seacock replacement assistance

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Remove top hose/fitting and spray/fill with Kroil or PB-Blaster or some other light PENETRATING fluid. Let sit. Spray outside handle juncture too. Let sit.

Rap around housing with hardwood block or L I G H T L Y with hammer, trying to loosen, NOT damage.

When in doubt ... heat hammer (propane torch) to barely whisker the OD of the bronze (I assume) housing, causing it to heat and expand, not the ballcock. Meaning, have the torch pass OVER or across the side of the housing and not direcly prependicular into it. Take all safety precautions for having an open flame in the bilge.

That should free it, then clean and/or disassemble as you can and force new blue-colored waterproof synthetic grease in and lube, turning and getting lube to cover ballcock and orifice.

FYI - OMC/Bombardier "Triple Guard" grease is ideal and should be used ANYWHERE where grease is called for on a boat, as it will lube when compromised up to 25% with seawater. All OB makers sell their version, but those wearing a Jap label will coadt 2-3x the co$t for the same item.

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Let us know ...
 
Then also remember to turn the handle every month or so to make sure it doesn't freeze up again.
 
a quick update,got it to loosen up,pulled off the hose,sprayed it with WD-40 let it sit overnight,resprayed,then tapped it with a small hammer

thanks,I feel much safer knowing I can shut it,while the boat is in the water!!
 
In2Deep":3rumj4w9 said:
thanks,I feel much safer knowing I can shut it,while the boat is in the water!!

Good job!

The ball valve should be closed when the washdown (or livewell) is not in use.
Many boats have sunk due to an open seacock or ball valve when a hose let loose while the valve was left open!
 
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