"? I run a 25" shaft on a 23 DV and the original Stainless Marine bracket and don't have any problems...

Additionally, it is a good feeling having that electronic tether on your wrist during storms, heavy seas, night operations or even just trolling. You can pair up to 4 people onto 1 unit so if the kids fall out, the engine will automatically shut-off.

I purchased a Fell MOB system in February 2019. The system gets used every time the boat is in gear. It works exactly as advertised. I did have 1 issue though ...... this past summer I was 80 miles offshore, cruising at 3700 rpm and the motor cut-off. I thought it was strange but maybe I hit...

Next time put some Dawn dish soap all over the 2 hoses as you are pulling them under the deck and up the chase.

I think you'll need to cut open the chase on the port side of the hull to pull the 1.5" fill hose under the deck. It's not that big of a deal to cut the face off the chase, pull the hose then reattach the face and paint to match.

Its a 3/4" plywood wood floor with 2 layers of glass on top (with polyester resin) and 1 layer of CSM on the bottom of the plywood

If the goal is greater fuel economy, why not run the F150 at 800 rpm making the same speed as a 9.8hp engine at 4000 rpm and burning the same fuel amount per hour? Fuel economy is at your hand already. It just depends how much fuel you want to trade for speed.

Great rig. I own the same setup. I fish regularly 50-150 miles offshore and see 2.6+ mpg in real-world fishing conditions and have a 155 gallon tank (155 used to be standard in the 23; now the 126 is standard as I recall). If you need the range, you should be able to spec the boat with the...

Try trimming the motor down. Sounds like you have it trimmed up (that's what you said as well). The boat shouldn't be "bouncing around" in relatively light seas. You should be able to easily take that boat 50 miles offshore (or more) without anyone getting sea-sick in reasonable seas. It's...

In today's market, anything less than $30k is probably a pretty good deal as long as the boat/motor/trailer are in pretty good condition. That said, 2 years ago, the package you describe would have been priced at $20-24k.

I guy who built my tank (different boat) said that in most tanks, 93% of the total volume is usable. I've never tested that limit but felt it was a good rule.

If you have the old windshield, you can use it as a template to bend the new one. If not, simply use a straight edge (such as a 2x4") to bend the plexiglass on the line you want. A simple heat gun is all you need, and a couple of clamps. I needed a new windshield on the 23 DVCC ..... I...

Any place that sells sheets of plastic in your town. Take the old one off the boat. Trace the pattern onto the new plexiglass. Cut with a fine-tooth saw. Sand and polish the edges. Bend the corners with a heat gun. Easy peasy.

I think that SIM Yamaha is the sole-source here in the USA