I have a 2004 Yamaha four stroke 225 that i recently started having a problem starting. I would turn the key and it will just click once. I thought I may have had a bad connection so I cleaned the connections from the motor to the cut off switch and then to the battery. That still has not fixed the problem. I pulled both batteries out and had them tested and they still seem to be strong. I hooked a jump box to the battery and It finally turned over. I did not have the problem again for two weeks and it started again yesterday. Turn the key and 1 click. Tested battery again and they had a full charge but I decided to jump again and after a minute it started up. Any ideas on what may be causing this? It leads me to believe it is the starter relay or the started. And help would be greatly appreciated.
Motor will not start, just clicks once
- Thread starter dsop89
- Start date
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DaleH
FOUNDER of Classic Parker Forum
"Seems to be strong" is not a quantitative assessment of your batteries. You need them load tested. How old are they? Motors with electronic ignition won't kick over of the computer doesn't see > 11-volts DC while cranking.
If batteries check out OK, then you also need to troubleshoot or ohm (resistance) check your leads from batteries to battery switch to motor. Resistance can inhibit voltage delivered. Check your leads, are they getting HOT? I have seen battery switches go bad too, so check ALL possible combination
If using wing nuts ... please THROW them away !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and read these posts!!!!!!
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2296
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9824&p=68880
.. and look at the picture of a superior battery connection method on that 2nd post above ...
If batteries check out OK, then you also need to troubleshoot or ohm (resistance) check your leads from batteries to battery switch to motor. Resistance can inhibit voltage delivered. Check your leads, are they getting HOT? I have seen battery switches go bad too, so check ALL possible combination
If using wing nuts ... please THROW them away !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and read these posts!!!!!!
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2296
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9824&p=68880
.. and look at the picture of a superior battery connection method on that 2nd post above ...
Thanks for the reply. I load tested both batteries when I pulled them out originally that is why I said they seem to be strong. Should I bring them to an auto parts store and have them tested more thoroughly? I do not think it is a connection issue either. Not really sure where to go from here. Thinking it is the starter relay or the starter itself. No wing nuts are in use on the battery.
DaleH
FOUNDER of Classic Parker Forum
You need a helper ....
With existing battery or batteries, rap the starter with a heavy plastic mallet or block of hardwood whilst "trying to crank". If it cranks, then it sounds like the brushes on the starter are worn, or ... the solenoid could be bad and using the jump start ADDS enough amps to force either part to cooperate & crank the OB. Starters can be rebuilt at local good starter/generator rebuild place, no need for expen$ive replacement Yumster component IF the case is good. You might even get a like for like replacement solenoid at local foreign auto parts store, as Yummie doesn't make their own, not does any OB mfg'r; they all typically use OTS components.
With existing battery or batteries, rap the starter with a heavy plastic mallet or block of hardwood whilst "trying to crank". If it cranks, then it sounds like the brushes on the starter are worn, or ... the solenoid could be bad and using the jump start ADDS enough amps to force either part to cooperate & crank the OB. Starters can be rebuilt at local good starter/generator rebuild place, no need for expen$ive replacement Yumster component IF the case is good. You might even get a like for like replacement solenoid at local foreign auto parts store, as Yummie doesn't make their own, not does any OB mfg'r; they all typically use OTS components.
