TheOtherLine
Well-known member
After busting my a#@ twice by slipping on a wet cabin floor, I knew I needed to add something to the floor to avoid a serious accident.
I had thought about putting in the rubber mats, or indoor outdoor carpeting but I really didn't want anything that I would have to remove to clean so, I decided to just apply the non skid.
It was actually pretty easy and cost about $75.
Here's how I did it, with the advice of several of you...
1) I outlined the area to be finished, leaving a 1" border around all edges. I used Dale's trick of using a small block of wood to follow the contours of the edges, around the seat bases etc., I drove a staple into the side of the wood and dropped a pencil in there to keep the angle and depth consistent. By putting your thumb on the pencil and your other fingers on the block, you can outline with one hand. I found that easier than trying to glide the block with one hand and pencil in the other.
Then, using 80 grit sandpaper and electric sander, sand down the area to be done, just enough to take the top finish off.
2) I then used 3" painters tape to cover the area I did not want any material on. I brought the edge of the tape about 1/4 inch inside the pencil mark and then over laid another piece of green 3M tape about 1/8 inch over the top of that. The reason I did that is because the gelcoat guy, where I bought my materials, told me that if there was any leaking of material under the tape, or "strings" of GC as you pull the tape off, the blue tape would help catch any excess GC. He suggested using a 2" pie crust roller to press the leading edges down firmly and I did.
3) Next step was to clean the surface with acetone or isopropyl alcohol .
4) Next, mix the GC with the sand. The whole floor can be done with 1 quart of GC. I used a stock, off the shelf color, called Dusky white. It matches the color of the door leading to the berth. It' a little bit lighter in color than the rest of the interior but it is very close. You use 4oz of sand by volume, per quart. Then add 15.5 cc of hardener,
5) Time to roll it on. I had a 9" and 3" roller, short nap. Used the 3" to get around the tight spots and the 9" for the wider areas. Roll parallel to tape. Don't roll material "into" the leading edge of tape.
6) The GC guy told me I had about 15 minutes before the material hardens and it was very important to remove the tape before the GC kicked.
I started in the corners, where the side facing seat boxes are and worked towards the middle. Then came straight down the middle towards the drain hole by the door.
I was done applying in 10 minutes and began removing the tape. It came off easily with no leaks or strings.
I was afraid that the sand would just settle to the bottom of the paint tray but that didn't happen. I bought a cheap 3' paint brush to "dimple' any areas that might seem smoother than the rest of the areas but I didn't have to use it.
All in all, I have to say it turned out very well and hopefully I can run into the cabin if necessary and not worry about slipping.
I had thought about putting in the rubber mats, or indoor outdoor carpeting but I really didn't want anything that I would have to remove to clean so, I decided to just apply the non skid.
It was actually pretty easy and cost about $75.
Here's how I did it, with the advice of several of you...
1) I outlined the area to be finished, leaving a 1" border around all edges. I used Dale's trick of using a small block of wood to follow the contours of the edges, around the seat bases etc., I drove a staple into the side of the wood and dropped a pencil in there to keep the angle and depth consistent. By putting your thumb on the pencil and your other fingers on the block, you can outline with one hand. I found that easier than trying to glide the block with one hand and pencil in the other.
Then, using 80 grit sandpaper and electric sander, sand down the area to be done, just enough to take the top finish off.
2) I then used 3" painters tape to cover the area I did not want any material on. I brought the edge of the tape about 1/4 inch inside the pencil mark and then over laid another piece of green 3M tape about 1/8 inch over the top of that. The reason I did that is because the gelcoat guy, where I bought my materials, told me that if there was any leaking of material under the tape, or "strings" of GC as you pull the tape off, the blue tape would help catch any excess GC. He suggested using a 2" pie crust roller to press the leading edges down firmly and I did.
3) Next step was to clean the surface with acetone or isopropyl alcohol .
4) Next, mix the GC with the sand. The whole floor can be done with 1 quart of GC. I used a stock, off the shelf color, called Dusky white. It matches the color of the door leading to the berth. It' a little bit lighter in color than the rest of the interior but it is very close. You use 4oz of sand by volume, per quart. Then add 15.5 cc of hardener,
5) Time to roll it on. I had a 9" and 3" roller, short nap. Used the 3" to get around the tight spots and the 9" for the wider areas. Roll parallel to tape. Don't roll material "into" the leading edge of tape.
6) The GC guy told me I had about 15 minutes before the material hardens and it was very important to remove the tape before the GC kicked.
I started in the corners, where the side facing seat boxes are and worked towards the middle. Then came straight down the middle towards the drain hole by the door.
I was done applying in 10 minutes and began removing the tape. It came off easily with no leaks or strings.
I was afraid that the sand would just settle to the bottom of the paint tray but that didn't happen. I bought a cheap 3' paint brush to "dimple' any areas that might seem smoother than the rest of the areas but I didn't have to use it.
All in all, I have to say it turned out very well and hopefully I can run into the cabin if necessary and not worry about slipping.
