Advice on buying 2010 Parker 1801

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yrog

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First, I'm new to boating. The boat I'm trying to buy will be my first boat. I have limited boat experience but I'd like to take my family of 4 (kids 5 & 7 years old) out to go fishing vs staying only on shore.

I've been offered a new 2010 Parker 1801 with a 2010 Yamaha 115 Hp (4-stroke) and Magic Tilt Aluminum trailer for $25,285. The Parker comes with recessed cooler & cushion, minini top w/taller stern light. Standard 3 years warranty.

I'm also looking at a Sea Hunt Triton 188 for $27,349 (include freight and rigging)--not 100% sure what that means yet. That price includes a Yamaha F115 motor (4-stroke), Magic Tilt Aluminum trailer, hydraulic steering, reversible cooler helm seat, dual batteries and switch and bimini top. This price also includes an additional 2 years warranty on the Yamaha motor making it a total of 5 years.

I'm not sure which boat to buy. I think the Parker is probably a good deal but how does that compare to the Sea Hunt? Also, is there a difference between the Parker 2010 and the 2011 or 2012? Any help you can provide would be great.
 
I have a 2007 Parker 1801 and LOVE IT! It's definitely the cream of the crop for 18ft center consoles in my opinion.... very versatile. I fish this boat on the flats, in inlets, out in the ocean and off Montauk point (always on the right days, it's only 18ft). It's very stable, the 115 pushes it well and it's small enough for one person to launch off a trailer.
 
I have a 1999 Parker 1801 with 115 Yamaha 2 stroke that I've owned since 2000. I often launch off my trailer solo with great ease and I always get compliments on it. Amazing. My buddy who owns the local Grady/Parker dealership is always busting my chops and asking me when I am going to buy a bigger boat. The answer is never. I launch out of the Niantic River in SE CT. From here I travel to Long Island, Plum Gut, the Race, Fishers Island. Obviously there are days when the seas are too rough for an 18 footer, but if it's that bad out, I'm not going out anyway. I also tow my family behind the boat on an inner tube without any problem. If I ever have to repower, I think I will opt for the 4 stroke. It wasn't available until 2000-2001, I believe. Good luck. I love my Parker.

Dave
 
My 2005 Parker 1801 with Yamaha F115 was my first boat. I found it to be a perfect size boat to begin learning boat handling skills. The Parker has been very versatile and enjoyed by my family. We use it primarily for fishing and cruising the Maine bays and near coast. Construction is straightforward and rock solid. I can't think of another 18' I would rather have.

I believe the last real change in the boat design was in the 1990's when the model designation went from a 1800 to an 1801. So, there is no significant change year to year. More a matter of what options are chosen when the boat was built.

Dan

P.S. - Whatever boat you choose, I would encourage you to take a Coast Guard Auxillary class to get started in a lifetime of safe boating.
 
I don't have any statistics to back it up, but I think you will find the Parker will hold it's looks and resale or trade in value much better than the Sea Hunt.
 
All, thanks for your advice! After doing more research I think the Parker is definitely the way to go. I've not found anyone who wished they didn't by a Parker boat, if anything, they wished they bought a bigger Parker boat. I'm scheduled to buy the boat on Monday or Tuesday of this week.

The Parker 1801, with motor, weighs about 2,400 lbs; my vehicle can tow 3,500 lbs. I can buy a trailer that has a 3,500 lb weight capacity (I believe it comes with breaks) or on that has a 2,800 lbs capacity (without breaks). Both trailers are from the same company, aluminum and single axle. Any advice on what trailer capacity I should buy knowing that the boat and motor weights 2,400 lbs?
 
I think a single axel without brakes are fine for the 1801. That's what I used with the one I had a few years ago and never had issues stopping. Brakes around salt water are a major pain. When they work they will help stopping but you will be working on them every year in my experience.
 
I owned an 1801 for several years, with a single axel, no breaks. Granted the farthest I ever trailored it as 10miles or so, I do not think you need breaks.
 
1950 lbs hull dry weight for 1801
414 lbs F115
372 lbs 60 USG fuel
55 lbs Battery group 24
100 lbs Boat Stuff (anchor & rode, electronics, tackle, and all the stuff stuffed into the console)
-----
2891 lbs fishing weight
500 lbs trailer weight
-----
3391 lbs GVW

Refer to this link, http://www.roadkingtrailers.com/brakelaws.htm, for your location to see if you are legally required to have trailer brakes. (Disclaimer - you should validate with your state DMV.)

If you require brakes and the trailer has drums, then my advice is replace with Kodiak disk brakes when the drums rust out.
 
yrog is the 2010 new or used? if it's new you can get the extra 2yrs warnt I bought a 9.9ht yahm kicker, dealer is waiting until March to register it. If you are buying from a private seller different story. Parker is what i would buy also trailer brakes.
 
The boat I owned before my Parker 2520 was a 17 Dusky CC.
The boat sat on a single axle trailer (no brakes) and I towed it with a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Classic.

I routinely trailered that boat between Annapolis and Reedville VA as well as to the CBBT (eastern shore of VA) to fish.
I have to say that before I found and bought my 2520, I was absolutely prepared to add disc brakes to the trailer.

On one trip to the CBBT, I had a traffic light change on me quick and that boat pushed me right into the middle of a busy intersection.
Lucky for me, the people at the light saw what was happening and did not simply pull out when they got the green.

I was very lucky that day!

When I got home I upgraded the Cherokee to a set of Stainless Steel (brand) drilled and slotted front rotors and a set of Hawk ceramic performance pads.
In the back, I installed a set of AirLift air spring bags to keep everything level under load.
The only thing I did not do was to install brakes on the trailer, and that was only because I upgraded to a bigger boat before getting the work done.

Bottom line... for your safety, and the safety of those around you, get the brakes.

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Occasionally I would pull my 1801 with the Cherokee I passed to my son. It had no problem pulling but stops took some planning and made me ultra vigilant about maintaining following distances.
 
Check with your local Motor vehicle dept on the weight regs for trailers and the need for brakes. The the fact that you trailer with a Hummer or a Hyundai has no impact on the regulations for the trailer.
 
All, thanks for all your help. You guys have definitely made it easier for me and my family to start our boating experience on the right track.

Wajski - the boat I'm buying is new. The dealer didn't say anything about the 2 years added warranty but I'll be sure to ask.

Bboondoggle - thanks for the load calculation, I've decided to go with the bigger trailer.

Again, thanks!
 
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