Windlass

[ppem45]

I have a 2120 Sport Cabin and would like to install an anchor windlass. I have never installed one and have know idea of what kind to buy,what size anchor or how to install the windlass. Any help and ideas would be appreciated, thank you. Peter

 

[Megabyte]

If you're going to add a windlass, the first thing to consider is how you are going to mount and store your anchor. Most folks do so by using an anchor pulpit.

You will also need to remove that combo bow light and put separate port and starboard lights on as you see in the photo above.

As far as what windlass to buy, you will notice that I do not have one so that question is better answered by those here who have personal knowledge. :wink:

Good luck with your project!

 

[ppem45]

Thanks Kevin, I don't really want to install a pulpit as I will be charged at my marina and I don't want to have to pay for 2 more feet. On my last boat I installed a SS anchor mount and it did the job with no problem. I did not have a windlass however. I am hoping that there is someone out there with pictures to look at. Thanks again, Peter

 

[Seaotter]

Peter...

Check your PM in reference to your inquiry about the floor. I also added some additional info about the windlass...hope it helps!

 

[BradV]

From what i understand there are two types of windlass. one that spins sideways and one that spins up and down. the one that spins sideways is a lower profile but requires more room underdeck for the lower section of the unit. the other one that spins up and down like the Lewmar Profish sits on top of the deck. I would imagine its a matter of preference and space as to which one works for you. I chose the Profish because with the pilot house im over to the side so i dont notice the windlass. Plus its a freefall model. I would recommend a freefall model unless you dont anchor in anything more than 20 feet. It gets very boring holding the button to make the anchor come back up.

 

[Porkchunker]

Probably one of the trickiest parts is to get the windlass positioned so that the rode drops into the anchor locker and the rode coils neatly. If not properly positioned, you end up with a bird's nest mess in the locker that won't go back up through the hawse pipe.

I'd call Parker Marine and ask them for a template or guidance on where to mount the windlass before making any cuts/holes.

Dave

aka

 

[BuddahB]

Here's my install on a 25SE. A simple Windline bowroller with a profish 700 windlass. You'll have to lose the combo light on the front and split them either side. And don't forget to put some type of safety device on the chain in case of an accidental deploy. I did mine with a friend who is pretty professional at this, and make sure any holes drilles are sealed up real good with thinned epoxy or something to protect the wood core.
Also, if you notice here the LED side lights selected don't exactly fit the contour of the boat, they were originally cocked to try and align but wouldn't display proper degrees of foward lighting they have since been turned to properly display but don't exactly fit right but at least they work properly. Good luck

 

[ppem45]

You did a real nice job on your installation, that is the kind of job I did on my Aquasport but I did not have the electric windlass. I did use the S/S and I was thinking of that. I also used the Delta. Thanks for the ideas and I will post when I get er done. How was the electrica hook-up, did you need to installl an extra battery?

 

[BuddahB]

No, down the port side under the gunnel to down under deck to under center console and to the buss bar for a power connection. You need some thick wire though, I believe 8 or 10 gauge. The whole deal works pretty good and saves alot of fights with the wife. Occasionally, you sometimes need to give the anchor an initial "shove" to get it dropping freefall. I'm sure I could modify the anchor in such a way that it would not load so far back in the anchor roller. It's just short of having enough nose weight to drop sometimes, especially after a significant down time. Also, and occasional spray of WD40 or something on it seems to keep things in working order also. It does take some getting used to dropping and setting it at first, but you quickly learn. Just practice in secluded areas and remember when bringing it up, try to put boat at least in gear and edge over to it while retreiving until directly over anchor avoiding the windlass to work to hard.
Also, you can see on the lower left side of the console is where the operating switch is mounted. The Parker console is "Very" thick so when mounting stuff there you'll probably need to counter drill from the inside. Good luck.

 

[ppem45]

Thanks so much, that is very good insight. I only use an anchor when we fish for Tautog in the early Spring and in the Fall. What we do is make these really cheap anchors out of either Ready Rod or just some simple 3/8" rod we get at Home Depot and we bend all the tines together and when it is done it costs us around $10.We use these because we are always fish in the rockiest areas we can find that hold the fish. I want to have a nice anchor on the bow at all other times but this will save us "Old Men" from having to pull the anchor. Sometimes it dosen't come up too easy and it bends the tines so we carry a 1' length of pipe with us just to straighten them out. This anchor works very well and at the end of the season it is usually in pretty bad shape so we just break out a new one for the next year. I am sure this Windlass will do the job for me. Thanks so much for all the info. This site is great isn't it? Peter