Bridge Clearance for 1801 Question

[skunk]

I am seriously considering buying a used 1801. The problem I have is that I live on creek with adequate water depth but low fixed bridges (about 4' at mean high tide). Can anyone please provide the bridge clearance of an 1801 (assuming no electronics console and no windsheild/grab rail)? Basically, a measurement from the waterline to the top of steering wheel or throttle is probably what I need. Thanks for your help.

-Mark

 

[BoatGirl]

With full tank and no one onboard it is around 56"

 

[JamesTX]

Wow 4' is really going to limit your choices. I guess it might be possible to modify the console but I am not sure that would be cost effective.

You may have to consider a lower profile bay type hull.

 

[Bryan 2530]

I keep my 2530 behind a bridge that has 61" at dead high tide.

When all is said and done I only have a bout 5-6 hours during the day when I can't get out. Just need to plan you trips, and have a smaller boat. :mrgreen:

I have a 15 whaler and 20 seacraft for those days I just have to be out there. :lol:

 

[skunk]

Thank you for the responses. I really want a Parker so I may have to take my chances with modifying the console/and or timing my trips with the tide. On the topic of modifying consoles, is the electronics console removable via screws or does the glass have to be cut? Additionally, it appears the console primarily consists of two parts (a lower male with an upper female). If this is the case, can the male be cut down, say 4", and then rescrew the female to effectively lower the console. I realize the lower portion tapers in but I assume the resultant gap can be filled with starboard and longer screws be used.

-Mark

 

[Bryan 2530]

"then rescrew the female"

:shock:


:lol:

Does this help?

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=9236&p=65498

 

[RagTop]

You're probably familiar with consoles that fold forward (my old Edgewater had one)...this may be a fairly simple modification (cut and hinge your existing console)...or not, just spitballin' here.

Also, I recall as a kid taking my old man's boat up a creek to get to the smoothest water for skiing. To do this we had to (unlawfully) venture under a low bridge that marked the boating boundary of the reservoir. When the boat wouldn't fit, we nosed in and pushed up on the bridge (lowering the boat in the water) so as to duck under the low clearance. Depending on your bridge, your console may only have to clear portions of the support structure at a time, rather than the entire width of the bridge. We gained 4-6" depending on how many hands on deck (bridge) we had.

 

[skunk]

ragtop, thanks for the tip.

I just purchased my boat last night down in Miami. It is a 2005 with a 115 hp yamaha. Can't wait to get to use it. I am already working on removing the electronics console which was not as easy as I thought. Look forward to gaining more information on this forum and hopefully I can add some useful input for others in the future.

Thanks,
-Mark