How do I repair the hardware "footprint"

[TheOtherLine]

I've decided to replace my Horizon windless with a Pro Fish auto free fall.

The problem is that the holes into which the anchor line feeds into, overlap. The gypsy on the Horizon is on the port side. The ProFish gypsy is on the starboard side.

It would be like two cirlces intersecting each other.

Any suggestions as to how to approach this problem?

 

[TunaJoe]

I'd use 1/4 inch starboard as a base. You can cover the holes you won't be using.

 

[Megabyte]

I'd use 1/4 inch starboard as a base. You can cover the holes you won't be using.

I agree... But if all you are doing is covering the old holes for a cosmetic finish, 1/8" starboard might be all that you need.

Either way, I believe starboard is the way to go unless you're prepared to re-glass and start over. :wink:

 

[Bryan 2530]

Does the widlass cover the hole??
If so, I would fill the hole with milled fiber and epoxy. If not go with polyester resin and gelcoat over the hole. The nonskid should help hid the repair.

Personally I would avoid the starboad, post a pic for a better eval.
Good luck.

 

[TheOtherLine]

The problem is, i think, that the line holes overlap and the bolt holes on the new footprint might be too close to the bolt holes on the old footprint.

Notice the two side by side AA bolt holes on the 700. I think there will be nothing for me to drill into as the 500 line hole looks like it's right where the 2 AA holes on the 700 go.

Also remember, I have to center the windlass so the line is exactly lined up with the pulpit roller.

Not crazy about the starboard idea as it will look like a patch up job but that might be the easiest solution. Take a look at the pdf's and see what you think.

The Horizon hole is about 2" around the Pro hole is about 3". Maybe I could take a piece of the helm cutout from the gps install and cut a piece out the same size as the Horizon hole, then epoxy it in. :?:

You may have to rotate the pic to see what i mean.

 

[grouperjim]

If the Profish hole is supposed to be bigger than the Horizon hole then there should be no problem at all. THE HOLE is "the hole" centered on the pulpit regardless of the windlass make.

Make the 3 inch hole over the existing hole. The hole can actually be a little bigger than 3 inches.....as long as the windlass footprint covers it.....that is all that matters. After drilling the hole perpendicular to the pulpit surface, make sure you angle/hollow it out aft as much a you can.......that will help shoot the rode closer to the deeper part of the anchor locker and help reduce kinks and snarls.

Fill in any unused holes with some Marine-tex. Seal the exposed plywood with some thinned epoxy resin. If there are any repaired holes still visible after the reinstall, then rough up the Marine-Tex and touch up with your gelcoat. On those small holes you should be able come back and use a toothpick to duplicate the nonskid texture.

 

[Bryan 2530]

What jim said.......plus

The problem is, i think, that the line holes overlap and the bolt holes on the new footprint might be too close to the bolt holes on the old footprint.

Fill the old bolt holes before you drill , then it doesn't matter.

 

[TheOtherLine]

Make the 3 inch hole over the existing hole.

How do you make a hole over a hole? If using a hole saw, there is no surface to drill the pilot hole into. Jigsaw or Dremel it?

 

[grouperjim]

It will be a bitch of a hole to make whatever you use. In this case, I'd use a 3 inch hole saw with or without the pilot bit. They are a bit tricky to start because it will want to take off (walk) in the direction of the drill rotation. In the absence of a drill press, you need to trace a circle around the hole saw for reference, then (with a good strong grip) start the forward side of he hole until it digs in. After about a 1/4 inch or so, make contact with the rest of the hole saw blade and go for it. Also, lay an old towel or something down in the bottom of the anchor locker to keep stuff from clogging the drain.

I am sure Dale will chime in with some fancy contraption to steady the hole saw to make it easier.

One last thing. Although I hate silicon, you need to use marine grade silicon to seal the windlass housing to the deck and also the wiring going through the pulpit. Since these are prone to removal and repair, silicon is the only practical thing to use.

If all else fails, I think I saw a guy with a new pulpit for sale in the CP "for sale" section.......now that would be an interesting project.

