2003 2300 Center Console 155 gallon fuel tank leaking

[inmanlanier]

First off, our family wishes all of you and your loved ones to be safe in these trying times.

It appears that after 17 years I'm at end of life on the original fuel tank. We absolutely love the boat so hope to keep it until I'm no longer able to enjoy that fabulous ocean resource of ours here in South Florida. We are leaking fuel into the bilge at a rate of 2 gal or so per day with about 95 gal in the tank (discovered on our recent trip to the FL keys when we launched - arghh!). The hoses are all high and dry above the tank level (not leaking), the water separator does not appear to be the source, and the top of the tank (when viewed via the the sending unit deck port location) looks the same as it did when I acquired the boat in 2012 - no moisture, no fluid, just some grime. We're now back home. I've determined the source of the leakage is either perforation in the tank (at 9 plus years old the original owner only had 26 hours on the engine, the fuel was quite old - Lord knows how long the garbage fuel had been sitting) or where the fill line attaches to the tank (inaccessible).

I'm looking for any tips/procedures/drawings, etc. that can assist me in replacing my tank. I saw some drawings for a pilot house 23', I'm assuming they should be similar, but I'm hoping to get the specific stringer/tank cradle/bulkhead drawings for my model boat. If any of you have tips or lessons learned that would also be greatly appreciated. Also I understand that the original tank was likely manufactured by RDS in Perry Florida. I've reached out to them for a replacement. If any of you know of other tank vendors that are good, please let me know.

While down in the Keys, I called Parker - they suggested emailing their info line. I did so with my hull number. Unfortunately not a single response all week long. Needless to say I'll call them tomorrow. I'm not very happy with that lack of response to be honest.

I understand the procedure will be to:
+ pump out the existing fuel
+ remove the bait well/seat
+ cut the deck perimeter of that portion that will be removed*
* said perimeter side cuts will be hopefully be mid-span over the stringers going fore and aft so as not to load up the cut joint when sitting or filling the bait well.
+ remove foam and pop the tank up and out (I'm hoping that it does not extend below the center console - if it does that will add additional challenges)
+ put on a couple of coats of coal tar epoxy on the new tank to at least minimize opportunity for external corrosion
+ install the new the tank (I'm assuming I'll feed a new fill hose from the left front portion of the tank where it attaches under the deck to the the side bulkhead to mate with the gunwale fill fitting). Any experience here?
+ foam the new tank in place
+ carefully re-blend multiple layers of glass in the cut joint to retain structural integrity. I will likely gelcoat the seam and try and match texture with some roller or piece of scotch-brite/whatever. I'll need some 'Parker White' from Parker. I bought some years ago - hopefully they still provide it for sale.

Does anyone have drawings or specific experience and recommendations to share?

As an option I may pay someone to do it - so if there are any folks you can recommend in the West Palm Beach area that you have experience with, please also advise.

Thanks to all in advance to offer support.

 

[GoodChance]

Here ya go.

This is the stringer diagram for my 23 DVCC with a 155 gallon fuel tank.

 

[warthog5]

Boat should have 2 pie plates. 1 @ ass end with sending unit.....The other @ Front where Fuel Fill & vent hook up.
Threw those holes......with a tape measure is how you determine the parmiter.

Use 4lb density foam...US Composites has it.

If console has to be moved and they usually do on center consoles....That opens a Whole other can of worms....Now your into wiring. Console can't move without it being disconnected...+ shift cables.

 

[inmanlanier]

Thanks for the update on the forward 'pie plate' and thanks for the stringer details. Does anyone know approximately how wide each of the stringers are (I couldn't find that detail on the drawing)? If the drawing were to scale they'd appear to only be maybe 1 1/2" wide. I'd like to make my fore/aft cut lines in the middle of the stringers so I have good support for the deck when I put it back.

Regarding the forward 'pie plate' - I've not found it yet because just yesterday I got the drawing yesterday on the original tank from RDS (still haven't heard squat from Parker). The unfortunate thing is that the tank is 93 inches long, and the rear of the tank is about 63 inches rear of the rear of the console. That puts 20 inches or so underneath the console. I don't remember seeing an access port in the console, but it will likely be hidden by the fresh water tank and the wiring square boot. With your tip I'll see if I can get to the forward pie plate in the extremely lucky event it's just my fill line leaking where it attaches to the tank. That would be awesome but I'm not hopeful.

I'm FULLY AWARE of the complications with wiring and the like. There is some extra cable (looped into bundles above the wiring boot), but not a lot. One option may be to simply raise the lower console up enough to get a saw underneath, but we'll see. Another is that once the upper hat and top half of the console are out of the way, I may simply be able to unscrew the lower half of the console and move it around on the deck as needed to get to cut lines (while working within it's perimeter).

