Common failure points for Bilge float switch? 2020 21 SE

[Double Hall]

I'll start off by saying I rushed to conclusions and ordered a new Rule switch, swapped it out, and problem not solved.

I have a 2020 21 SE, and factory everything. The manual switch works fine, but realized it wasn't pumping automatically when hopping up on plane. The boat is trailered this year, so not as big a deal as in the past. Anyway, I swapped float switch and still didn't trigger the pump.

Next I touched the 2 grey boat sided wires to bypass switch and jump the pump manually and nothing. The wires are zip tied tight in a loom and go under the deck pretty quickly so there is nothing easy to trace. Switches look like all wires are pushed in completely in console. Is there an easy or suggested next step? I'm worried animals or mice did damage over winter, not that I have any reason to believe that. I'm just paranoid after raccoons made themselves at home in older boat years ago. In a different yard.

Frustrated since boat isn't old and assumed a quick fix, but nothing obvious.

 

[pelagic2530]

Check near your batteries for an inline fuse holder that would power your automatic float switch. Check the fuse to see that it’s intact, and check the holder for corrosion or other degradation.

If it works from the manual switch but not from the float switch, there’s an issue with the 24hr power side of the circuit, which should look something like this: battery -> fuse -> float switch in wire -> float switch -> float switch out wire -> three way splice into bilge pump power wire.

See the attached diagram for a basic overview of how the circuit is laid out (you may or may not have the optional “alarm device” shown).

 

[shawnee83]

Pelagic is spot on. Mine is currently out as well and I need to check the fuse and or replace the float switch. Manual is also working fine on mine. My fuse is an automotive style and it is mounted right next to the positive terminal of my start battery. I’ve highlighted to fuse location.

 

[Double Hall]

Pelagic is spot on. Mine is currently out as well and I need to check the fuse and or replace the float switch. Manual is also working fine on mine. My fuse is an automotive style and it is mounted right next to the positive terminal of my start battery. I’ve highlighted to fuse location.

Thanks, fuse was good, I should have posted that. Looks clean, not blown.

I wire brushed battery terminals and they could probably be cleaner, but I'd think good enough. Bad grounds or connections have done funky stuff in the past but nothing obvious here.

 

[Double Hall]

Check near your batteries for an inline fuse holder that would power your automatic float switch. Check the fuse to see that it’s intact, and check the holder for corrosion or other degradation.

If it works from the manual switch but not from the float switch, there’s an issue with the 24hr power side of the circuit, which should look something like this: battery -> fuse -> float switch in wire -> float switch -> float switch out wire -> three way splice into bilge pump power wire.

See the attached diagram for a basic overview of how the circuit is laid out (you may or may not have the optional “alarm device” shown).
View attachment 37552

How do I test this? Can I jump one side of float to battery? Unfortunately both float leads go into loom and out of sight quickly.

 

[tomc585]

Probe the wires at the float switch for 12vdc.
Those switches take a beating over the years and while they may look new(ish) they do fail.

 

[Bodick93]

You gotta get to the bottom of this asap. The float switch not working is the one thing that sinks the boat. Picture this: hose pops off the wash down / livewell high speed pickup while underway. That thing flows a LOT of water. By the time you notice the boat running oddly you have taken on a lot of water. I had an inlet side screen leak when my boat was new (crossthreaded). FORTUNATELY when I came off plane the bilge pump was still running and I was able to investigate. Had that level switch been broken...
I ended up installing another bilge pump, USS senior and high water alarm. Unfortunately, the high water alarm doesn't activate unless the pumps can't keep up and the water keeps rising. I want to know ANY time the bilge pump is running, which should be never. I don't know how to get there.
Look at the wire color where the float wire disappears into the loom. It should reappear headed to the battery the same color.

 

[Double Hall]

You gotta get to the bottom of this asap. The float switch not working is the one thing that sinks the boat. Picture this: hose pops off the wash down / livewell high speed pickup while underway. That thing flows a LOT of water. By the time you notice the boat running oddly you have taken on a lot of water. I had an inlet side screen leak when my boat was new (crossthreaded). FORTUNATELY when I came off plane the bilge pump was still running and I was able to investigate. Had that level switch been broken...
I ended up installing another bilge pump, USS senior and high water alarm. Unfortunately, the high water alarm doesn't activate unless the pumps can't keep up and the water keeps rising. I want to know ANY time the bilge pump is running, which should be never. I don't know how to get there.
Look at the wire color where the float wire disappears into the loom. It should reappear headed to the battery the same color.

The problem is I can't see where the splice actually occurs. Tightly wrapped and under the deck within 18". I'll have to cut all zip ties and remove loom and trace, and hope for the best.

