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Adjust the throttle linkage at the motor end so that the engine idles at 700-800 rpm. I'd venture a guess that you are currently set to idle at 600 rpm

Nope. I wouldn't. If it was a 2hr drive ..... yes. 10 hours ...... no way

All boats are selling crazy high right now. Parker 23 DVCC are higher than that. The good: It's a Parker with a solid motor The not-so-good: No bracket and no T-top and few electronics. Selling it today: If you advertise at $35k it will likely be sold in a few days. Maybe $40k and...

Great performance numbers with the F300 ...... WOT of 51mph and 4100 cruse at 33mph is pretty darn good with a cabin boat. If I remember correctly, you purchased an ECO 18" prop?

First, most Armstrong brackets use powercoat or a epoxy paint. You can't get either from Armstrong. But, any color match will work. It can be a single part Interlux/Pettit paint or a 2-part paint. As long as you color match, you'll never see the repair.

Autopilot is a feature that you don't think you need until you've owned a boat with it. Nice trip!

Thanks for this reminder. You are very correct.

Calculated by the Yamaha Commandlink and calculated by the Raymarine MFD which is connected to the ECU on the motor. Both systems have been field-verified to be 99.x% accurate (based upon multiple fuel tank refills of known volumes vs estimated depletion). Common-man ...... I'm a numbers...

Not sure I'm following your logic or even what you are trying to state. Yes...... higher pitched props GENERALLY get better mpg (fuel economy) assuming that the boat/motor combination is still reaching the recommended WOT rpm of the manufacturer. For example, a 18" prop at 5800 rpm (WOT) but...

I had a 17" ECO on a 2300 DVCC with a F300. With a normal load I was at 6100rom (and possibly hitting the rev limiter.... not sure). In short, 17" wasn't enough prop. So I got an 18" ECO from Ken at Prop Gods. Max RPM went to 5800-5850 (perfect) and my speed and fuel economy both improved...

Yamaha offers Synthetic, Semi Synthetic and a traditional mineral (Dino) oil for outboards..

Any of the props with a large blade area and aggressive cupping do well with the Parker hulls. These props include the Mercury Mirage, Mirage Plus, Enertia ECO and the Yamaha Saltwater Series. It sounds like you have a Yamaha SWS prop.

If it makes you feel good spending extra $$ on "marine oil" then that's exactly what you should do. The truth of the matter, is that you will never see any difference in wear/tear on your F300 engine using Walmart-brand oil vs Amsoil as long as you change it every 100 hours. Engine don't...

Most likely not. The AUX charging system on the F300 is 35 amps as I recall. It wouldn't have a 100-amp breaker.

That's a strange one! 100amp breaker must control something quite large yet all the systems "work" when switched off? Trace the wires. See where it goes. That will tell you what the breaker controls.

Yes .... windlass. Same location on my boat with a windlass. You might also have another circuit breaker (30 amps?) for the rest of the boat's electrical systems

Marshall - Did I see that you are selling the 2300?

That's only $65 to change the oil vs Mobil 1 at $25. Mobil has a lot of skin in the game. Amsoil does too ..... but not nearly the volumes as Mobil. Anti-corrosion? Isn't that what all oil does? I've never heard of an engine failing due to internal corrosion.

Someone gave you bad advice. With great certainty, the 3.3 liter F200 and F225 engines are non-interference engines. Breaking a timing belt isn't common but it can happen especially when the tensioner pully freezes-up. As long as you didn't attempt to run the engine with a broken belt for...

I had mine mounted as high as they would go without any problems. If you don't want to go that high, place the engines in the 4th hole.