Bottom paint process ................

[Hannibal]

One of the areas I was looking to address on my boat was the existing bottom paint. It came (to me) with existing black bottom paint. While in general decent condition (adequate coverage/thickness) - the overall asthetics are bothersome. There are some wear marks under the rollers - likely due to improperly working rollers (which would corrected when boat is taken off trailer). There are some minor knicks and fading taking place due to age.

I've inquired into media/soda blasting and have been given quotes in the $600-$800 range for ONLY the removal portion. I've also been given a quote for sanding the existing bottom down and repainting for around $1100-$1200.

It's a sore spot for me but not worth $1200 at this time. I have other things that could use the attention.

However, I am curious if the boat would require all the prep work? The prices I've requested have been based on my scope (removal and repainting) so that's what I've been presented with. Being that I am simply looking to make the bottom look nice (more uniform in coloration, etc) - do I necessarly have to do an elaborate sanding operation in advance?

While I am guessing that SOME sanding would be required to ensure adhesion - do I need to remove all the existing? Could I do a rough sanding followed by painting over the existing?

Again, I am simply looking for a cleaner finish then what is existing. I know what the paint itself costs so the rest of the cost in the quotes is general labor. And even in discussions, most of that is in the prep work I was requesting.

I guess the question here is: What is needed?

Keep in mind, it's an older boat. While I am not looking to do anything overly "cheap" by any means, I am also not looking to invest a ton of money either. I am simply looking for an economical approach that will solve the problem.

Your thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[TimC2520]

The first thing you need to do is to find out (IF possible), what type of paint is on there (hard or ablative). Anyway you can find out from the previous owner(s) ?

 

[DaleH]

The first thing you need to do is to find out (IF possible), what type of paint is on there (hard or ablative).

Simple ... take a rag and rub it against the paint. To be sure, rub the SAME spot again with another section of rag. If both areas are covered with a chalky dust with the paint color on them, chances are it is an albative paint. When rubbing an epoxy-based (hard paint) you'll see some growth and other debris on the rag, but not the paint color to any degree. Ablative will chalk off like rubbing your hand down a chalkboard covered in colors!

Also see my post here for more info on bottom paint removal or touch up: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=11371

 

[HOTPURSUIT]

What do you plan on doing with the boat, are you going to trailer it or put it in a slip.

 

[Hannibal]

What do you plan on doing with the boat, are you going to trailer it or put it in a slip.

Trailer. Occasional occurences where it might sit in the drink for a couple of days in a row.

 

[gw204]

If it's in real bad shape (lots of flaking and bumpiness), I would want to get it all off and start fresh. Try some EZ-Off over cleaner (the one with the blue cap) and a power washer. No joke.. Then sand and apply an inexpensive hard paint since you just want to make it look better.

 

[HOTPURSUIT]

If you do a quick sand and paint it will be just that, if the paint gets too thick with too many layers the worse it chips and the bigger the job will be stripping the paint in the future. If you want a good looking job you can be proud of it takes alot of work. If you have the extra money soda blasting is a lifesaver, sanding or stripping bottom paint is a nasty job. If you decide to save the bread and do it yourself with a sander I have one tip for you, get your self a full face respirator and not just those $2.00 dust masks, You can pick one up at graingers for about $150.00, it won't make the job enjoyable but at least it makes it alot more comfortable and keeps all that junk out of your lungs and eyes.... its a lonely job, because beleive me all your freinds will be busy that day!!! Good luck Mike

 

[Pboettger]

I will be in the same boat soon (sorry, pardon the pun). I have a 1990 25 ft CC that I will soon be ready to paint. The existing paint is an intact hard coat, but is on top of many visible patchy layers and scratched off pretty bad in a few places. I am definitely not going with ablative paint, as I had a 21 that I left in the water for 4-5 months per year and had barnacles half way through the 2nd year, after going to the trouble and expense of removing the old coat down to the hull and putting a nice barrier coat followed by the ablative paint.

