Power trim issue

[99Parker2520]

At the ramp last weekend at 4:30 in the morning I was readying the boat to launch off the trailer and when I tried to raise the motor to remove the transom saver the motor would not move nor make a sound. It would activate trying to go down. Tried it at the helm and the same thing....pressed the rocker switch a few times back on the motor and it worked fine. Worked fine for the whole day. I am looking to repair this issue before it happens while out in the boat. Any ideas on the issue? Seems like it could be electrical corrosion inside?

 

[DaleH]

Could be dirty connections at the UP relay or either if the up circuit switches. But buy a spare relay to have ready, when you press UP you still should hear a CLICK even if the trim motor doesn't run. The relay opens the UP signal to provide high voltage power to the motor, for lack of better words ...

 

[Megabyte]

It does sound like the problem is electrical in nature.
What year, make, and model is the motor?

Some things to check...

Good clean ground(s)
Any corrosion of contacts
And as Dale said, the relay

 

[99Parker2520]

Thank you. Its a 2006 Yamaha F250. Yes, it clicks when the up button is pushed on either the helm or on the motor. I tried it today and it will not go up, just down. Got to fix it before next trip and I am on vacation this week and want to use it.

 

[DaleH]

Yes, it clicks when the up button is pushed on either the helm or on the motor. I tried it today and it will not go up, just down.

Well that means the relay is working at that is clicking. Sounds like your trim motor is shot, i.e., the windings won't energize enough power to work UP against gravity, but allow it to goes down. Sometimes rapping the trim motor housing while holding the UP button will stimulate the windings enough to work ... but the diagnosis is the same ... replace or rebuild the trim motor.

FWIW I've changed out at least 1/2 dozen Yam trim motors and always used after-market parts, where the company was ISO 9000 registered (Forget their name but got them on eBay) and they worked great at half the cost of a Yam motor. Sucks that a Yam motor doesn't last 8-years ...

MY experience with a few made me thankful that I had an assortment of socket wobble extensions on hand, even the smaller 1/4" drive ones due to tight access .. if you DIY.

 

[99Parker2520]

Thanks for the help....I will see what I can find on line. Eight years really isn't that long of a life span but in a saltwater environment you never know.

 

[DaleH]

Thanks for the help....I will see what I can find on line. Eight years really isn't that long of a life span but in a saltwater environment you never know.

My average is at least 2X that lifespan and I've never ever had to replace an after-market one even once and always paid $200 or LESS for them ...

Good luck!

 

[warthog5]

Pretty typical of Yamaha's especially.

It's really a POS switch. But they charge $76 for them.

It can be taken apart and cleaned...But I find they don't last and the problem pop's up again when you need it to work the most.

Yamaha in their infinite wisdom has seen fit to pretty much make the actual switch the same for years and years......BUT they change the Damn Plug, so they can sell more switches.

I've cleaned'em and ended up replacing them.

 

[99Parker2520]

So with the clicking it seems to be the motor? Wart seems to be thinking switch. Today I tapped the trim motor and it started working. It is rusting and I do want to replace it. Found one for about $150.00 on-line. My question is where the heck do the power wires end up??? I traced them up into the motor and they are behind a plastic type of air intake...can someone answer how to access these wire ends? I have a picture and will try and post it.

 

[Megabyte]

Those motor covers corrode pretty easily in saltwater.
I cleaned mine as best I could, and repainted it a couple of years ago.
Every spring I give the whole thing a liberal coating of CorrosionX and hope for the best.
Unfortunately, once the motor cover gets a pinhole in it, it's toast.
Mine is a 1997 model, so my time is coming.

Last year I had an issue with my trim/tilt pump.
Lucky for me the boat was still on land when I noticed the pump was leaking fluid.
Local guy rebuilt the pump and she has been good ever since.
It's all maintenance.

 

[DaleH]

His trim motor wires disappear behind this area ...

I think you need to remove the lower cowling half for proper access to the switch.

Anyone else?

 

[DaleH]

... and THIS is what a worn trim motor looks like inside ... all that dust is debris from the brushes breaking down.

 

[99Parker2520]

Dale thank you for posting the picture for me.
The trim motor wires are visible at the bottom of the photo entering the motor, first one to the right and below the trim switch. The wires are inside of a loose sleeve. the "click" seems to be high up behind the top "tube" if you will. I cannot see much behind this plastic housing. Any advice or am I sending it out.

Thanks Jay

Inside of mine probably looks similar

 

[DaleH]

Today I tapped the trim motor and it started working. It is rusting and I do want to replace it.

The 'click' is the relay sending the high voltage to the motor. That means your switch works! As I had said ... if the motor runs while rapping the motor housing, then your motor brushes are worn/shot and you need a new trim motor.

 

[warthog5]

Sorry.. I did not understand before you were getting a clicking....That proves the switch is good....Then you say the trim motor is all RUSTY.....and that you banged it and it started working....OK the rust proves that it's old and needs replacing....The banging you did on it reseated the motor brushes and proves they are worn....Once again proving it needs a motor.


EDIT: And agrees with what Dale just said above.

You don't have to remove the lower cowl to remove the on motor trim switch....There is one bolt and it holds a clamp that holds the switch in place.

 

[DaleH]

You don't have to remove the lower cowl to remove the on motor trim switch....There is one bolt and it holds a clamp that holds the switch in place.

Good to know on Yams, thanks!

 

[99Parker2520]

So the relay is behind the intake on the starboard side of the motor. That is where the trim motor wires connect to....can't see a damn thing. I am pulling this all apart tomorrow. SIM Yamaha has a great site with a lot of information, great spot for Yammy owners to look at

 

[99Parker2520]

good news...I didn't have to pull the wiring apart. I unbolted the trim motor (3" or so in Dales Pic) and was able to remove the armature which looked to be in excellent shape and looked almost brand new. I did need to clean the copper with some 600grit emory cloth as the copper was dirty where the brushes make contact. The rust on the housing was not as bad as I thought. I have had no issues since.