My electronics install.

[TunaJoe]

So, I started the install and thought I'd post some pics of the process.
I'm installing a RM E80 with a 2 KW 24 mile radar, GPS and the Airmar B60 thru hull flushmount ducer connected to the DSM 300.
I'm also installing an Lewmar 700 Pro with the new wireless remote.
VHF is a Icom 504.

 

[TunaJoe]

A few more pics....

 

[TunaJoe]

Here is the windlass ready to be installed. The all stainless windlass looks great!
Once the wireless control is installed, I'll let everyone know how it works.

FYI, if anyone is considering this remote control along with a new windlass purchase, don't buy the Lewmar 700. Get the 1000. The Lewmar 1000 comes with the guarded rocker switch and the 2 station control solenoid with the windlass.
Both of these things are required to operate a second control station, ie the wireless remote. I had to purchase both of these and it brought the total cost to over what a 1000 would have cost. Oh well, live and learn.

I took Grouper Jim's advise and picked up a Delta 22 pound anchor.
Got a fancy ss swivel too!

 

[TunaJoe]

Here are a few pics of the radar tower install and the transducer install.
Thanks to everyone who answered my questions.
Radar tower was placed with 4200 and thru bolted. The tower came with nylon grommets to isolate the stainless bolts from the powder coated aluminum.
Stainless bolts which connect the radome to the tower are coated with dielectric grease.
I took the extra step of sealing the cable with silicone not only where it connects to the radome but also around the grommet.
I opted for the forward tilted, 5" tall, tower. I wanted to know what the indication was for forward or aft tilted towers, and thought perhaps it was based on esthetics.
Well, according to Scanstruts website, the forward is for radomes and the rear tilted is for open array.
The cable runs really made this an easy job running the cables!
It was a bit difficult getting the nut on the bolts inside the run to secure the tower.
Had to tape the nut on to the wrench as access was poor for the rear 2 nuts.

 

[TimC2520]

:shock:

Sweeeet job!

Is that what I think it is in the first photo of the radar tower ????????

 

[Megabyte]

Nicely done!
Excellent documentation.

 

[TunaJoe]

Ha!
I think it's a lady bug on the lens?

 

[cbigma]

Wow!

Great work TunaJoe!

Radar, Transducer, the windlass,,,,, a spring project Trifecta! :shock: :shock:

I'm impressed! You've drilled more holes in your boat in one weekend than most of us do in a year!

I'm jealous of the cable raceways in the newer model Parkers.

Thanks for posting the pics.

 

[RandMadeRods]

Looks great Joe.

 

[TimC2520]

Ha!
I think it's a lady bug on the lens?

They bring good luck

 

[96TL]

Wow!

I'm jealous of the cable raceways in the newer model Parkers.

Same here! I hate those tubes that we have. They could've at least made them a bit wider!

Nice boat, and nice work!

 

[bobkat]

Hi Tuna Joe

I saw your post just as I was about to start the wiring on a Profish 700 that I installed over the weekend. I have a'07 2520 and I got some info from Parker that differed somewhat from the wiring directions that came with the windlass. Have you started the wiring yet? I would love to know how it is progressing if you have. Any advice will be greatly appreiciated. Thanks,
Bob

 

[TunaJoe]

Wiring is finished!
What questions do you have?
I'll try my best to answer them.
I highly recommend the wireless remote. Awesome! See my earlier post regarding requirements for this handy little device.

 

[DaleH]

Dayum nice work and a GREAT addition to the on-line Parker Owner's Manual !

