Trolling motor 1801 Parker center consol

[FenwickCrit]

First, I am new to this forum so excuse me if something is done improperly.
This past spring I purchased this 2004 model which is in excellent condition and runs like a charm. I am interested in
installing an electric motor on the bow but I have no clue what size unit to get. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[tomc585]

Welcome. Use the Search Feature in the forum. Many variables to your question. There are a lot of threads with this info.

 

[Longislandfish]

Happy to help.

I have been through this install about 3 years ago and there were far less people and information available for how to install. I installed an 80lb thrust model 24 DCV and the shaft length 60 inches. I choose to go with the Rhodan which IMO is a great product. I did not want auto deploy and dont like the build quality of the Minn kota.

As far as the install here is what I did

I installed the 2 Group 27 batteries in the console with a battery tray which keep them secure and held in place underway
I ran 8 gauge if I remember correctly from the console forward towards the front inspection plate then up the fuel fill chase and under the port gunnel cap to the anchor locker where the wiring terminates at a heavy duty positive locking outlet for the trolling motor. This allows me to remove the motor in a snap and keeps the bow and anchor locker tidy. I bought a hydraulic crimper and did the lugs myself.

I installed the 3 bank battery charger in the console on the forward wall (backside of the console seat. I choose to not screw and holes in the wall and use standoffs that are epoxied to the wall with thickened epoxy. They are called rotoloc and you can buy them on Mcmaster Carr. I did the same with the 50Amp breaker which serves as an on and off switch for the motor as well. Its a straight forward install, You just need to take your time and gather all your materials prior and have a plan.

I used stick on wire tie bases under the gunnel cap which keep the wiring neat and secure. you can also place a short stainless screw in the middle to anchor in as well. The tie wrap will go through a small opening to secure wiring in place once you tighten the wrap.

Let me know if you have any questions

I have the same model boat and year as you and I had no issues with a better than factory install

 

[FenwickCrit]

Happy to help.

I have been through this install about 3 years ago and there were far less people and information available for how to install. I installed an 80lb thrust model 24 DCV and the shaft length 60 inches. I choose to go with the Rhodan which IMO is a great product. I did not want auto deploy and dont like the build quality of the Minn kota.

As far as the install here is what I did

I installed the 2 Group 27 batteries in the console with a battery tray which keep them secure and held in place underway
I ran 8 gauge if I remember correctly from the console forward towards the front inspection plate then up the fuel fill chase and under the port gunnel cap to the anchor locker where the wiring terminates at a heavy duty positive locking outlet for the trolling motor. This allows me to remove the motor in a snap and keeps the bow and anchor locker tidy. I bought a hydraulic crimper and did the lugs myself.

I installed the 3 bank battery charger in the console on the forward wall (backside of the console seat. I choose to not screw and holes in the wall and use standoffs that are epoxied to the wall with thickened epoxy. They are called rotoloc and you can buy them on Mcmaster Carr. I did the same with the 50Amp breaker which serves as an on and off switch for the motor as well. Its a straight forward install, You just need to take your time and gather all your materials prior and have a plan.

I used stick on wire tie bases under the gunnel cap which keep the wiring neat and secure. you can also place a short stainless screw in the middle to anchor in as well. The tie wrap will go through a small opening to secure wiring in place once you tighten the wrap.

Let me know if you have any questions

I have the same model boat and year as you and I had no issues with a better than factory install

Thank you!

 

[Puck-n-Fish]

80lb/24V/60" and batteries in the console is what most of us 1800/1801 owners have installed. Beyond that, we've all done something a little different. Read through some of the old posts and you'll probably end up with a similar configuration differing only in the details.

 

[pelagic2530]

Here’s how I did mine: 1997 1700 Overhaul Project

The difference for you will likely be the mounting location on the bow, if you have the top mounted anchor hatch. Many others have come up with clever solutions, search around a bit and you’ll find them.

60”, 24v, 80lb seems to be the ticket, from your choice of manufacturer. I’ve been very happy with my Minn Kota. If networking with your electronics is important to you, your options will likely be limited (MK with Humminbird, Motorguide with Navico/Simrad/Lowrance). I don’t find that it’s necessary.

 

[warthog5]

I ran 8 gauge if I remember correctly

You could have....and I've seen factory wired Jon boats with that.....But it's to small.

Norm is 6ga........But All of mine are done with 4ga.

Why? I want to give the customer MAX performance.