My plan of attack right now is to start to remove the baitwell and seat, then the T-top. After that I'll start to break down the console (3 pieces). I store my boat underneath a roof - I have about 2 1/2' overhead clearance, so I was thinking of hanging the T-top from the ceiling (4X4s in the rafters with 4 ropes hanging down at the corners).

Any other tips would be appreciated.

thanks

 

[Brent]

Have new tank built of thicker AL and epoxy coated.

 

[Brent]

Your tank is made by RDS . contact them with make , model, year and HIN. They will have tank drawings and can make new tank. Another option is take it to Warthog

 

[inmanlanier]

Received the emailed drawing from RDS yesterday as stated above. Have already requested a quote for a replacement with 3/16" thickness aluminum (their current standard). The original was 1/8" thick.

Incidentally, anyone reading this - you should take a good photo of your tank ID tag (should be visible from the inspection port). The RDS tag is blue and white. Mine is barely legible at 18 years of age based on mung and stuff. I was able to get all the data - but you should take a photo of yours now and record it.

 

[inmanlanier]

After speaking with Parker on the phone, they're doing a good job assisting me. I have the stringer drawing (see attached). I've now asked for details regarding the stringer cross-section and forward bulkhead cross-section.

Preliminary assessment is that the T-top comes off first. This is not that big a deal in that there are only 3 things lit up there - forward flood, anchor light, and rear deck overhead. I can cut those lines in console and mark carefully for reconnect later. It appears I will have to disconnect my steering lines (no extra service length). We may be able to then simply unbolt the console and move it around while I do my cuts (that may change once I tape my cut points on the deck). If worse comes to worst, then I'll have to disconnect wiring, and perhaps break the console down.

Today I'll check out a couple of reputable boat folks in the area to see if they know someone who does this for hire. I've been thinking for a upgrade to a 300 for a while, so I'll find out that pricing at this time as well. Not a real big deal, but since I likely have to pull new wiring with another engine - if I'm going through the trouble of cutting wiring now, then maybe it's time to make that happen.

Anyone interested in a 2002 F225 with about 230 hours on it ? It runs perfectly, good maintenance and records. There are two 4 bladed stainless props that go with it. If so, ping me as a private conversation.

 

[inmanlanier]

Thought I'd give an update. I did find a very reputable shop locally - Target Boats (and yes they will make you a boat). They've done very many replacements. The waiting list finally cleared and they took my boat in last week. The estimate (w/o tearing into it) is between $7K and $8K (flat rate of $105 per hour). They just finished a damaged Ocean Master where the deck came up among other things - impeccable work. With the heat, my bad knee, and lack of interest to bust my you-know-what for many, many hours I have bit the bullet. The tank will be 3/16" thick, with 2 coats of coal tar epoxy.

I'll keep everyone posted.

 

[Brent]

Awesome

 

[Mpellet]

Thought I'd give an update. I did find a very reputable shop locally - Target Boats (and yes they will make you a boat). They've done very many replacements. The waiting list finally cleared and they took my boat in last week. The estimate (w/o tearing into it) is between $7K and $8K (flat rate of $105 per hour). They just finished a damaged Ocean Master where the deck came up among other things - impeccable work. With the heat, my bad knee, and lack of interest to bust my you-know-what for many, many hours I have bit the bullet. The tank will be 3/16" thick, with 2 coats of coal tar epoxy. I'll keep everyone posted. Are you a 1000% sure that your sending unit gasket is not leaking when the tank is full? This can happen with leaked fuel fuel then getting caught in the “box” that the tank sits in and leaking slowly out of that box for an extended period of time? Sounds like you might already be at the surgery stage but that “box” the tank sits in can play tricks with your mind. I replaced a tank this Spring in my Parker 2520. What I found was 6 gallons or so of fuel in that damn BOX that was leaking out slowly over a period of weeks but the tank was NOT compromised except for a leak at the sending unit gasket that ONLY happened when the tank was totally FULL and boat on the trailer with the trailer tongue elevated. Once those 5-6 gallons of gasoline leaked out the tank. The tank STOPPED leaking and everything on top of the tank was bone dry but that leaked fuel was now in the “BOX” and continued to leak out slowly for months.

 

[inmanlanier]

Most certainly sure. The top of the tank was totally dry (other than the collection of normal grunge mentioned above), with no signs of gas drainage trails across the dirt. That was the first series of inspections I performed. When sitting in the water with only about 2/3rds full (no boat movement), the leak was about 2.5 gal per day. Numerous validations were performed as to it NOT being the cause. It leaked sitting still. In fact, when I was doing the final tank drain (on the trailer at my home) - there were two sources of fuel I had to drain - the fuel line (from the tank to the engine) and the bilge/drain plug. the bilge flow didn't stop until the tank was drained - so my assumption is that the leak was near the bottom.

