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My boat s about 10,000 lbs. Here, I am rafted with 3 other boats. I have a 12 volt key fob remote Minkota trolling motor mounted on the front of my boat. In calm waters I was able to successfully raft all of us to another 'troubled' houseboat. http://72land-n-sea.blogspot.com/2014/1 ...

Or, using a piece of ~1/2" Starboard make a plate you can attach to the transom using the old transducer holes http://72land-n-sea.blogspot.com/2013/0 ... plate.html ...hold a piece of paper on the old mounting area and dimple the old holes - transfer this to the new plate. Then mount the plate...

You don't usually get to pick both pitch and diameter... I've found for best economy and control, pitch to the low end of the RPM range. For best performance (holeshot), prop to the high end. 17p is a good place to start.

To remove old silicone I use a brass wheel on a Dremel. This will leave a dark mark on the gelcoat which can be easily removed with acetone. http://72land-n-sea.blogspot.com/2011/0 ... -5200.html

I bought the winch on eBay for <$100. The handle was extra but you don't really need one as the winch is only one way - it will ratchet in, but lock from going out...when you can't pull in, give the motor a bump or cleat it off and do whatever you think will help.. I'm a bit of a rebel and with...

Sailboat halyard winch...I never needed the handle.

Didn't know there was a commercial unit available -- thanks, now I know it's a sound practice. But at $170 I'd be tempted to make my own. Here's all the circuitry in one package for $7.60. http://www.amazon.com/Absolute-Holder-R ... ds=ARSPACK Here's a battery @ $40...

I don't have a problem with electronics dropping out when starting, but if I did why couldn't I install a small AGM battery at the helm between the positive and negative busses in the picture above...maybe with a NC relay on the plus side in front of the feed that would open with the starting...

My first thought would be a bad battery.

You might learn something here to avoid punching holes in your boat: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ciy1najrIFE

My primary pump is a diaphragm pump (self priming) that is mounted in a location where it's easily accessible. The pickup is mounted on a brass plate along with a Water Witch sensor. This setup gets the bilge as dry as possible since the Water Witch runs for 10 seconds after it quits sensing...

For bilge cleaning I like Joy 'cause it lathers in salt water. Then I go to the Dollar Store, get a bottle of fabric softener and douse the bilge with half of it. It has a mild pleasant smell.

Here's another option... http://72land-n-sea.blogspot.com/2015/0 ... ation.html

Mokee Birth

3M 5200 can take a week or more to fully cure, BUT it does seal when when soft and I wouldn't use anything else. Check out the last paragraph in this blog entry for how to get the most out of 5200. http://72land-n-sea.blogspot.com/2011/0 ... plies.html

There's a great campground with marina/ramp at Bahia Honda. http://bahiahondapark.com/

I can totally understand the desire to make things as good as possible... but it's been my experience that the biggest benefit of moving the motor up or down is satisfying your curiosity. For a 70 mph bass boat, maybe, for an offshore fishing boat - hardly. I know, I know -- I had to do it...

Cypress bunks will likely last the life of the trailer, although you may want to replace the carpet regularly.

It all depends on what you expect. If you want to pull 10,000 lbs 70 mph up Colorado mountain passes there's no substitute for horsepower. If you just want to get back and forth to the ramp, that's another story. I pull 12,000 lbs with 300HP...sometimes thousands of miles (@ 9mpg). If you don't...