What capacity bilge pump?

[Hannibal]

Again, let me preface this was an apology due to my "green" experience with boats. I did utilize the search feature but didn't have much luck to definatively answer my question .................

I own a '91 2110 W/A.

After heeding the advice in my latest thread (gunked up bilge), I bought a pellet stove brush/wand and cleared the obstruction that was present between my forward and aft end bilge compartments. In doing so, I got everything drained out nicely. I then went back in and did my first of several scrubbings to the area in the hope I will one day not be embarrased to flip the rear bilge hatch in the presence of Megabyte.

To end the day, I plugged the drain hole and mixed up some water/bleach and dumped it in the bilge hatch. I then added some water to fill up some of the bilge area. I leveled off the boat and added enough water to trip the front bilge pump. At that point, I let it sit for about an hour with the hope it would get any mold that may have developed previously.

After the hour was up - I jacked the nose up to it's normal resting position. At that point, I noticed ........... with all the water piling up in the rear bilge compartment ............. nothing was happening.

I hopped up and looked inside. Water was over the pump and the float was up. Yet nothing. As such, it looks like I will be replacing the pump/float. It worked previously (last time the boat was out). I did check the connections/switches but I think it just plain ole crapped out.

Due to location and being gunked up - I can't read what capacity the current pump is. I don't want to take it out as I plan on using it's placement and wiring as a guide for the new one.

My question is - with having a two pump setup (one forward and one rear) - what size should I be utilizing? I've read up on the possitives of a backup or storm unit ............ and I may do that as well ............ but for THIS one in particular, what should I be looking for?

Are all outlet diameters the same? I don't want to rerun the discharge tubing and/or thru-hull fitting that is currently in place. Does that basically put a cap on what capacity pump I can replace it with?

Sorry for the long posts and dumb questions. I believe I know the answers but with this all being new - I figured someone would KNOW. And I'd trust your KNOW better than my IDEA/GUESS.

Will

 

[Hannibal]

Well, after doing a ton of reading over the past few days, I quickly determined that there really wasn't any "right" answers to my questions ...... or rather, I didn't provide you with the right information to generate an educated response.

Anyhow, I determined that I have a 1100gph pump in the rear bilge.

To replace it, I picked up a 1500 gph unit with a seperate float switch. The outlet on the new pump is 1 1/8" which seems to be a fairly common diamter for anything near 1000 gph/capacity. However, to be safe, I did buy and adapter to fit into the next smallest ID pump figuring if my discharge hose was smaller - it would still work. I also bought clear/smooth hosing to replace the existing corrogated tubing. In a perfect world - the the existing pump is 1 1/8" and I will see a tremendous upgrade in capacity and improving discharge efficiency (due to the change from corrogated to smooth).

After doing some more reading, I elected to purchase a 3-way switch (Auto/On/Off). This way the pump will kick on via the float or I can turn it on manually. I believe I have the wiring aspects down on this. I am going to mount the switch at the helm when I overhaul my switch panel (as I will be cutting into the helm unit anyhow).

I am also interested in adding a warning system to notify me when the pump is working. While I don't sleep on the boat overnight, it's a loud SOB (Evinrude 225) and it's highly doubtful that I'd hear the pump working over the engine noise.

In searching the net, I read that I can add both a 12v light unit (red) AND a buzzer/audible peice to the circuit. It will both light up and make some noise when the pump is turned on (either via the float ....... so I know, or as a test when I manually turn it on).

Is this as simple as buying the light and buzzer from Radio Shack? Does anyone have a wiring diagram of how this should be installed? I am not sure where on the circuit these two items should be installed. I'd like to install both over the main 3-way switch so it is easily seen when under power.

Also, I bought all the electrical components based on my understanding of the pump requirements (this was furthered in the owners manual of the pump itself). But in doing some additional reading, I've confused myself slightly due to length of run, etc.

Both the pump and float come pre-wired with 14-guage wire. However, due to my plans to run the power from the battery to the unit (short but with an inline fuse) - then from the unit to the helm, I opted to run 12-guage. The length of run is 15' at best.

Is this adequate?

Here is the unit with some specs:
Pump - http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... 7&id=84604
Float - http://www.iboats.com/Rule-A-Matic-Merc ... _id.341919
Switch - http://www.amazon.com/Rule-3-Way-Panel- ... B002MYVSAI