engine winterization
- Thread starter hurricane
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DaleH
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I think of those 2 items as different use additives. I use Seafoam for decarbing only (though it will preserve fuel) so I use Startron to treat the fuel, where it is a more modern formulation that was designed for use on ethanol-based fuels.
Once you treat the tank, you really have to run the motor a bit to get the fuel throughout the motor and DO NOT forget to frequently and often cycle the push-the-key to 'choke' the motor. There are SEPARATE lines that branch off the fuel inlet direct to the manifold that the 'choke' squirts into. If you don't repeatedly cycle the 'choke' (actually a primer system) when you have treated fuel, it may never get in there to protect the fuel in that dedicated line.
I know of 2 motors this past Spring that needed service to the 'choke' lines as they were all gummed up.
Once you treat the tank, you really have to run the motor a bit to get the fuel throughout the motor and DO NOT forget to frequently and often cycle the push-the-key to 'choke' the motor. There are SEPARATE lines that branch off the fuel inlet direct to the manifold that the 'choke' squirts into. If you don't repeatedly cycle the 'choke' (actually a primer system) when you have treated fuel, it may never get in there to protect the fuel in that dedicated line.
I know of 2 motors this past Spring that needed service to the 'choke' lines as they were all gummed up.
Hurricane... will your boat be laid up for an extended period for winter storage?
If so, you are also going to want to fog the motor, give it a fresh water flush, and change the oil in the lower unit.
If you have never performed this service before, tell us what motor you have and we'll point you in the right direction.
If so, you are also going to want to fog the motor, give it a fresh water flush, and change the oil in the lower unit.
If you have never performed this service before, tell us what motor you have and we'll point you in the right direction.
Parkerman
Well-known member
Captain Kev
If I could jump in here this is a topic I also have questions on. I have an F-150 and would love someone to post the process of fogging and the lower unit oil change. I will only be hung up from now until late April. Should I still fog?
If I could jump in here this is a topic I also have questions on. I have an F-150 and would love someone to post the process of fogging and the lower unit oil change. I will only be hung up from now until late April. Should I still fog?
HM5
Well-known member
Parkerman, not to oneup anybody, but if I may interject here, the following link is to THT where Andy @SIM has posted some very detailed discussions you requested http://www.thehulltruth.com/forums/forum-view.asp?fid=14
I just winterized my 225 OX66 this past weekend. Had my camera with me but didn't take pictures of the process because i thought it wouldn't be worthwhile to post. Guess I was wrong. 
Anyway... This is what I do to winterize.
Keep in mind that this is what I do, and it might differ with what others might tell you.
Also remember that I perform this task with the boat in the water in my slip.
Step one was to remove the engine cowling, then remove the plastic cover from the throttle bodies. Once the plastic cover has been removed, you will see 6 throttle bodies stacked up all nice and pretty.
If you do this with the boat in the water like I do, don't dump the screws for the throttle body cover into the water!
Fire up the motor and bring it up to operating temperature.
Once up to temperature, begin spraying fogging oil into each cyl by spraying the oil through the air hole in each throttle body butterfly.
You need to work quickly and keep rotating through all 6 cyls until the oil is almost gone, or until the motor stalls (which generally won't happen on a 6 cyl big block).
Once you have thoroughly shot a generous amount of oil into each cyl, shut the motor down. By this time your boatyard should be free of any flying bugs from the smoke cloud you have created.
You should have saved a little fogging oil for the next step which frankly I think is optional.
Remove all of your sparkplugs and shoot some of the remaining fogging oil into each plug hole.
With the kill switch disconnected, crank the motor for a few seconds to distribute the oil in the cyl and re-install the plugs.
The next thing that I do is to connect my water hose to the Yamaha flush port and flush the motor for 20 to 30 minutes (motor vertical) with plain water.
While the motor is flushing with fresh water, I prepare my SaltAway flush kit and fill the container with a full load of SaltAway.
When I'm ready, I hook up the flush kit and begin the treatment.
Keep an eye on the color of the SaltAway container, and when the blue color begins to get rather light, shut off the water and disconnect everything. Leave the SaltAway product in the motor to drain naturally.
Replace the throttle body cover... replace the motor cowl... and you're done. Treat yourself to a beer. :wink:
Well... I'm done until the boat gets pulled and is sitting on land so I can change the oil in the lower unit.
Before attempting the oil change, get yourself the proper LU oil and accessories. I bought my supplies from SIM and the kit consisted of a gal of oil, a proper pump, and an assortment of new gaskets for the LU plugs.
When you are ready to change the LU oil, here is the sequence:
With the motor sitting vertical, place a drain pan under the LU and remove the bottom drain plug first.
Next, remove the upper drain plug and oil will begin flowing.
Caution! On some motors (like mine), the upper and lower drain plugs are not interchangeable (so don't mix them up). One plug is longer than the other and if you mix them up, one of them will not seat properly and will leak water into the lower unit.
(No need to ask me how I know this - trust me)
Take a look at the oil... If the fluid looks like a milkshake, that is an indication that you have water mixed with your oil and it is time to visit a mechanic to replace some seals, probably around the prop shaft due to fishing line getting wrapped around the prop and damaging the seals.
This photo is an example of an extreme case of damage to a prop seal (on a Grady).
If the oil looks good (dark blue/green for most brands), finish draining it and get your pump ready.
Connect the output hose of the pump to the bottom hole of the LU foot and begin pumping. Continue pumping until oil comes out of the top hole, then stop.
Put a new gasket on the top plug and snug it down sealing the top hole.
