Windlass works great

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ppem45

Well-known member
Joined
May 6, 2008
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Location
Charlestown RI
I have decided that I need a Windlass and awhile back I found a Lewmar Horizon 500 at Defender on sale for $349.00 as apposed to the original price of $900.00 so I bought it thinking I would eventually install it. I also found a bow roller in their closeout department and save about $60.00. One of the problems that existed and I was not aware of until I saw grouperjim's post on his installation was that if you mount it too far forward the rode will not lay right in the anchor locker. The existing anchor locker door was in the way of centering the windlass over the locker. The door needed to go and I removed it and I cutl the shelf inside that holds the anchor and filled the opening with Penske board and finished and gelcoated the deck. I installed the windlass and wired it directly from the battery switch with #8 wire and a 25amp fuse and from the dashboard switch to the windlass I used #10 wire. It has 275' of 1/2" plait line with 25' of 1/4" chain and it lays in the locker perfectly. I want to thank Jim for all the help with this project, this site is such an asset to my boating and fishing hobbies, there's not too much information that you cannot get on this forum.
 

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you got it done......looks great. now about those cleats..........might be tough to tie off with them that far forward of the bow roller. a minor adjustment.

What's that white stuff on the ground? :shock: :mrgreen:
 

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Great Job and Jim was the guy to learn from on this one. He had been struggling with that windlass/line issue for a while until he finally got fed up with screwing around with it and undertook that project.

Since he repositioned everything, I don't think he's had ONE hiccup with his windlass...

(He is right about the cleats).
 
optimaxfish":nsz1aflh said:
Wondering about those gold clamp-on rod holders.........Do "grouperjim fishermen" fish for grouper off the bow?

even i will stoop so low as to fish for/catch a kingfish..................

turn the engine hard over to one side for a sideways drift. now you have 31ft of spread out there with lines off the pulpit, kites amidship and lines out near the stern. catch KF, Hoo, mahi, sails, you name it.
 
I know what you mean about the cleats Jim, but I thought that I might put one rught under the line up close to the windlass. There is plenty of clearance without having to worry about the rode getting caught up in it and I would put it port to starboard as opposed to fore and aft. I will experiment with it when I get her in the water.
 
I had the oportunity to try out my new Windlass today and I can't believe I have gone all these years without one. I had changed out my Delta and put my homemade Wreck anchor on and at one point it got hung up and my Lewmar Horizon 500 pulled it up and 2 of the tines were bent straight out, it's b&%@zy. I like the fact that you don't have to pull up the anchor by hand. Thanks grouperjim for the idea and the help, it was well worth it.
 

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:) glad she performs well.........and on the first try. you are definitely a skilled craftsman by what i have seen. glad you could benefit from my "lessons learned".
 
I didn't realize that I had not posted a picture of the finished project. Here it is all finished and working great. I mounted the cleat in front of the windlass to have a solid place to tie off the anchor when it is in use. You can see that I mounted it Port to Starboard so as to keep the line from getting hung up on it.
 

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Very Nice! Good Job.

Did you use any sort of backing plates or extra large washers underneath?

How thick was the insert that replaced the locker?
 
I did use some very large SS washers on the bottom side and the thickness is actually 2 1/2" Penske board and two thick hand laid double layers of fiberglass . Penske board is a very strong board that has claims of being as strong as fiberglass of the same thickness. I got the anchor hung up pretty good yesterday and the windlass let me know it was working when it bent the hell out of my homemade wreck anchor before releasing in the rock structure we were fishing over.
 
That is amazing, he did a great job and what caught my eye right away was that he did the same thing with his bow cleat as I did, turned it sideways so as not to let the chain get hung up. I give him an A+ for the craftsmanship and inagination to think the idea up but at the marina that I am at now charges for pulpits and engine brackets. For years I did not have to worry about it but now it'a all about dollars.
 
ppem45":1jso04a0 said:
the marina that I am at now charges for pulpits and engine brackets. For years I did not have to worry about it but now it'a all about dollars.

That is nonsense... but I know that a lot of yards are doing that.

My yard still goes by the manufacturers figures... and Parker still measures from stem to transom (thank goodness!).
 
Yeah, your right Kevin but I can understand it where I am because I was in a 22' slip before and when I launced this year my azz end was sticking out there like a sore thumb with the extra 3' on her and a 1' bow roller. I have had it real good for years so I understand he can't make any exceptions without it being seen by others and his reputation and integrity is on the line if he is seen favoring one person. I can deal with it.
 
ppem45":2ttm0mqr said:
I cutl the shelf inside that holds the anchor and filled the opening with Penske board and finished and gelcoated the deck.
That is exactly what I need to do! I was fishing Catalina this past weekend and just added more chain before the trip, mistake! I had the wife with me so she was no help, other than to laugh at me.
Anyway, back on point, how did you get the factory non-skid look into your gel coat, or did you not bother with non-skid?
Thanks for the great post and pictures.
Sean
 
The gelcoat on the bow is actually put on with a roller and I add silica sand to the paint and you have to take your time and roll it every way until it looks like the rest of the paint. It takes patience but is do-able and be sure to tape off your drains so it comes out like a factory finish.
 
ppem45":1zx2ajss said:
The gelcoat on the bow is actually put on with a roller and I add silica sand to the paint and you have to take your time and roll it every way until it looks like the rest of the paint. It takes patience but is do-able and be sure to tape off your drains so it comes out like a factory finish.
OK, thanks, did not kow about the roller trick. Is there a specific size of sand, I know from bead blasting that there are different size grains (now it is getting technical) and what did you mean by taping off the drains, I can't figure that one out. I apologize for the many questions, I just want to do it right the first time.
Thanks
 
What I mean by the drains is, the smooth area around the edge of the non skid. It is what lets the water and debris flow freely away and it is like framing the non skid. When you are rolling the non skid be sure to keep mixing the paint so it will come out even and dont' be afraid to roll the heck out of it until it is to your satisfaction if you get too much silica sand on it just roll it with the roller without any paint on it. As far as the grit for the silica sand goes, I just order it and it has always been the same fine sand. Hope this helps you and if I can help you with anything else, just ask. Peter
 
OK, got it. when you said drains I was thinking scuppers and got confused, but is all makes sense now. From the sound of it I will have to order some more gelcoat, but first have to find a smoking deal on a windlass like you did.
Thanks again.
Sean
 
EDIT: Nevermind, I was getting Penske board confused with Starboard....see, I told you that I get easily confused.
OK, one more thing, any tips on glassing in the board?
Thanks
Sean
P.S.I am scared as I have never worked with such a large hole/project on my boat before. :shock:
 
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