2002 2320 repower question

[capecodparker2320]

Looking at repowering and fuel tank replacement for my 2002 2320 over the winter. Fuel tank is not leaking at present but I figure it is due and just as soon get the work done before it becomes a problem. Plan is to install a Yamaha 250. Anything else I should be checking with this particular hull before moving ahead with this project? The boatyard that services my boat is a Yamaha dealer and I am very pleased with the service they provide. Thanks in advance for all comments!

 

[John_Madison CT]

MV or DV hull?

 

[warthog5]

Looks like you've already made up your mind. There are mods I'd do for the new tank being built.
Go from 1/8in to 3/16
add a thicker piece of alum to drill & tap for the sender and make SURE the screws had TefGel applied.
add a rear vent T'd into the original vent.
Tank properly prepped for 2 coats of Coal Tar epoxy
Tank lagged in and foamed with 4lb density
fiberglass between coffin and tank top.
Limber hole installed on coffin aft bulkhead to drain any water that got on top of tank.

All these are a lot of work and "some" shops will be relucent to do them and try and talk you out of them.

 

[Mpellet]

Looking at repowering and fuel tank replacement for my 2002 2320 over the winter. Fuel tank is not leaking at present but I figure it is due and just as soon get the work done before it becomes a problem. Plan is to install a Yamaha 250. Anything else I should be checking with this particular hull before moving ahead with this project? The boatyard that services my boat is a Yamaha dealer and I am very pleased with the service they provide. Thanks in advance for all comments!

If I was to replace my tank again, I would not have a fuel sending unit installed. As time passes, the gasket , screws etc around the sending unit are a very likely source for fuel leak and the new engines all tell you how much fuel you’ve burned and that data is far more accurate then in tank fuel tank sending units that are both unreliable and inaccurate.

I’d skip the sending unit entirely….

 

[Erjdrivr]

I

Looking at repowering and fuel tank replacement for my 2002 2320 over the winter. Fuel tank is not leaking at present but I figure it is due and just as soon get the work done before it becomes a problem. Plan is to install a Yamaha 250. Anything else I should be checking with this particular hull before moving ahead with this project? The boatyard that services my boat is a Yamaha dealer and I am very pleased with the service they provide. Thanks in advance for all comments!

Looking at repowering and fuel tank replacement for my 2002 2320 over the winter. Fuel tank is not leaking at present but I figure it is due and just as soon get the work done before it becomes a problem. Plan is to install a Yamaha 250. Anything else I should be checking with this particular hull before moving ahead with this project? The boatyard that services my boat is a Yamaha dealer and I am very pleased with the service they provide. Thanks in advance for all comments!

I would consider a 300HP for your repower. Just my 2 cents

 

[warthog5]

f I was to replace my tank again, I would not have a fuel sending unit installed. As time passes, the gasket , screws etc around the sending unit are a very likely source for fuel leak and the new engines all tell you how much fuel you’ve burned and that data is far more accurate then in tank fuel tank sending units that are both unreliable and inaccurate.

The simplicity of a analog fuel gauge will never go out of style. I want to know How much fuel I have and when I had my Parker I modified it. It had 1 gauge and a switch to see what was in each of the 2 tanks. This was changed to better / more acurate sender's and dual gauges. Boat was single engine. I could just move the fuel valve on the fly to keep boat balanced better.

While seeing the actual fuel burn numbers is really nice... Being able to watch a gauge actually move when filling was another benefit. Slowing down the fuel fill rate so it didn't splash fuel all back out the fill pipe when full.

Yes...sending gaskets can leak. But it's not a big deal to change one and should be a check point once in a while.
I've seen manufactures start to go to No gauges at all and use the gauge pack on the MFD..... Thats the stupidest thing I've ever seen!
Display engine gauges and how is the Chartplotter / FF supposed to be displayed? I put 2 Multifuction gauges 3 3/4in when I Repowered with Suzzy. Normally you get 1 and then you hit buttons. I want to see info without hitting buttons.

Now back to your sender deal. Original tanks were 1/8in material. I spec the new ones at 3/16in....Then I build a alum ring that is 3/8in thick. It's drilled and tapped for a 5 hole sender. I have it welded to the tank where the sender is supposed to be. This gives better threads for holding and the machine screws do not penertrat the 3/16 tank skin. TeffGell is applied to the stainless screws.

 

[capecodparker2320]

Thanks for all the great comments!

My boat is a DV.

After having to deal with the fuel sender a few years ago, I definitely am insisting that a 3/8" thick aluminum ring with tapped holes for the sender will be part of the new tank.
I am also planning to have an extra ground tab added to the tank as the connected ones always corrode.
Not sure I understand the need for a rear vent?