I am thinking of going down to the bare hull on this one, then re-painting with 2 coats of csc vs a barrier coat and 1 coat of csc. Which course is advisable in my situation, bearing in mind she'll be sitting in the water for 5-6 months duration each year?

 

[DaleH]

I am definitely not going with ablative paint, as I had a 21 that I left in the water for 4-5 months per year and had barnacles half way through the 2nd year, after going to the trouble and expense of removing the old coat down to the hull and putting a nice barrier coat followed by the ablative paint.

Uhhhhhhhhhhhh sorry (not really ), but your CHOICE of paint type has ZERO impact to whether or not your hull had barnacles. Blame a poor paint quality - sure, but type? No way. Water conditions, seasonal changes, freshwater runoff from rains into the salt, plus location and exposure of your slip to sun, wind, and current can ALL have a major impact to your boat.

I've seen boats only 2 away from each other, using the SAME paint ... one with a clean hull and the other dirty as all get out! What was the difference? One hull was neutral to the day sun and somewhat blocked, while the other took it on the full beam, plus it was on an eddy of the current, so there was less running current to "wash" the hull as she sat un-used.

FWIW I prefer a 1st or base coat of epoxy-based barrier coat or a hard anti-fouling paint followed by a good quality ablative. Put the base coat, via the barrier coat "gray' or another color AF base coat, on that is different than your top coat. Say you want black for your final top coat and you used red or gray for the base coat(s). If/when you see that "other" color through the black ... you know your top coat is thin in that area.

IMHO barrier coats on modern made 'quality' boats, like Parkers, only give you a "feel good" result at best. As remember, frp boats can blister from water from within the hull too ... and a Linwood/Robin-made Parker boat ain't gonna blister ... no way, no how ...

 

[Pboettger]

Thanks Dale. I like the different colors thing. It makes perfect sense.

Peter

 

[Parkerman]

I know I have posted pretty much this same topic and I STILL have my deteriorating black bottom paint (I trailer). I have often thought about stripping off all of my paint but I have been thinking about re-painting using a bottom paint in a color similar to the Parker gel coat color. Has anyone ever thought about or tried this?

 

[HOTPURSUIT]

FWIW I prefer a 1st or base coat of epoxy-based barrier coat or a hard anti-fouling paint followed by a good quality ablative. Put the base coat, via the barrier coat "gray' or another color AF base coat, on that is different than your top coat. Say you want black for your final top coat and you used red or gray for the base coat(s). If/when you see that "other" color through the black ... you know your top coat is thin in that area.

Dale is right on the money as usual, this process works great, especially when you use a high quality multi seasonal paint. Sometimes you can get away with a couple of years of just touching up the water line and running gear if you are in good water. But one other factor for ablative paints to perform well is you must run the boat, can't let them sit !!!!

 

[Megabyte]

I know I have posted pretty much this same topic and I STILL have my deteriorating black bottom paint (I trailer). I have often thought about stripping off all of my paint but I have been thinking about re-painting using a bottom paint in a color similar to the Parker gel coat color. Has anyone ever thought about or tried this?

They do make bottom paint in white, but I can tell you this... it won't give the results that you are looking for.

There is a boat in my marina with an ablative white bottom that was hauled recently for some work.
The portion of the boat that was submerged was still (mostly) white, while the sides that were exposed to the air were light green.
Bottom paint contains copper. Wet copper and expose it to air, and it'll turn green.

I don't think that is the look you were going for.

 

[DaleH]

... and I STILL have my deteriorating black bottom paint (I trailer). I have often thought about stripping off all of my paint but I have been thinking about re-painting using a bottom paint in a color similar to the Parker gel coat color.

FWIW I know someone who does nothing but trailer their boat and they painted the bottom with black enamel, $30 to cover it. It is a hard paint and whenever it looks funky from slime, he just powerwashes it.

It is not what I would do ... but versus the option of expen$ive soda blasting followed by labor intensive wet sanding ... it is an option to "improve the finished look" ... but might hurt re-sale value, less one could simply add an AF paint right on top of the enamel coat I would inagine.