Search results

My 2012 21 SE has the fuel fill and fuel tank connected via green wire to battery negative, which is in turn connected to the engine negative (via the engines battery cables). So yes, it has a grounding system. The bronze through hull, tabs, swim platform stanchion, and underwater lights are...

If the top is solid it should be a typical installation. If cored, either de-core and fill with thickened resin then drill, or sleeve with fiberglass tube whatever passes through the top. I'd probably de-core and fill will six10 then drill.

You will probably get more money for a running/driving boat than a hull, not as many buyers for the latter, but it's a weird time so who knows. If a good used F150 is $6-8k, I'd deduct that from the complete boat price, plus a little more for the hassle of finding and installing an outboard.

Red/White surface mount with integrated dimming, mount it with the wires hidden. Very clean. https://www.lumiteclighting.com/aurora-dome-light-surface-mount.html

I'd mount the pie plate on the underside of the box for a cleaner look and to minimize water intrusion. Goin a step farther, buy a second insert and cut a notch in the edge so you can pass the cables through, tighten down a half turn and the whole thing isn't open to the elements. I'd look...

I would call Boat Outfitters or someone similar who can fabricate Starboard and have them make a custom set. I think Seafoam starboard is a very close color match, and I've seen off-white vertical rodholders at a couple local dealers that match the cream/Seafoam color well. Boat Outfitters is...

I like the idea of twin 300/350s, boat should fly...

If you go with a broker, find someone who is knowledgeable and close to the boat. You want them to know what it is and be easy for them to show.

Get the stand alone controller, and mount it somewhere easily accessible that you don't have to reach for. Ideally where you can keep your hand on it when running.

If you're replacing the deck, why not cut the deck around the perimeter of the console, and pull the deck section up with the console? For all we know the top layer of glass will separate from the wet wood. Then you can attack the deck remnants, maybe even lay the console on it's side.

Me too. Great backer plate, never corrodes, holds threads well, paints beautifully, loves epoxy and plexus.

Drill the perimeter with a small bit, then clean out and epoxy in some 1/2" G10 rod. Then either through bolt or drill and tap. Just keep the 1/2" OD in mind when you're drilling it out. https://www.mcmaster.com/8669K17/

I used the old wire to pull a new one, only after finding out that Parker butt spliced the anchor light and aft flood negative wires together inside the tube, so watch out for that. Maybe leave a line in place to make pulling something in the future easier.

I would barrier coat because it it acts as an adhesion promoter for the bottom paint. Dewax and prep before application. You can do it yourself but it's not a fun job and might be best left to a yard. Any of the big name two part epoxy based barrier coats will be fine. It's not cheap but it...

Once you figure out a plan, I am interested in you existing seat buckets and cushions.

I have seen a couple with 225hp, including two that repowered with the new Merc v6 225.

I am seriously considering a new V6 Merc 200 or 225 to replace my 2012 F150 on a 21SE

I think that's a fair dealer trade in. Let's say you had the dealer list it for you, and you agreed to sell it for $30,000. Commission is $3k (10%), and the buyer found a couple things that you had to fix for $2k. Now you're at $25k net to you. Now that you (and the rest of us here) know...

Are the pedestals smooth or ribbed? I need the ribbed ones.

Thanks, let me know what you find