I am still considering the 300 vs 250 but leaning toward the 250. Need to decide by 12/15 to be able to take advantage of current Yamaha promotion (6 year warranty included). One dealer in my area claims to have a customer who recently replaced a Yamaha 250 with 300 and was not pleased with the increased power and added cost of having to run 89 octane fuel.

 

[Mpellet]

The simplicity of an analog fuel gauge will never go out of style. I want to know How much fuel I have and when I had my Parker I modified it. It had 1 gauge and a switch to see what was in each of the 2 tanks. This was changed to better / more acurate sender's and dual gauges. Boat was single engine. I could just move the fuel valve on the fly to keep boat balanced better.

While seeing the actual fuel burn numbers is really nice... Being able to watch a gauge actually move when filling was another benefit. Slowing down the fuel fill rate so it didn't splash fuel all back out the fill pipe when full.

Yes...sending gaskets can leak. But it's not a big deal to change one and should be a check point once in a while.
I've seen manufactures start to go to No gauges at all and use the gauge pack on the MFD..... Thats the stupidest thing I've ever seen!
Display engine gauges and how is the Chartplotter / FF supposed to be displayed? I put 2 Multifuction gauges 3 3/4in when I Repowered with Suzzy. Normally you get 1 and then you hit buttons. I want to see info without hitting buttons.

Now back to your sender deal. Original tanks were 1/8in material. I spec the new ones at 3/16in....Then I build an alum ring that is 3/8in thick. It's drilled and tapped for a 5 hole sender. I have it welded to the tank where the sender is supposed to be. This gives better threads for holding and the machine screws do not penertrat the 3/16 tank skin. TeffGell is applied to the stainless screws.

I can tell you how much fuel is in my tank within 5 gallons anytime with no gauge monitoring whatsoever aside from log book keeping and fuel added during full ups. Combine that with the precise fuel burn #s that my engine delivers makes the analog data provided by notoriously inaccurate and prone to leaking fuel sending units not only unnecessary but a liability…..

 

[warthog5]

nI am also planning to have an extra ground tab added to the tank as the connected ones always corrode.
Not sure I understand the need for a rear vent?

Corrosion is caused by the fact that it's in a damp enviorment and disimmler metals [alum/stainless

Rear Vent - Have you ever filled a large tank and had to fill it at a slower rate than Wide Open?

This is a venting problem. Some tanks you can fill wide open till you have to put that last 25gal in and then you have to creep that last fuel in....20/25gals is a bunch of fuel and it takes Forever.

The extra vent in the rear tied /T'd into the original vet hose makes this not happen.

 

[warthog5]

One dealer in my area claims to have a customer who recently replaced a Yamaha 250 with 300 and was not pleased with the increased power and added cost of having to run 89 octane fuel.

The guy probelly runs ethonal fuel also. I run 91 Non ethonal in all my boats and small engines.

A 8ft beam X 23ft boat performs Well with a 250.
No one ever wished they had less HP.

Now... With all that said... I would not plunk my hard earned $ down on a Yamaha.

Suzuki.... Because they are Cheaper, Quieter They Swing a Larger prop due to the Lower Gear ratio... This equates to a better Grip on the water.

 

[logan24]

Thanks for all the great comments!

My boat is a DV.

After having to deal with the fuel sender a few years ago, I definitely am insisting that a 3/8" thick aluminum ring with tapped holes for the sender will be part of the new tank.
I am also planning to have an extra ground tab added to the tank as the connected ones always corrode.
Not sure I understand the need for a rear vent?

I am still considering the 300 vs 250 but leaning toward the 250. Need to decide by 12/15 to be able to take advantage of current Yamaha promotion (6 year warranty included). One dealer in my area claims to have a customer who recently replaced a Yamaha 250 with 300 and was not pleased with the increased power and added cost of having to run 89 octane fuel.

I have a 1998 23' DV with a bracket. I repowered mine with a brand new 2022 4.2l Yamaha 250. Considered the 300 but the cost optimization of price to advantages was not worth it. You can compare the 250 to 300 on the Yamahas website. You will get about 3-4 more mph on the top end speed with 300. Boat runs 50 WOT with the Saltwater Series 2 prop i have. Very happy with it.

 

[sabalo]

If I could redo the fuel tank replacement on my older 2320, I would bite the bullet and move the whole tank forward.

 

[Bodick93]

If I was to replace my tank again, I would not have a fuel sending unit installed. As time passes, the gasket , screws etc around the sending unit are a very likely source for fuel leak and the new engines all tell you how much fuel you’ve burned and that data is far more accurate then in tank fuel tank sending units that are both unreliable and inaccurate.

