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Thats a sharp looking design, I like that. Is that a stock leaning post or was it custom made? I'm wanting one!

wejohns, good info on the thicknesses. 3/16" seems to be the default size. As a metal guy I guess I was more interested in the alloy aluminum you fabricate from and why. Is the 5052-H32 most common for tanks or are there other grades and tempers that would work as well? Thanks

Is this the typical alloy you would use or was it an upgrade and/or cheaper than what you normally use?

Yours is different...my path was for an 1800. But I see your challenge. What's under the pie plate? I started in the console.

I took Pelagic's earlier advise and removed the side access door, which made it much easier to get my torso inside the console.

Console to the pie plate, then pie plate toward the fill fitting. Starting inside the console, I took the 4 screws holding the plastic cover and rubber boot assembly off, lifted the whole assembly out of the way (with all the wiring still in it), and had a nice big opening in the deck to start...

I used a piece of 1/8" soft copper tubing as a snake, then pulled a piece of parachute cord with the tubing... took 5 minutes. Soft enough to bend and not tear anything but stiff enough to push. I still have not pulled the duplex but I feel like the toughest part is done. Hope I'm not mistaken...

There are a few here I believe. Of the 3478 miles of Maine coastline, what area do you operate?

Yes it will...these tanks are not welded on the inside, so a crevice exists on the backside of the external corner welds(inside the tank). This is a great spot to start a fatigue crack. I think the risk of something going wrong is not worth the benefit. Also, your not going to find a check valve...

In stock? with the snaps in the right spot? I wouldn't think so but maybe I'm wrong. Coastal Canvas Manufacturing | (coastalcanvasmfg.com). I believe these people are still doing the OEM cushions for Parkers. If not, pretty sure you can still get what your looking for here anyway. I got a whole...

PIA but not exactly impossible. The galvanizing is mainly on the surface of the metal. And yes its not good to breathe when its hot. You can grind or burn off the galvanizing and weld normally but you won't have the same corrosion resistance in that area...even if you apply a cold galvanizing...

Some companies may have what's called a PMI(Positive Material Identification) gun, and they are great for a lot of metals. Problem is, most guns wont identify carbon steels, only alloys. If possible, get a material specification from the manufacturer, this would be ideal. Sometimes even the best...

A little bit of advice, be aware of what your welding to...it would be wise to identify what alloy your welding to and what filler metal you would then weld with. A good weld shop should do this.

Excellent second choice!

Not likely. If you had an overfill incident and that's when the smell started, your smell is probably from the overfill. If you had holes in your tank, I would expect that you would have smelled it earlier. The fact that you pressure tested the tank is valuable info.

Its what I have...97-1800. Just go heavier and longer on the chain

Excellent! Thanks for the info.

Wart, If you run a 6 AWG from the batteries, what do you do for the splice connection from a 6 AWG to the 10 AWG leads? I've seen 10/12 - 8 connectors but not to a 6?

Which yard are you using if you don't mind me asking? I didn't find any Suzuki dealers in the coastal NH area. I also was looking at a Suzuki re-power.

That being said...Minn Kota supplies their 24V/80lb units with 3' leads of 10 AWG. Not sure what comes with the 36V units.