battery issues

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stripbait

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hey guys I have a 2013 2520 with o 300 Yamaha it came with 2 starting batterys iam having issues with my electronics turning off when restarting it iam thinking on replacing with 3 duel purpose batterys how would I go about doing so do i use the factory switch witch has 1 or 2 both or off switch or go with a bep set up or bluesea system how would I wire this thanks for any infor
 
I would solve electrical issues first. Check and clean every battery connection and if using wing nuts discard and use hex nut with washer and locker washer or nylon nut. Check the wires on engine side are tight and clean. Also what is the voltage when engines are on? Check the wiring to electronic device is clean and tight
 
everything has nuts no wing nuts all connections are good it is a but 2013 I think 2 starting batterys not a lot of reserve I think I need a duel purpose battery but was thinking of putting in a isolater for batterys just puttint out feelers what everyone use I just have a factory switch it does 1 or 2 both an off just looking at other options thanks
 
My electrical needs are fairly modest.
No radar and no thumping stereo.
LED lighting, chart plotter, fish finder, VHF, and other assorted low drain stuff.
Outboard is an OX66, so it doesn't have unreasonable power requirements.

If you have high-draw house items, go with something big, tho most of us don't have room for a 4D.
If you do (have room), they make awesome house batteries.
Group 31's can be used for both starting duty as well as normal house duty if wired correctly.

When I needed new batteries, I got the biggest Lifeline AGM's that I could stuff in the space allotted for my batteries.
They are connected to a Guest charger for topping off, and do not come off the boat in winter (or ever).
Big, heavy, and expensive... but they work.
 

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The whole problem lies in that switch.....Which ever batt is selected it is the Start and house battery.... When you hit the key..... The made rush of current and voltage drop goes below what the electronics can stand and they drop out......Known as Spiking the electronics. It's not good for them.

Search BEP Cluster Switch on here..... I've written about it Many Many times in the past.

I'm redoing mine here in a week or two. I already have a BEP cluster switch in the boat..... But the newest Digital ones are slightly different.

There is a small Red wire on the back of the relay that is different. It will shut power to the relay and not be draining mv all the time. The old ones didn't do that and after months can pull a battery down slightly.

I installed a amp last year , cause my son wanted it. I must admit it does sound better. But have been against them due to mass consumption of a house battery.

The batteries in the boat now are a Gp24 Starting and Gp27 deep cycle for the house. The new will be a Gp27 Starting and a 4D House battery. It has more power than 2- Gp27's in parallel.


This is the one you want for single engine......... http://www.bepmarine.com/en/716-sq-140a-dvsr

Be sure when you go to that link to click on Tech Data and then the PDF. I always leave out the optional fuse between the House batt and switch.



EDIT: The factory "Perko " batt switches...... I've thrown away a Whole bunch of those after installing BEP clusters in single and twin motor vessels.
 
thanks warthog I think iam going to redo everything get the dep cluster set up an 2 new batterys what ur suggesting for battery brand Iam thinking 1 duel purpose for engine an 1 or 2 for house hook them in parallel or a 4d if can fit down in floor near stearn were factory put the batterys now who makes a good brand battery thanks
 
This is what I bought..... They are Interstate batteries.

There are actually only a few manufactures that make batteries. Johnson Controls is one of them. But Interstate has a pretty good reputation.
Trojen would be another. I have a Interstate Dist. about 20mi away.

Seek out a distributor and buy direct.....You'll save some money.

27M-XHD
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/m/ca ... e/starting

SRM-4D
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/m/ca ... /deepcycle


20160120_132923_zpsuvzu3hco.jpg


I then had to decide on building a tray for the 4D [there are no trays manufactured that I could find] or buying a battery box for it.

I searched High and Low and different brands.....I put a make offer on one on ebay, but the guy never got back to me. I then went to a what I would call a higher end battery box... From Moller to Noco.

I found this place....They are not a high priced marine place....But the product is the same at 1/2 price.

http://www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/index.htm

Battery Box:

http://www.allbatterysalesandservice.co ... ,9097.html
 
Here's the BEP drawing.... It's a little different than the old relay.

The old ones would pull about 2mv all the time, even with the switch's OFF. This new style solves that problem.

I've notated the drawing. That small Red wire gets cut..... Be SURE to cut it correctly! Then it is hooked to the

Start switch.... When the Start switch is turned OFF it denergizes the Relay and thus no 2mv draw.


IMG_zpsepwrxgxh.jpg
 
I don't have a problem with electronics dropping out when starting, but if I did why couldn't I install a small AGM battery at the helm between the positive and negative busses in the picture above...maybe with a NC relay on the plus side in front of the feed that would open with the starting circuit? This would guarantee 12 volts to the electronics while starting even if both house and starting batteries were low? How many amps do your electronics draw?
 
stripbait":8gsy046f said:
how big of a breaker u put in line

Depends on your Load [what you have to power up and your wire gage size.] But a 40 or 50 amp breaker is norm.


Jeffnick..... There already is a product that is like that.... I installed one on my small boat before the BEP cluster were available back in '98.


It's call "Startguard" http://www.powerwerx.com/emergency-vehi ... start.html


It has a small battery inside.... That battery gets charged when motor is running. It is wired via the ign key switch. It drops inline when you hit the key.
 
How many amps do your electronics draw?

Add them up. Here's mine:

Garmin VHF 200 10 amp fuse
Garmin 4212 7.5 amp fuse
Garmin 6208 7.5 amp fuse
Garmin GSD 26 10 amp fuse

Now that's not what the draw is... But you use those numbers for calculation.
 
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