 

[bobkat]

Hi Joe
Let me add my congrats on the flawless installs! As I said, I am in the process of wiring the windlass. My questions are:
1) Did you use the wiring diagram from Lewmar for the install? ( I have attached the recc. wiring diagram that Parker sent me)
2) What size wire did you use based on the run? Did you use duplex wire for the run to the battery?
3)Did you run the wires on the Port side to avoid electronic interference?
4) I think I see the breaker and switch on the right side of the console. Where did you put the additional parts needed for the remote?
5) Do you use freefall and if you do, does the Delta anchor drop off in that setting?
Thanks for any info and the great posts!
Bob

 

[TunaJoe]

Thanks everyone for the nice compliments. Just for the record, I cut most of the holes and dry fit almost all components. Dissasembled as much as I could for ease of working.
Brad Johnson, owner of Soujourn Marine did the wiring and helped me do the actual install. Oh yeah, almost forgot, he also fixed/repaired all of my screw ups.
I'm sure I also added hundreds of dollars to my bill from slowing him down while he patiently answered my constant questions.
Brad did a great job and I learned a tremendous amount about my boat.
Bob:
1. I used the Lewmar wiring guide, not the Parker one.
2. I used 4 AWG tinned wire. I'm assuming duplex means they are run together in a common sheath? Like a big electrical cord? If that's what you mean, then no, they were seperate wires. The terminal ends were crimped/swagged.
3. The control box solenoid is a fairly heavy object about 4.5"X5"X3" in size. I mounted it in the back of the dash under the shifter. Close to where all the cables come into the back of the dash. I can take a pic for you tomorrow. The remote switch/receiver is fairly small and it is mounted close to the control box solenoid. Again, I'll take a few pics and post tomorrow.
4. No free fall. I have the 700 Pro. As I mentioned, If doing it all over, I'd buy the 1000 Pro. Over all cheaper. The Delta appears to fall on its own. I've yet to drop the boat in the water
5. Wires were run on the starboard side. I asked specifically about interference and Brad said "no problem". I know he had a problem tying up the wires in the V berth and used a 90 degree drill.
I'm hoping to run the boat this weekend and test everything.
Bob, let me know if you want my cell #. I can PM my cell # and I can (hopefully) answer any questions for you.

Joe

 

[bobkat]

Joe:
Thanks for all the great info!! I spoke to the engineer at Parker who sent me that diagram and he cleared up a lot about it. Sounds like you are right on the money with what you did. The diagram atually shows more than what is needed for the windlass install, ie. the battery selector and stern buss bars etc. I can now go shopping for the wire and start wiring. He said that the factory install has the wires going right down the starboard side with all the other cables and to tie right up to them . That will definitely make it easier. Your pictures were great by the way and any others would be greatly appreciated by me and am sure others. I will PM my cell number and you can do the same for sure. When do you expect to be afloat? I am hoping to take a short run tommorow if the weather permits. If it's not great out, I'll continue with the install. That's the great part of a Pilot House boat! I love doing the work on my boat but I can say unequivocally that I would not have attempted much of what I am doing without the great posts and terrific advice on the CP boards. The info is invaluble for someone doing these installs. Thanks again.
Bob
ps does tooth mechanic = dds?

 

[TheOtherLine]

Here is the wiring diagram for Lewmar, by Lewmar. Hope this helps.

 

[Porkchunker]

Very nice work. And posts like yours are why we call CP the online Parker Owner's Manual.

Dave

aka

 

[TunaJoe]

Bob and anyone else interested, here are a few more pics of the windlass wiring.
When I was at one of our larger boating shows here in So Cal, I had the opportunity to crawl around a few of the Parkers from Sundance Marine.
I noticed that when they drilled the 3" hole for the chain/rode/windlass it was at an angle to allow the chain and rode to fall into the deeper part of the locker. Grouper Jim's post regarding his windlass install also confirmed this important bit of advice.
I was very carefull when driling the hole but it still ended up being off a bit. Hence my repair with starboard.
The wireless device is awesome! Works from all areas of the boat and should make hauling the anchor a bit easier solo.
I also had a third battery installed to be used as a house battery. I'll take a few pics of this install too when I get time.
And yes, I am a dentist!
Good luck with the install, I'll be at Catalina Island Thursday.