Joining 1 wire to 2 wires

[DaleH]

Just got asked how I do this, as a CP poster wanted to use these

My opine is that they're ungainly at best, not 'streamlined' and would take a lot of heat shrink or goop to cover.

Here's what I do, say when I want to put 1 feed wire into 2 outputs. I cut a small 1" piece of dummy wire, and then size the butt connector so that "2" go in one end and then the "2" real wires into the other. Cover all with adhesive-lined heatshrink. Anything in the bilge gets 5200 forced into the ends of the butt connector after crimping, allowed to form up a bit (hour or so) and then dressed with the ad-HShrink.

 

[sparky]

I say skip the butt connector. They are problematic and always allow some airspace to remain. Additionally, that dummy wire, unless completely sealed on the other end, will let water/salt/corrosion into the butt connector. Just solder the 3 wires together, and cover with 2-3 layers of glue-lined heatshrink. Never had a problem yet. I've cut off more butt connectors than I care to remember.

 

[DaleH]

I say skip the butt connector. They are problematic and always allow some airspace to remain. Additionally, that dummy wire, unless completely sealed on the other end, will let water/salt/corrosion into the butt connector.

There’s no problems with butt connectors ‘per se’, provided good techniques are used to waterproof them. For the record, I’ve never had one fail when properly sealed.

Additionally, that dummy wire, unless completely sealed on the other end, will let water/salt/corrosion into the butt connector.

If its well sealed in 3M 5200 and adhesive-lined heatshrink … there’s no problem in my experience.

Just solder the 3 wires together … never had a problem yet.

BEWARE of soldering! It is NOT allowed as the sole means of connection as per USCQ, BIA, and ABYC standards. I believe it is also NOT allowed to be used at all on any commercially licensed vessel. These same standard also require ALL wiring runs to be supported along their length (every 18” if I recall correctly). While soldering is used by those custom motorcycle guys shown on TV, boats are subject to way more vibration, jostling, and banging away in seas … and that has the potential to damage existing wiring runs and pull apart connections that any drive down a highway or rough road would ever do.

Solder is brittle and prone to failure. So many boat electrical fires have been started as a result of failed soldered connections that if you use solder on your boat and have a fire - your insurance compnany will not cover you - even if you used good technique. Boat/US claim files are full of examples. One 'poor' soldered connection on a boat that burned is enough 'evidence' to negate your coverage.

My personal advice to any boat owner is to use good techniques and properly seal any crimp-type connection used.

 

[sparky]

I say skip the butt connector. They are problematic and always allow some airspace to remain. Additionally, that dummy wire, unless completely sealed on the other end, will let water/salt/corrosion into the butt connector.

There’s no problems with butt connectors ‘per se’, provided good techniques are used to waterproof them. For the record, I’ve never had one fail when properly sealed.

Additionally, that dummy wire, unless completely sealed on the other end, will let water/salt/corrosion into the butt connector.

If its well sealed in 3M 5200 and adhesive-lined heatshrink … there’s no problem in my experience.

Just solder the 3 wires together … never had a problem yet.

BEWARE of soldering! It is NOT allowed as the sole means of connection as per USCQ, BIA, and ABYC standards. I believe it is also NOT allowed to be used at all on any commercially licensed vessel. These same standard also require ALL wiring runs to be supported along their length (every 18” if I recall correctly). While soldering is used by those custom motorcycle guys shown on TV, boats are subject to way more vibration, jostling, and banging away in seas … and that has the potential to damage existing wiring runs and pull apart connections that any drive down a highway or rough road would ever do.

Solder is brittle and prone to failure. So many boat electrical fires have been started as a result of failed soldered connections that if you use solder on your boat and have a fire - your insurance compnany will not cover you - even if you used good technique. Boat/US claim files are full of examples. One 'poor' soldered connection on a boat that burned is enough 'evidence' to negate your coverage.

My personal advice to any boat owner is to use good techniques and properly seal any crimp-type connection used.

