Repairing chips in gelcoat

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Fly Rod

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I was getting the 1801 ready for another fishing season and found a number of small chips in the gunwale:

GelChip.jpg


I've never worked with gelcoat. Assuming I had the matching gelcoat from Parker, can someone tell me if these are the steps? Is there anything missing or any other tips?

1) Tape off repair area.
2) Sand chip area so repair spot is smooth.
3) Clean with solvent
4) Apply gelcoat
5) Sand back to original shape
6) Buff and wax

I found this useful video from Tap plastics on YouTube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWEE6SFUdpg&feature=channel

Thanks for any advice,
Fly Rod
 
Porkchunker's tutorial is one of the most used project posts that you will find on ClassicParker, but it isn't the only one.
Use the Search tool on the 'Projects' area and you will find even more...
 
Found a 1" by 2" impact chip in the bow just under the waterline that put me into a panic last season as I have never worked with gelcoat or fiberglass. Followed the procedures you outlined and found it to be a very simple fix. Almost hard to mess it up, just take your time on the prep.

Only step you need to add is to cover the gelcoat with a plastic sheet to keep the air off during the gelcoat cure.
 
Claymar":2jq4jur3 said:
Only step you need to add is to cover the gelcoat with a plastic sheet to keep the air off during the gelcoat cure.

... unless wax has been mixed in with the glecoat (rises to the surface and cuts off the air) or mold release is sprayed over it, that is ;) .
 
Porkchucker's tutorial is perfect -- I don't know how I missed that one. Regarding methods for curing the gelcoat, the YouTube video mentions three possible methods (2 of which have already been mentioned):

1) covering with mold release.
2) warming the gelcoat with a hair dryer (or putting it in the sun).
3) taping clear plastic over the top.

This looks like a do-able project. Thanks again for all the tips!

- Fly Rod
 
Fly, I followed Porkchuncker's step by step process last year for a 7" gouge on my bow. With Porkchuncker's instructions and a great tip by Dale (wet sandpaper spends more time in water than sanding) the repair turnout flawless. My tip to you is; don’t be afraid, take your time, tape off the area well, keep the wet paper wet, use a sanding block and go sloooooow and don’t press to hard or over do the sanding. I used various grades of wet paper up to the finest I could get to remove scratches (I think it was 1,000 grit wet/dry paper). Once I was finished sanding, I buffed out the area with rubbing compound and a power buffer. I was amazed how quickly it removed the fine scratches left from the sand paper. Best of luck!
 

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