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Reelhookedup

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Well I did got the new Parker hat and the boat to go with it 2320 SCSL Sport Cabin. Now the work starts I run a charter business on the Finger Lakes of NY so I have a lot of equipment to install. I should get the boat in January so I want to get my stuff together for installation. I have always run aluminum boats so I have a few questions.

First what is the best method to drill threw the pilothouse roof and gunnels to mount hardware? Do you silicone around bolts and should you put rubber gaskets between aluminum and fiberglass when Thanks for all of the help, this site is one of the reasons I went with the Parker. Sean
mounting rod holders rocket launchers etc? Do you also recommend sealing inside of drilled holes before you insert your stainless bolts?
Can anyone recommend a good seating system for fishing cockpit behind pilothouse? I want to seat two on each side. I thought about two coolers with cushions.

Thanks for the help. Sean
 
Reelhookedup":1m80gis8 said:
Can anyone recommend a good seating system for fishing cockpit behind pilothouse? I want to seat two on each side. I thought about two coolers with cushions.

Thanks for the help. Sean

I am sure you are going to get a lot of good suggestions on the install question so I'll pass on that answer.

I do have a question about the seating. Are you thinking you want something permanent there of something you can take on and off the boat? The cooler idea you had would leave me to believe you want something removeable.
 
for us, seating is a 162 qt igloo with a pad. a word of advice though: get a measurement on your gunnel height first and try to find a cooler thats a bit shorter than that measurement with the pad. that way, you dont run the risk of dumping people overboard underway :shock: plus, the cooler idea gives you storage too.
 
On my 2520 Sport Cabin I have 2 stainless deck chairs and a 120 quart
cooler. One of the chairs has a bolt on gimbel. That chair is set up mid-deck when needed.
The cooler is placed fore and aft for drift fishing seating and
port to starboard for wreck fishing so we can have 360 degree access.
Additionally I have 2 extra aluminum deck chairs that we use for partying,like 4th of July fireworks. I bought my Parker because of its' mega deck space and the flexibility it affords.
 
This subject has been covered many times, though it might be difficult to find doing a search. So... here are the basics:

Before drilling anything, mask the area with at least 2 layers of blue painters tape. Make your measurements and mark on the tape. Depending on the size of the hole to be drilled, use a good quality set of twist-bit drills or a good quality hole saw. Do not try to use one of those economy nested set of hole saws you find in the bargain bin. They will not hold up to fiberglass.

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Coat the interior of the hole with thinned epoxy, especially if there is any core material. This step isn't as critical for solid fiberglass, but is an excellent practice to protect against water intrusion.

Sealant depends on what you are sealing, where it is on the boat, and how long you expect it to last.
Below the waterline, 3M 5200 if you never ever expect to remove the item. 5200 contains a powerful adhesive that is almost impossible to remove.

3M 4200 is the same 'stuff', without the adhesive. Us that if the job is semi-permanent.
Other 3M products such as 101 and life caulk are excellent sealers, but allow you to remove and re-bed as needed.

Silicone is excellent for sealing clamshells used for wiring, because wires need to be replaced every now and then. :wink:
Silicone is also good for deck hatches and similar items.

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That is the short answer... Hopefully others will chime in with their experiences.
 
Just agreeing with the aforementioned use of 5200. We use it on our aluminum survey boats that have been dragged up and down hundreds of rocky shores, and literally worn through the hull strakes on the stern. 2 layers of 5200, mixed with some aluminum shavings has lasted through 5 seasons thusfar, and it still isn't worn off or peeling. The door on a 42' Wesmac lobster hull we work on regularly was 5200'd to the house. When the engine had to come out, they had to remove the door. The 5200 literally ripped the fiberglass around the door when they pried on it.

So yeah, if you ever want to remove it, don't use 5200. Life Caulk is much more removable.
 
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