Pop-Up Cleat upgrade

[DaleH]

Why :?: ? Why not, heavy 8" SS units for only $30 each ... woo hoo!

Just cut in and wetted out the holes today, will attach later, adding humungous frp backing plates with huge fender washers.

 

[striperon]

Nice work, Dale.

 

[Porkchunker]

Nice job Dale.

I've got 4 of those (but smaller) for placing on the Porkchunker (little woodie) when I finish the bottom, and start working on the topsides. Dad had installed some very flyline-unfriendly cleats on her back in the 50's. In fact he had all kinds of dodads that will be getting the heave. She is going to be one great flyfishing boat when I get done with her.

Dave

 

[Megabyte]

Dale, If you want to get rid of those old 10" Herreshoff style cleats, let me know. :wink:

 

[DaleH]

Dale, If you want to get rid of those old 10" Herreshoff style cleats, let me know. :wink:

My '92 only had 8" ones on the washboard amidships, but you're welcome to them .

Progress ... as the above photos weren't sealed with epoxy. Here's the cutout with thinned epoxy saturated into the core. PROTECT your core at all costs!

Yes, that is duct tape on the bottom of the layup, so that the epoxy can be repeatedly 'washed' into the core. Where it pools at the bottom - I leave - trimming just enough to fit my hardware.

 

[Wicho]

Dale - I'm going to need lessons in "protect the core" -...

I'd like to add pop ups in the stern corners and those holes are large.... But thats another future project after:

Kicker Removal..
New Prop
Dodger
Boat Cover...
Spreader lights..
.......



William.....

 

[BuddahB]

I installed these pop-ups from Acon Marine. They only require two 5/16 holes drilled and they flip up rather than pop-up. Either way the pop-ups are nice especially on the stern so they don't get in the way while fishing, but things could be attached for fishing such as flat line clips and drip tubes etc. which is what I use them for mostly. Here's the pics. One is a 6 inch and the other a 4 inch...

 

[Outta Here]

Why the flip-ups/pop-ups if you already have heavy duty hawse pipes to cleats mounted on ribs?

 

[DaleH]

Dale - I'm going to need lessons in "protect the core"

See my recent posts for 'custom teak swim platform" and 'thru-bolting", gives you some options. Easy - simple, - just takes planning and some ... time.

 

[BuddahB]

FishFactory,

I use those cleats for all kinds of stuff. Putting out a fender in a hurry, flatline clips, chum buckets. I find them to really come in handy for a variety of uses... :wink: :wink: :wink:

 

[warthog5]

http://www.classicmako.com/projects/xshark/bw36.htm

What you don't see in those pix's, is where I used a Fostner bit on each mounting hole to remove the top glass and core. Stopping at the bottom glass.

This was then backfilled with epoxy/Cabisol. The next day the inside edge of the core was cut back using a router and a flycut bit. All the edges were then backfilled with epoxy/cabisol.

This will prevent the core from being crushed under tension.

Flycut bit in a diegrinder. Be VERY careful doing this with that setup. It allows you to get into small spaces, but it will not take much to get away from you.

Here's what the cut looks like. this is for the install of the cuddy hatch.

 

[Megabyte]

For anyone who hasn't seen them, the X-Shark project pages are chock full of excellent project tips, like the one Bobby posted above. :wink:

http://www.classicmako.com/projects/xshark/

Good stuff... 8)

 

[DaleH]

FYI ... those cleats I bought for $30 are sold here, (Marine Part Depot) and they're now $36 each, which is a great price for an 8" pop-up cleat. The quality appears great, very beefy design, and the finish is flawless.

 

[DougP]

I need help with my first couple of projects that require drilling into the boat.

The first project is installing the Attwood, 4.5 inch neat cleats, model 66515-7 on the gunells. They require two 7/8 inch holes. No backing plates were with these but can be purchased seperately. I plan to use these cleats for a drift sock and to hold bumpers along the side and temporary use for tying off to the dock while launching and loading the boat.
Should I obtain the backing the plates prior to install? Or can they be added later? The instructions state to use lock tite or similar product on the threaded bolts.

Next question is what type of sealant should I use. I read this thread and Dale used epoxy. I have never used epoxy so I will need detailed advice on what kind (brand/amount) and how you apply "thinned" epoxy. Dealer told me I could use 3M 5200 for this project.

Second project will be intalling the LCX-27 on a Ram mount to the top of the console. What type of sealant do i need for this project?

Third project is intalling the dock bumpers up under the gunells like I found on another post by Dale. Should I use any type of sealant to the screws for mounting to the gunnell and rub rail area?

If you think of any other items besides the sealant/epoxy, blue painters tape, electrical connections and 7/8 inch hole saw that I will need for these projects please add to the list.

Forgot I will install a transom mount transducer for the LCX-27 dual frquency. I purchased a transom transducer mounting plate made of starboard. Should I use a sealant on the screws to mount the plate to the transom? If so which one.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Megabyte]

Backing plates for the cleats... yes. You can buy the ones offered by the manufacturer, or you can fabricate your own.
LocTite is also a good idea. Use the blue rather than the red, as the red is much more permanent.

As for sealant, you have multiple options depending on the application.
3M 5200 should only be used in applications where you have plans to never remove a bedded item. 5200 contains a powerful adhesive and once applied, is pretty close to becoming unremovavle.

3M 4200 has the same sealing properties as 5200, but without the adhesive, and is removable 'with difficulty'.

3M 101, LifeCaulk, and marine silicone are sealants that should be used in applications where you may want to replace an item someday. A good example would be sealing a wiring clamshell for a VHF with silicone.

Electrical components, antennas, and electronics need to be repaired, replaced, and upgraded occasionally, so you want to select a sealant that will allow you to do so when the time comes.

For help in selecting a proper sealant for your application, check out the 3M product line line here:
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... e_Sealant/