Hull is waxed!

Classic Parker Boat Forum

Help Support Classic Parker Boat Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

miky2884

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2010
Messages
1,469
Reaction score
0
Location
Westbrook CT
Well after the previous owner of my boat neglecting to wax 1 square inch of it since it came out of the mold (11 years ago) She now has her first 3 coats of wax on her. 2 coats of 3M compound (thanks Kevin adding the water on the pad makes a huge difference!) and 3 coats of Meguiars flag ship the hull is 100% done, next weekend onto the pilot house and all the interior. Put over 18 hours into the hull this weekend, my arms feel like Gumby!!!!!

Few pictures below i will have to snap a few more, in one pic you can see the heavy oxidation compared to where I already compounded. The pic doesn't do it justice of how bad it was.
 

Attachments

  • parker32.JPG
    parker32.JPG
    30.8 KB
  • parker33.JPG
    parker33.JPG
    55 KB
Thanks for the kind words,

I started on the top side last night, (side of the pilot house) its going to be along process cant get the buffer in a lot of the areas so a lot of it has to be done by hand and it just doesn't come out as well by hand, got a little frustrated and let it be for the night, we got a couple days of rain coming so hopefully by the end of the week i can get back at it.
 
You did the right thing walking away for the time being.

The pilothouse can be tough because of the close quarters, and the fact that it stresses your arms and back unbelievably.
It can be done though. You just need to be patient and let the buffer and the compound work for you.

I did end up wrapping the electric cord around the buffer shaft twice though.
Gotta take care to watch were the cord is while you work. :oops:

If it doesn't come to you the first time, take a break, change to a new pad, and go over it again.
It took me a total of four applications of compound (3 brown and 1 white) before I got rid of all the oxidation on the cabin.
I spent a good deal of time looking for any haze, and I couldn't find any, so I'm calling it good.

web.jpg


web.jpg


When I could see the reflection of my bow rail and the boats next to me in the gel coat, I figured that I was good.
 
I knew I would get a response from you Kevin!

Yours words are dead on, the pilot house area is a pain in the you know what!!!!! And the fact that the buffer takes a toll on your body . I have a slight case of OCD so like you if it doesn't look perfect it drives me NUTS!!!! So with that said i will be waxing for the next 3 weeks at least :roll:
 
miky2884":2cwvfjpm said:
i will be waxing for the next 3 weeks at least :roll:

I started on mine on March 16th and I have at least one more week to go before another commitment will cause me to stop.
Of course, weather has played a factor, so not all of those days have been productive. :)
 
Hi, can you tell me what brand of compound and wax works best for you, thanks
 
talbot guy":1seapjqh said:
Hi, can you tell me what brand of compound and wax works best for you, thanks

I don't believe that brand is as important as what you use, and how you use it.
I use a Makita 9227c with wool bonnets for compound, and polishing pads for wax.

Before beginning, place the wool pads in a bucket of water, and keep another bucket handy for the pads once they get dirty.
Place a pad on the buffer, and at a setting of 3, spin out the excess water.

If the surface is heavily oxidized, use something like the 3M brown liquid in a mustard squirt bottle (like you'd find in a diner).
Mix the compound 50/50 with water to keep the surface moist as you use the buffer to cut the bad gel coat from the good.
If the pad dries out prematurely, keep a squirt bottle with water handy to keep it moist.

For a less oxidized surface, use a less aggressive polishing compound (generally white in color).

As the compound dries, the buffer will take the haze off and reveal the gel coat finish.
Remove any residual haze with a cloth and evaluate the surface.

Do not allow the bonnet to become loaded with oxidized gelcoat, as all you will do is to grind the old into the new causing nasty swirl marks.
When the bonnet becomes soiled, replace it with a clean one and put the dirty one in a bucket of water for cleaning later.

As for wax, I have used the Starbrite products, the Meguiers products, and the Collinite products.
All of them work well.
Wax goes on with the polishing bonnet, and comes off by hand.

Remember... depending on the condition of your fiberglass, it might take several applications of compound and/or polish to remove all the oxidation haze.
If you don't completely remove the oxidation from the finish, no amount of wax (of any brand) will make it look good.
Proper preparation of the surface is essential before you apply wax.

Hope this helps.
 
thank you all, looks like a busy weekend for me, that honey-do list will have to wait a little longer
 
Back
Top