 

[TheOtherLine]

In the absence of a drill press, you need to trace a circle around the hole saw for reference, then (with a good strong grip) start the forward side of he hole until it digs in.

OK, I'm going to admit I don't have the carpentry skills that many on this forum do, so, I am going to ask another stupid question.

The hole has to be centered. If I am missing the surface that allows me to "mark" center, what am I going to trace the circle around?

 

[grouperjim]

The existing hole is assumed to be on centerline. If it is a 2 inch hole then make your mark 1/2 inch out all the way around which will then give you a 3 inch diameter hole.

If you need to move the hole forward or backwards a bit (you want the new windlass to be as far back as possible) then only worry about coming out 1/2 inch to either side of the existing hole.......either way the new hole will be on centerline if you keep the 3 inch hole saw within the marks.

FYI: If I were mounting my Lewmar all over again (and I didn't already have a 3 inch hole in the pulpit), I would not even mount it on the pulpit (like the factory does). I would take the overhead anchor locker door off and fabricate a 3/4 starboard (or similar) solid replacement and seal and screw it down over the door opening. I'd mount the windlass on the 3/4 starboard which would be directly over the deepest part of the anchor locker. I think it would work much better than the current factory design.

 

[TheOtherLine]

FYI: If I were mounting my Lewmar all over again (and I didn't already have a 3 inch hole in the pulpit), I would not even mount it on the pulpit (like the factory does). I would take the overhead anchor locker door off and fabricate a 3/4 starboard (or similar) solid replacement and seal and screw it down over the door opening. I'd mount the windlass on the 3/4 starboard which would be directly over the deepest part of the anchor locker. I think it would work much better than the current factory design.

Hmmm. How hard would it be to patch up the holes where the existing windlass is?

 

[grouperjim]

You know the guy with the new pulpit for sale.......that would probably be easier.

 

[TheOtherLine]

You know the guy with the new pulpit for sale.......that would probably be easier.

Got it. Thanks.

 

[Bryan 2530]

How do you make a hole over a hole? If using a hole saw, there is no surface to drill the pilot hole into. Jigsaw or Dremel it?

Take a piece of Luan or similiar plywood material that covers the existing hole by alot. Hot glue or bolt it down using the existing holes. Now you have someting to guide your hole saw while it is getting started. Once you cut through the plywood it will hold it in place as the saw cuts the remainder of the hole. It may take a bit to get started but the rusults will be better than trying to hold it to get started.

Or buy a new pulpit.

 

[grouperjim]

Bryan's method would definitely make getting the hole started easier than strong arming it.

Like Bryan said, I'd use a piece of scrap, like plywood, and drill the 3 inch hole in it, then lay it on the pulpit wherever you want the hole to be. Stand on the plywood or temp attach it. The hole saw should bite true with the plywood as a guide. Great idea Bryan. Brain power or brute force......or a little of both.

 

[Parkerman]

I agree with Grouperjim's way. As a carpenter I see this sort of thing when trying to put a newer lock with a 2 1/8" hole into an existing door with an old style lock that has a smaller size hole. Using a scrap with the 2 1/8" hole pre drilled through it and using it as a guide for the hole saw eliminates the need for the pilot drill. IMO strong arming it is just too risky. Use hot glue to hold down your scrap peice of wood.
Good Luck.

 

[DaleH]

Simple! You need a bigger hole right? But off-center from what is there?

1) Screw a TEMPORARY piece of wood UNDER the piece the hole will be, but put the 2 or 3 screws in that will hold it into the place. Put those screws where new screw holes will be or where the new hole will be cut out. Or if nothing else ... they're under the deck ... use and patch/fill when done!

2) Find the center yu need and drill a new pilot hole, like 1/4", no more, into that piece of scrap wood.

3) Chuck up a LONG 1/4" drill backwards (or use 1/4" drill0 stock into the holesaw mandrel and cut through. Go SLOW on feed and use moderate speed (RPMs) when the holesaw starts to contact the eccentric part of the hole.

Making such guide pieces works slick!