Put a new gasket on the bottom plug and then remove the fill hose from the pump. Oil will not flow from the bottom hole because it is held in place by the same principle that keeps soda in a straw when your finger seals the top hole. :wink:
Replace the drain plug in the bottom hole... snug it up... and you are done.
Total time to perform the task - 30 minutes including a 'ponder beer'.
You are now ready for winter storage. 8)
Anyway... This is what I do to winterize.
Keep in mind that this is what I do, and it might differ with what others might tell you.
Also remember that I perform this task with the boat in the water in my slip.
Step one was to remove the engine cowling, then remove the plastic cover from the throttle bodies. Once the plastic cover has been removed, you will see 6 throttle bodies stacked up all nice and pretty.
If you do this with the boat in the water like I do, don't dump the screws for the throttle body cover into the water!
Fire up the motor and bring it up to operating temperature.
Once up to temperature, begin spraying fogging oil into each cyl by spraying the oil through the air hole in each throttle body butterfly.
You need to work quickly and keep rotating through all 6 cyls until the oil is almost gone, or until the motor stalls (which generally won't happen on a 6 cyl big block).
Once you have thoroughly shot a generous amount of oil into each cyl, shut the motor down. By this time your boatyard should be free of any flying bugs from the smoke cloud you have created.
You should have saved a little fogging oil for the next step which frankly I think is optional.
Remove all of your sparkplugs and shoot some of the remaining fogging oil into each plug hole.
With the kill switch disconnected, crank the motor for a few seconds to distribute the oil in the cyl and re-install the plugs.
The next thing that I do is to connect my water hose to the Yamaha flush port and flush the motor for 20 to 30 minutes (motor vertical) with plain water.
While the motor is flushing with fresh water, I prepare my SaltAway flush kit and fill the container with a full load of SaltAway.
When I'm ready, I hook up the flush kit and begin the treatment.
Keep an eye on the color of the SaltAway container, and when the blue color begins to get rather light, shut off the water and disconnect everything. Leave the SaltAway product in the motor to drain naturally.
Replace the throttle body cover... replace the motor cowl... and you're done. Treat yourself to a beer. :wink:
Well... I'm done until the boat gets pulled and is sitting on land so I can change the oil in the lower unit.
Before attempting the oil change, get yourself the proper LU oil and accessories. I bought my supplies from SIM and the kit consisted of a gal of oil, a proper pump, and an assortment of new gaskets for the LU plugs.
When you are ready to change the LU oil, here is the sequence:
With the motor sitting vertical, place a drain pan under the LU and remove the bottom drain plug first.
Next, remove the upper drain plug and oil will begin flowing.
Caution! On some motors (like mine), the upper and lower drain plugs are not interchangeable (so don't mix them up). One plug is longer than the other and if you mix them up, one of them will not seat properly and will leak water into the lower unit.
(No need to ask me how I know this - trust me)
Take a look at the oil... If the fluid looks like a milkshake, that is an indication that you have water mixed with your oil and it is time to visit a mechanic to replace some seals, probably around the prop shaft due to fishing line getting wrapped around the prop and damaging the seals.
This photo is an example of an extreme case of damage to a prop seal (on a Grady).
If the oil looks good (dark blue/green for most brands), finish draining it and get your pump ready.
Connect the output hose of the pump to the bottom hole of the LU foot and begin pumping. Continue pumping until oil comes out of the top hole, then stop.
Put a new gasket on the top plug and snug it down sealing the top hole.
Put a new gasket on the bottom plug and then remove the fill hose from the pump. Oil will not flow from the bottom hole because it is held in place by the same principle that keeps soda in a straw when your finger seals the top hole. :wink:
Replace the drain plug in the bottom hole... snug it up... and you are done.
Total time to perform the task - 30 minutes including a 'ponder beer'.
You are now ready for winter storage. 8)
HM5
Well-known member
Hey Capt., you forgot the first step is to put the barley pops on ice so when it is ponder time, they wil be :wink: cold 8) :lol: :lol: :lol:
Really, your disertation on the subject is very good. I've been doing this on my Black engines for years. Like I've said before, 1000+ hrs on a Optimax.
Really, your disertation on the subject is very good. I've been doing this on my Black engines for years. Like I've said before, 1000+ hrs on a Optimax.
Never owned an Opti, but I had a Johnson Ocean Pro before this Yamaha and used the same procedure with it. I think all 2-strokes respond about the same to this method.
BTW - The barley pops were on ice, and the day was cool enough that a koozie wasn't even needed. :lol:
BTW - The barley pops were on ice, and the day was cool enough that a koozie wasn't even needed. :lol:
Here is my drill:
Fish until early Dec in the Bay
Tow the boat to Norfolk, VA and fish the CBBT area until the end of Jan
Tow boat back to Tri-State for the annual service
Tow boat back to Solomons and begin to fish the CCNPP
Fish the Bay throughout the summer
Repeat cycle.
Dave
aka
Fish until early Dec in the Bay
Tow the boat to Norfolk, VA and fish the CBBT area until the end of Jan
Tow boat back to Tri-State for the annual service
Tow boat back to Solomons and begin to fish the CCNPP
Fish the Bay throughout the summer
Repeat cycle.
Dave
aka
I had the occasion to winterize the lower unit today, and did so with photos.
Draining the old oil
Getting ready to fill...
She is full!
Clean her up. Remove the prop and clean and lube the prop shaft...
Sealed up for the winter.
Draining the old oil
Getting ready to fill...
She is full!
Clean her up. Remove the prop and clean and lube the prop shaft...
Sealed up for the winter.