I’d skip the sending unit entirely….

Hmmm.

 

[gman1001]

I have a 1998 23' DV with a bracket. I repowered mine with a brand new 2022 4.2l Yamaha 250. Considered the 300 but the cost optimization of price to advantages was not worth it. You can compare the 250 to 300 on the Yamahas website. You will get about 3-4 more mph on the top end speed with 300. Boat runs 50 WOT with the Saltwater Series 2 prop i have. Very happy with it.

CC? My god. I have the same boat, 2008 F250. Best I can get with the same prop is 31 to 33 MPH with the wind at my back. 5500 ish RPM and 1/4 tank of gas. How on earth are you getting that speed? Not that I want to go that fast, I'm just worried something is wrong with my boat!

I see your out of Morehead city. My boat came from there. Radio Island??? Original owner was involved in State Fisheries. Dealer in Canada bought it, then I found it on yachtbroker. Boat did a lot of road miles before finding its home in CT!

 

[Alhonigman]

I run a 2018 2320 SL DV with same year Yami 250 and I have never seen anywhere close to 50 mph. I don't run wide open but occasionally I let it rip just to blow out any build up and I don't think I've ever seen above 35. That was true when it was brand new. Question 50 in a 2320 running a 250. I don't think spending extra money for a 300 is worth it. How often can you run wide open without beating yourself up? You won't come out of the hole any faster on a 300 so I just don't see the purpose. I don't know anyone who runs wide open.

 

[gman1001]

I run a 2018 2320 SL DV with same year Yami 250 and I have never seen anywhere close to 50 mph. I don't run wide open but occasionally I let it rip just to blow out any build up and I don't think I've ever seen above 35. That was true when it was brand new. Question 50 in a 2320 running a 250. I don't think spending extra money for a 300 is worth it. How often can you run wide open without beating yourself up? You won't come out of the hole any faster on a 300 so I just don't see the purpose. I don't know anyone who runs wide open.

Conditions are OK to exceed 30MPH maybe 10% of the time where I live! (Kidney preserving conditions that is!)

 

[logan24]

CC? My god. I have the same boat, 2008 F250. Best I can get with the same prop is 31 to 33 MPH with the wind at my back. 5500 ish RPM and 1/4 tank of gas. How on earth are you getting that speed? Not that I want to go that fast, I'm just worried something is wrong with my boat!

I see your out of Morehead city. My boat came from there. Radio Island??? Original owner was involved in State Fisheries. Dealer in Canada bought it, then I found it on yachtbroker. Boat did a lot of road miles before finding its home in CT!

Yes a CC. Ran in the US OPEN about 3 weeks ago at the shotgun start. 47mph with 3 head and a boat full of gas. I have hit 50.3mph before according to my garmin and tach. Also have a video of me running with the wind in my back going 49 with a 2006 yamaha 250. 5600rpm is what i have seen before i believe. I can get my prop details shortly. Like you said its not necessary to run that fast but if its slick and youre in a hurry, youll be glad you can.
My boat cruises at 4500 rpm's between 31-33mph. 120 gallon gas tank based on the math i have done when filling up.

 

[logan24]

I also went with the 2022 250 Yamaha outboard because of the mechanical steering. The 2023 motor has the new cowlings. Same exact motor. You can get it in fly by wire or mechanical. However the mechanical is harder to find and you're paying quite a bit more for the same motor. Just new cawlings. I know the fly by wire is very nice. However i have heard about some connection issues with it. I would also have to redo my throttle and other things to convert to fly by wire which I did not want to do since I mounted the motor myself.

 

[Mpellet]

CC? My god. I have the same boat, 2008 F250. Best I can get with the same prop is 31 to 33 MPH with the wind at my back. 5500 ish RPM and 1/4 tank of gas. How on earth are you getting that speed? Not that I want to go that fast, I'm just worried something is wrong with my boat!

I see your out of Morehead city. My boat came from there. Radio Island??? Original owner was involved in State Fisheries. Dealer in Canada bought it, then I found it on yachtbroker. Boat did a lot of road miles before finding its home in CT!

You live on the same planet I do with the same laws of physics that impact boat performance. Some of the performance #s I see reported on the internet make me wonder if they’re even from the same universe…..

 

[logan24]

Update: I run an 18 Pitch x 15 1/4 diameter saltwater series 2 3 blade prop. Nothing special. I chose this prop because of how stern heavy my '98 is and it needs all the help it can get when loaded down for fishing. Helps get up boat out of the hole and on plane. Other props are designed for economic, top speed, etc. so id say if you are running less than 40 at WOT, i would call a marina and see what they have to offer with their experience.