I have a green wire that goes to battery 2, coming from under the deck, directly behind console and a second black one with fuse coming from side loom side to battery 1. I think the black wire is the float power. Green could be electronics memory perhaps.

Next weekend I'll probe the leads from the float switch some more and try jumping one side to battery 1 and see what happens.

 

[Watergoat]

Don't just look at the fuse, try a new one. They sometimes crack and you can't see it. You can test with a VOM, or a test light.

 

[Ellsworth Harbor]

Thank You for the guidance. Reviewed wiring diagram. Check for blown fuse. Fuse blown. Found 5 amp fuse in holder. Replaced with 7.5 amp fuse. Float switch works fine. Yes, I had already replaced the float switch and replaced several rusty wires connections. Thanks again. This site is very helpful. mike

 

[warthog5]

Check for blown fuse. Fuse blown. Found 5 amp fuse in holder. Replaced with 7.5 amp fuse. Float switch works fine.

What do the spec's say that the pump amp draw is?

 

[Ellsworth Harbor]

manufacturer recommends 7.5 amps for pump / no spec on float switch for amps. Best, Mike

 

[JDesrosier]

Where would I find the wiring diagram for my 2220 sc? I was having bilge switch issues. Where the bait well was on but the battery switch was off. I was curious if the bait well was accidentally wired to the float too.

 

[Dleopoldi914]

My 2021 the bilge works but I notice the force that is expels water is extremely low rate.

What can be causing that? I’ve tried to take the pump out of the bracket and see if anything is caught in it. Nothing was caught.

 

[tomc585]

Check that the hose isn't leaking back into the bilge

 

[pelagic2530]

How do I test this? Can I jump one side of float to battery? Unfortunately both float leads go into loom and out of sight quickly.

Unfortunately, since the pump is spliced in, there’s not really a great way to do it without piercing/cutting the wiring. The best way is to use a multimeter to conduct continuity checks at various points in the system.

I’d definitely check the fuse for electrical continuity, rather than relying on visual. Sometimes they surprise you. Also make sure the holder itself is clean without any corrosion, and is intact- I’ve seen them break internally.

Beyond that, you’re going to have to dig into the loom to expose the three-way splice. That’s another common failure point.

Without the pumps and float switches rigged to a terminal block, there’s no good way to test components without cutting into the wiring unfortunately. It’s a crappy picture, but here’s how mine are rigged- easy test points for all components, and replacing a pump or switch is just a matter of taking out two screws. I can swap a livewell pump motor in 10 minutes.

 

[Gsully23]

My 2021 the bilge works but I notice the force that is expels water is extremely low rate.

What can be causing that? I’ve tried to take the pump out of the bracket and see if anything is caught in it. Nothing was caught.

Manually trip the float switch by hand and I bet you it pumps at full force. I see it all the time on brand new boats. Your float is getting power directly from the battery and should have an inline 5-7.5 amp fuse.

Also, make sure your getting the full 12.5v at the bilge pump it self. Check to see what the voltage is with just the switch on, and than check to see what it is with the float "on".

 

[Double Hall]

Well... I'm embarrassed. After all that, it WAS a bad 5amp fuse that looked entirely in tact. Unsure why it blew, but in interest of time, respliced the new float switch in and replaced the fuse. I'll probably convert to a breaker over the winter.

Thanks for pushing me for the obvious solution. Admittedly I don't have spare fuses on boat or even at this house, so trouble shooting without proper tools made me jump to conclusions. I now have a spare fuse on boat.

 

[pelagic2530]

Well... I'm embarrassed. After all that, it WAS a bad 5amp fuse that looked entirely in tact. Unsure why it blew, but in interest of time, respliced the new float switch in and replaced the fuse. I'll probably convert to a breaker over the winter.

Thanks for pushing me for the obvious solution. Admittedly I don't have spare fuses on boat or even at this house, so trouble shooting without proper tools made me jump to conclusions. I now have a spare fuse on boat.

Glad it worked out to be relatively painless. Probably worth checking out why the fuse blew though- they generally don’t just go on their own.

If it’s a typical AGC (glass tube) fuse, I’d recommend changing it out for an ATC style. Typically they’re more durable, and easy to determine if they blow.

Also worth checking the fuse amperage specified by the pump- it’s required to be printed directly on the casing. It’s very important that the fuse be sized exactly as specified: too small will cause nuisance blows, too large may cause the pump to burn in a locked rotor scenario.

 

[Double Hall]

Not a glass tube and only 5amp. I think it is too small, but I'll cough up to fluke as it took 4 years to blow. Just performed normally on today's outing.