Replacing my parker gas tank

[Marty D]

I'm not taking any chances. Boat 10 years old and I took the boat to Hampton boat works and we open the pie plates and the foam was all wet. They are cutting out the floor and taking the tank out and all the foam. Installing a new tank with epoxy coating and not using the foam. He is building new bulkhead and supports for the tank. He said he may have to use a smaller tank. Was 150 galls. May go with 130 galls. He said when done this tank will last the life of the boat. Price $3500 to $4,000. I don't care, I just want it done right!!!

 

[99Parker2520]

replaced mine two years ago...$1500 for the tank and $2000 for the new deck. Your right in the ballpark and will have years of no tank or deck worries. Good luck!

 

[Marty D]

replaced mine two years ago...$1500 for the tank and $2000 for the new deck. Your right in the ballpark and will have years of no tank or deck worries. Good luck!

Did you reform the take in? Did you car tar it or epoxy tank. How out was the boat?

 

[warthog5]

Build the new ones out of 3/16in alum....It will be 1/3 heavier and 1/3 more expensive [$12gal]

But it will last.

If and when I do mine....Coal Tar epoxied and foam it back in with 4lb density.

 

[99Parker2520]

I did have it made out of 3/16" alum at the builders recommendations. He also had me put strips of poly plastic held in place with 5200 where the tank sits on the stringers just for abrasion purposes. Really just a couple cutting boards from wal-mart with 5200 holding them in place and also sealed around the edges again to prevent water from sitting between the tank and strips. There should not be water there but you never know. The tanks also have four hangers but when fuel is added (174 gallons in my 2520) there needs to be some additional support from below for the weight so he did have me foam in below the tank with the two part 4lb foam for added support. I did ask about the coal tar and he did not think it needed to be done since aluminum forms its own barrier. Others have had very good results in coating the tank so that's up to you either way a new tank will give years of trouble free use. Best piece of mind you will have dealing with fuel is a new tank.

 

[Marty D]

I did have it made out of 3/16" alum at the builders recommendations. He also had me put strips of poly plastic held in place with 5200 where the tank sits on the stringers just for abrasion purposes. Really just a couple cutting boards from wal-mart with 5200 holding them in place and also sealed around the edges again to prevent water from sitting between the tank and strips. There should not be water there but you never know. The tanks also have four hangers but when fuel is added (174 gallons in my 2520) there needs to be some additional support from below for the weight so he did have me foam in below the tank with the two part 4lb foam for added support. I did ask about the coal tar and he did not think it needed to be done since aluminum forms its own barrier. Others have had very good results in coating the tank so that's up to you either way a new tank will give years of trouble free use. Best piece of mind you will have dealing with fuel is a new tank.

He said he going with a thicker tank 3/16 he said he doesn't like cold tar because if it may come off at spots. He like the two part expox. He used a 1/2 inch rubber base for tank to sit on. He will call me when tank is out and we will talk about supports for the sides of tank. I know this guy back in 2000. I all most bought a custom boat from him. He build custom down east boats and knows a lot. He has done many parker gas tanks. He even called parker and ask them to stop useing the foam. He said there are different spec for different boat. They are all USCG approved.

 

[warthog5]

I did ask about the coal tar and he did not think it needed to be done since aluminum forms its own barrier.

That is true......But in the absence of air......where the foam is or standing water it can not form it and this is whay we Coal Tar epoxy it.

he doesn't like cold tar because if it may come off at spots. He like the two part expox.

Poor surface prep and anything will come off.

I start with the 2 rag method with wax & Grease remover. Then the whole tank get sanded with 80gt on a DA sander...Paying close attention to details.

Then 2 rag method again with W&G remover.

Then 2 coats rolled on with a 1/4foam roller designed for epoxies...such as the West system roller covers.


Sanding the surface without using the 2 rag method just pushes oils and grease into the surface.

How do I apply Wax and Grease Remover?

The best cleaning results are obtained by using one cloth dampened with wax and grease remover to initially wipe surfaces using one hand, followed by a clean dry cloth in the other hand to remove lingering residue and moisture.

Be absolutely certain that the cloths you use are clean and completely free from all traces of wax, polish, oil or anything else.

IMPORTANT: Every part of any surface to be painted must be cleaned with a wax and grease remover product prior to the application of paint.

If you don't use such a type of auto surface cleaner, you run the risk of contaminants on the surface ruining an otherwise professionally applied paint job.

While this applies to the painting of cars....It is a good way to clean ANY surface that is to be coated.

 

[Marty D]

You nailed it !! That is what Hampton boats said. Tank must be sanding, cleaned before the two part expox. He likes that beter only because if any straps are on or rubbing on tank, the cold tar will come off and tank will rust at that spot. We will see when tank is out and how he will mount the new one. He also said if there was air going around the new tank he would coat the tank at all. I will take picture. I can't wait to see the bottom if any water is down there. In June when I was having my new motor installed a buddy ask me if he can use my boat slip. I don't know what happen but it sank at the slip. It was only under the water for 3 hours. Today he called me and said his gas tank was leaking. In 3 months the salt water rotted his tank. The tank was also foamed in. That's fast !!

 

[warthog5]

Well I dought that it "just rotted thru" in 3 months. For sure it did not do it any good and the rot had already started.

How old is the boat?

A boat in the water needs to have it's seacocks closed when not being attended. Sometimes you can't....Lets say for example a inlet for A/C.

But you better damn well inspect the plumbing and have it in Excellent condition......As you buddies boat will contest.

 

[Megabyte]

A boat in the water needs to have it's seacocks closed when not being attended. Sometimes you can't....Lets say for example a inlet for A/C.

Very true.

In the past 11 years at my marina, I've seen at least one boat a year sink at the dock.
With powerboats, I's usually a live well or raw water wash down hose that fails (seacock left open).
With sailboats, it's almost always been the seacock for the motor cooling water supply.
Again, a failed supply hose that wasn't checked.

It happens more often that most folks know.

 

[Marty D]

We have over 300 boats at bay colony marina and one or two boats sink every season. Most of the time it was from heavy rain and boats that the cockpit don't have drains and water goes down and the pump kill the battery. All boat should have dock side power with a battery charger. The 2 nd reason they sink is because they didn't close the raw water valve. I walk down the dock and hear the radio or the VHF on all week. Battery goes dead then it rains. Goodby boat.

 

[sailmaster]

the trick to getting epoxy to stick to metal is to sand it in.

Paint the epoxy on to a clean surface and actually use sand paper to create clean new metal under the wet epoxy.
( this is old school from Gougeon )

Obviously use something with a decent working time. If you are going to make a finished surface pigment this first base coat
with a different color so you know if you sand through.