Filling holes, material compatible with gelcoat??

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saltyfish

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Charlottesville, VA
I have a few screw holes in the deck and in the vertical gunwhale supports (21SE) that I want to fill. I know epoxy is often used for this task, but I plan to re-do the non-skid next spring, and have read multiple times that gelcoat adheres poorly if at all to epoxy. I have also read that polyester resin or gel coat thickened with cabosil (another possible filler, it seems) sands poorly. I have resin, gel coat and cabosil on hand from a minor job I did in the bilge.

What say the experts? Spend another $25 on a WM product, or is there a simpler/better/cheaper solution? The non-skid is really worn down, there is no doubt I will tackle it in 2013.

Thanks,

Bryce
 
I leave ID of holes 'rough' and wet out with thin penetrating epoxy. Then I seal it with Formula 27, which is compatible with gelcoat. The 'rough' texture to the hole lets the F27 get a mechanical grip into the hole.

FWIW, when my SC was broad-sided by a 32' cabin cruiser, it tore the SS rail off the deck, but luckily no glass damage. But to replace it, I had to use the new Parker rail of 1 large fastener centered in the rail end, wheras my old one (circa '92) had a small chain place on the deck with 4 holes per stancion. I filled 24 1/4" holes in such a manner and I DEFY you ;) to see any evidence that there once were ANY holes on that starboard gunwhale ...
 
excellent, thanks.

Also, I have numerous "snap holes" to fill, in gunwhales. Do you use blue tape as backing to help hold the formula 27 in place, or maybe this is unnecessary? Some snap holes at the base of the livewell, with no access to backside.
 
saltyfish":g4qwt0hz said:
Do you use blue tape as backing to help hold the formula 27 in place, or maybe this is unnecessary? Some snap holes at the base of the livewell, with no access to backside.
F27 sets up FAST, as in you don't even have 5-10 minutes of working time. And it is thick like peanut butter, so it stays where spread or applied. Using a small applicator tool, you should be able to get it to fill the holes, or do it twice, once on one side, the 2nd time on the other.

DO NOT fill flush to the surface, leave a little "dip" for the gelcoat ...

On rough holes I used a countersink to make a nice clean edge, using tool backwards, if needed, and/or spun slowly so as not to chip the hole ...
 
Rough sand the epoxy and the gelcoat will adhere mechanically.
 

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It will ... but by gawd I HATE marinetex ...

I no longer recommend it ... impossible to get an accurate mix without looking like a druggie with a pharmaceutical scale ...

But that's just me ;) ! Glad you seem to have luck with it.

I also prefer both a mechanical and chemical bond when using gelcoat.
 
DaleH":1vwnqu0u said:
It will ... but by gawd I HATE marinetex ...

... impossible to get an accurate mix

It's tough, that's why I mix the whole container at once...... wasteful I know but it's strong stuff and is permanent. Not cheap either. :?

FWIW it has been six years since that repair and it is still undetectable. Considering the size of the holes, I personally didn't think it would hold up.
 
any big preference for brand etc of penetrating epoxy for "wetting holes" before filling with F27? Git rot looks to be the cheapest.

thanks
 
warthog5":21grv0lk said:
do you have gelcoat on your bracket?

No...They do not gellcoat alum brackets. It is Powdercoated.

Actually Armstrong sprays them with the Parker color Awlgrip at the factory, you can call them for a patch kit, cost about $20.

I get one every spring to touch up any chips or scratches.

As for Grouperjim, not sure what he used for that repair.
 
Bryan 2530":16pft1rz said:
As for Grouperjim, not sure what he used for that repair.

As for me I used gelcoat for the repair of the factory predrilled kicker motor holes on the bracket. It was easier to get a spot on match of the texture. I have gotten pretty good with matching texture with gelcoat. I could not do that with paint and match it perfectly without doing the whole topside of the bracket.

As far as what the original coating is on the factory bracket, I have heard everything from Awlgrip to emron (sp) paint. May depend on the year. They may have even powder coated some years, not sure. But definitely looks like paint on mine. Was easy enough to sand and have the gelcoat adhere.

FWIW the factory color of the bracket and the factory gelcoat color of the hull are two different colors. The bracket is a lighter shade of beige. In gelcoat terms the color is "Dusky" and is a stock color at Fiberglass Coatings Inc. here in St. Pete.

One thing I learned from this project is that adding wax to the gelcoat works fine on the topside of the bracket, but does not work at all on the inverted underside. lol

On the underside, the wax floats upward and causes a barrier between the gelcoat and bracket preventing adhesion of the gelcoat. On the underside you have to use straight gelcoat and then cut it off from the air by spraying with some mold release wax after the gelcoat has started to kick.

Below is the "after" shot of a full thickness three inch hole repair of the pulpit when I moved the windlass off the pulpit and over the anchor locker door.

Can't tell can ya? :mrgreen:
 

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saltyfish":eevvh3p2 said:
any big preference for brand etc of penetrating epoxy for "wetting holes" before filling with F27? Git rot looks to be the cheapest.

thanks

Curious about this as well... I have some small over-sized (stripped out) screw holes in various spots that I'd like to seal and then re-drill for new screws.
 
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