Morse Throttle Problem and some general 2320 questions

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Lights Out

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Last week I became the proud new owner of a 2007 2320 with a 250 hp Yamaha. :D I absolutely love the boat so far however, I do have a problem with the throttle cable on the 2nd steering station. When then throttle is all the way down at idle it takes a considerable amount of force to get past where it is "sticking" and it goes from idle rpm's to revving very high. Makes it useless to use around the docks when you need accurate control of the boat. I took the control apart and from what I can tell the cable must be kinked because the control itself it smooth when the cable is disconnected.

Has anyone had similar problems? Is the only course of action to replace the cable? The cabin controls have a smooth throttle operation from top to bottom however, when trying to dial in a trolling speed between 800 RPM's and 1400 RPM's from either station is all but impossible.

Few more questions.

My cruise and WOT speed seem to be considerably slower than what I have read on this site for a 2320 with a 250hp. At 4200 Rpm's I'm at 20mph and at 5600 I'm at 35mph. Is that normal for a stock prop? I'm certain the boat needs a correct prop but, I'm not sure if even a correct prop will get me where others are reporting they are with the same combination which seems to be 4000 4200 Rpm's for a 28-30mph cruise speed and at WOT 42-45mph. The bottom is painted on the boat so I don't think I will achieve the exact same numbers but I think I should be closer. Any thoughts?
 
I just had to replace my Morse controls in my 2320. I had the same problem very difficult to shift and very sticky around idle speeds. I replaced them with teleflex extreme cables.
 
You changed your Morse CABLES, you still have a single Yamaha Binnacle.

Lights out has a dual helm with morse controls, a little different setup. I would check where the cables are going into the engine, bet the hose there is at an extreme angle causing the system to bind or has already damages the cables, Mikes boat had the same problem.

Also, go with the Extreme cables, great upgrade.

And, what prop are you running, we can't help you without those numbers. If its less than 17, the pitch is way to low.
 
Sorry worded that wrong correct I dont have the Morse controls just had the cables, Yamaha 704 controls
 
Lights Out":3jkr7yuy said:
Is the only course of action to replace the cable? The cabin controls have a smooth throttle operation from top to bottom however, when trying to dial in a trolling speed between 800 RPM's and 1400 RPM's from either station is all but impossible.

The way you explain the problem, I would suspect a kinked and damaged cable.
Since you've checked the Morse controls, can you disconnect each cable and try to move each one by hand?
That would isolate the offending cable. When you find the one, follow it to see if it has been kinked somewhere.

As has been suggested, if replacing cables, get the Morse X-Treme cables.
 
The prop is a stock Yamaha prop and the only numbers I can find stamped on it are 17-T.

For the controls / cable. Is that hard to replace? Do I have to pull the cable out and measure it before I buy it or is there a standard cable length for my configuration? I'm wondering if I can use the cable that is there to pull the new one through?
 
Megabyte":32fyrsv0 said:
Lights Out":32fyrsv0 said:
Is the only course of action to replace the cable? The cabin controls have a smooth throttle operation from top to bottom however, when trying to dial in a trolling speed between 800 RPM's and 1400 RPM's from either station is all but impossible.

The way you explain the problem, I would suspect a kinked and damaged cable.
Since you've checked the Morse controls, can you disconnect each cable and try to move each one by hand?
That would isolate the offending cable. When you find the one, follow it to see if it has been kinked somewhere.

As has been suggested, if replacing cables, get the Morse X-Treme cables.

Hi Kevin,

I found which cable I can't move by hand, I don't see where it is kinked anywhere but I need to check at the motor end. I'd like to use the bad cable to pull the new one through but not sure how I will order the correct cable without removing it. I'm also curious how to prevent this sort of problem from happening again.
 
I think Miky's cable had a number stamped on them , maybe he'll chime in and tell you what he did.
 
Usually the last 2 digits on any part# printed on a mechanical cable = the length. Example, X840022 would be an Xtreme cable of 22' length ... just making up numbers here.
 
Yes i called teleflex and asked them which cables i needed (i replaced shift and throttle) they gave me the part number of ccx633 and then informed me the last two numbers would be the cable length, so when i ordered I gave the guy the part number off of the morse cables and the last 2 digits of those was the length, and i needed 24 feet for my 2320 and I have plenty of slack left over but not to much which is good. If you decide to change the cables make sure you save the adapters on the cables at the motor end very important you will need those.
 
Looks like the cable I need to replace is from the cabin controls to the 2nd steering station controls.... Its just my luck that on both ends of the cable the last number is not legible. I can read cc6331_ easily but the last number is a blob.... I will try to get a pic.... if I had to guess I would say it reads 10.
 
You can measure the actual length of the cable that needs to be replaced. I didnt know at first if this would be accurate but after measuring mine and then giving the guy from teleflex the numbers on the old cables the measurement i took (24ft) was accurate.
 
attach a piece of twine to the cable pull it through measure then use twine to pull new cable through ???
 
Prop, sounds like you could go 4 blade at 17 or 3 blade at 19.

Whatever you do ditch the stock prop.
 

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