This debate has been raging for years. I've seen more improperly-done crimp joints cause failures and even a few small fires (from wires pulling out) than I've seen broken solder joints.

Nonetheless, both techniques work, provided that you use 2-3 layers of glue-lined heatshrink. That functions as the secondary "means of connection", and in my view (and any marine surveyor I've worked with) meets ABYC. I often use liquid electrical tape over the entire thing, especially if its in the bilge. I also religiously use screw-on wire hangers in my wiring, which helps a lot.

The most important thing is that whatever technique someone chooses, they perform it correctly, using the correct tools. A bad crimp is just as bad a cold solder joint. Both can fail and both are easily avoided. A good ratcheting crimper with the correct die and high-quality crimp connectors combined with good heatshrink tubing make a bond thats just as good as a correct solder joint and good heatshrink tubing.

 

[jeffnick]

I cut a small 1" piece of dummy wire...

I just double up the original wire.

These are good too, after you dip the finished unit into liquid tape.

http://www.posi-lock.com/

 

[Bryan 2530]

These work great from Del City

http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/ ... 207&page=1

 

[MaxOut]

I say skip the butt connector. They are problematic and always allow some airspace to remain. Additionally, that dummy wire, unless completely sealed on the other end, will let water/salt/corrosion into the butt connector.

I agree "No butt splice" but if you want to use a butt connector put all the wires in one side and seal-heat shrink. In my opinion the only way to use one in a marine environment running on 12VDC.

I know someone is going to point out that they are commonly used by OEM's like "Parker" but that does not make them the best. That just means "JOB SECURITY" :lol:

The problem with a butt splice is you actually have two connections. I think everyone will agree fewer connections are better and wires touching transfer current better. Marine and automotive 12 volt electrical systems rely on transfer of amperage more so then voltage. Amps are transferred on the surface of the wire and is why multi stranded wire is used in 12VDC applications verses solid strand wire like used in AC wiring. That’s why wires actually touching will transfer current better than wires mated in a butt splice. I have found many butt splices failing in 12VDC systems and sometimes found them by touch (heat = energy loss).


Another option would be a crimp cap and is what I use. You can get them wrapped in heat shrink and filled with hot glue. Crimp heat and you’re done. I’ve used them in many underground applications and yet to see one fail.

 

[HM5]

Not wishing to escalate this discussion, but I used to teach students the methods recommended by GM, Ford and Chrysler in their service manuals. This involves solder and heatshrink which is similar to the methods outlined at the following link, (it also discusses crimp connections):
http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/connections.htm

The big issue is insuring that it is NOT a cold solder joint. If pssibility suspected, I first clean the wire with sand paper and Tinner's Acid.
In the bilge, I also use Liquid Electrical Tape on top and the ends of the heatshrink to insure the seal.

 

[MaxOut]

Not wishing to escalate this discussion, but I used to teach students the methods recommended by GM, Ford and Chrysler in their service manuals. This involves solder and heatshrink which is similar to the methods outlined at the following link, (it also discusses crimp connections):
http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/connections.htm

The big issue is insuring that it is NOT a cold solder joint. If pssibility suspected, I first clean the wire with sand paper and Tinner's Acid.
In the bilge, I also use Liquid Electrical Tape on top and the ends of the heatshrink to insure the seal.

GM, Ford & Chrysler make boats?? :lol: :lol: Just kidding...I love the smell of solder. :wink:

 

[ppem45]

I used this method today on my new Bow Navagtion Lights, worked great. What I did to waterproof them was to first crimp the wires and had my shrink on the wires and then I covered everything with liquid tape and then slid the shrink down and used a small pair of scizzors and cut a small slit in each shrink so they overlap. I then slid it as far as it would go onto the connector and when I was done there was nothing left bare for the weather or any condensation to get at. Everything fits nice and I am sure it will probably be around long after I am gone. Thanks for the idea as I used to use solder and it was a pain in the ass.