Teak

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BigShow

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help i have been on this sight for a while just to steal some info and not too many posts as we just bought our old souwester last year. As we are starting to restore a bit the most obvious is the door. the wood looks very nice underneath but very chippy or something on top. i was down there this weekend without camera but will try to post later this week. my question are this

Do you think the door and molding are teak

and the best way to clean
 
Hi, yes it is teak. But the panel in the door is a teak veneer over a thin plywood layup.

BEWARE that those commercial cleaning agents, like the 3-step products (clean, brighten, & oil) can "hurt" the teak, as the cleaner softens wherever the DARK spots are. Dark spots are actually dirt and where the fibers broke down.

What I did was to use a large floor/pad sander and tried to keep removing a consistent amount so as not to 'dish' any area. I sanded through the dirt, I did not use any chemical cleaners. I was not able to get it 100% (rid of all dimples or checks) but from 3 feet away, you can't tell.

I hit my teak with Sikkens Cetol Marine LIGHT for 2 coats, lightly buffed with a fine sctochbrite in-between. The door was so checked and had some porosity or lifiting of the veneer in places, that I removed it and then "painted" it with thinned self-leveling epoxy. Then the door and frame were coated with 3 or more coats of Interlux Gold Spar clear varnish/polyurethane (hey, that's how the ca nis marked) that has UV inhibitors.

Some just use oil on teak, but I don't like that it doesn't last. Besides, almost all of my teak/mahogany is fully encapsulated in epoxy before varnishing.
 
Awesome Dale thanks for the GREAT input. If it shines half as nice as youirs i;ll be thrilled
Mike
 
Shudda added, ALWAYS sand teak WITH the grain, never go across the grain. Always use a BACKER, specially around any dark areas. Where the wood is dark, the fibers are softer and sand/remove far easier. Need to be diligent in those areas.
 
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