 

[drewcentfl]

Thought I'd give an update. I did find a very reputable shop locally - Target Boats (and yes they will make you a boat). They've done very many replacements. The waiting list finally cleared and they took my boat in last week. The estimate (w/o tearing into it) is between $7K and $8K (flat rate of $105 per hour). They just finished a damaged Ocean Master where the deck came up among other things - impeccable work. With the heat, my bad knee, and lack of interest to bust my you-know-what for many, many hours I have bit the bullet. The tank will be 3/16" thick, with 2 coats of coal tar epoxy.

I'll keep everyone posted.

Been there man! Your doing the right thing if you love your boat (as I do). Had the same issue on my 2003 23SE last year. Big job.. but what we found definitely confirmed a leaky tank. There was no definite hole.. Just severe corrosion that was impossible to detect an exact location. I have many pics of you would like to see. I also upgraded to an F300 and has made a world of difference with the boat.

 

[drewcentfl]

After speaking with Parker on the phone, they're doing a good job assisting me. I have the stringer drawing (see attached). I've now asked for details regarding the stringer cross-section and forward bulkhead cross-section.

Preliminary assessment is that the T-top comes off first. This is not that big a deal in that there are only 3 things lit up there - forward flood, anchor light, and rear deck overhead. I can cut those lines in console and mark carefully for reconnect later. It appears I will have to disconnect my steering lines (no extra service length). We may be able to then simply unbolt the console and move it around while I do my cuts (that may change once I tape my cut points on the deck). If worse comes to worst, then I'll have to disconnect wiring, and perhaps break the console down.

Today I'll check out a couple of reputable boat folks in the area to see if they know someone who does this for hire. I've been thinking for a upgrade to a 300 for a while, so I'll find out that pricing at this time as well. Not a real big deal, but since I likely have to pull new wiring with another engine - if I'm going through the trouble of cutting wiring now, then maybe it's time to make that happen.

Anyone interested in a 2002 F225 with about 230 hours on it ? It runs perfectly, good maintenance and records. There are two 4 bladed stainless props that go with it. If so, ping me as a private conversation.

Could you share your stringer info?

 

[inmanlanier]

the one that says 23DVCC... is what Parker sent me. I've marked it up - 'sketch for Parker.pdf' shows a 2nd sheet with details per my emails and telecoms with the Parker engineer. Sorry - I thought I'd attached that before. Mine is a 2002 hull, sold in 2003.

The stringers are simply 3/4" marine plywood (all 4 surrounding the tank area). Then on the inside edge of the front to back stringers, they also have 'nailers' attached. The deck is fastened by glue/fiberglass and ring shank nails.

 

[markman03]

Did the tank pressure check OK with all of the corrosion?

 

[2801 Parker]

I am kind of new here, but saw your post back in July. Would like to know how the job went. I recently had a scare thinking I had a leak in one of my tanks (2003 - 2801) only to find out it was the sender when the tank was full. I still have concerns seeing the boat is an '03 and would like to be prepared with a good shop when (and if) that day comes. Thanks.

 

[inmanlanier]

Markman03 - if you're talking to me, no pressure check needed. I did not see it (already at the tank shop) but definitely areas of corrosion/perforation. Unfortunately the way Parker built mine, there is a clamshell console (lower shell and upper shell). They simply cut a square hole in the deck for all the wiring to come up in the console. This hole is right over the tank. They used minimal sealing under the lower clamshell, so water could readily seep under the lower clamshell and then dribble onto the tank, seep around it into the foam, then drain into the bilge via the small PVC pipe towards the rear of the tank compartment. The wood in the deck cutout doesn't even appear to be have been sealed, wicking up the water. Note I store my boat under a roof - it's been that way since I took over ownership in 2012. They said there was probably 5 gallons of fuel in the foam that was removed from the boat.

Unfortunately, the deck was rotting under the console and around the console area where the hole for wiring goes (see 2nd photo below). Thumbs down for Parker here. Instead what they should have is a flange on the deck cutout so that water around the hole cannot drain down to the tank. Another option would have been a large diameter pipe elbow sticking up through the hole through which all the wiring runs, then the hole completely sealed to the pipe OD (that will be our repair methodology).

Lastly none of the wiring coming over the tank was in loom; some chafing was noted as well as a prior repair from rats or something (prior owner I assume). I found out why I had to run some conductors for the engine trim indicator - the original conductors were eaten by said rat. Everything worked, so I was fine, but ultimately that may have caused some issues. We noted some prior repairs or splicing - my guess is the prior owner when the rats got it. We'll put the wiring in good form before the console goes back on.

2801Parker - demo done, we're now waiting on the local tank fabricator. I'm assuming two to three weeks or so before done. To your interest on quality of job... I was out of town when they were ready for the boat; my buddy dropped it off for me. It replaced an Ocean Master that was restored since the hurricane Dorian - my bud said they did an excellent job with that one (we saw it after partial demo in July). I expect they'll do the same to mine (high quality), but will post later with my results.

To all vintage Parkers - I think based on what I've seen, any boats made like mine will be replacing the fuel tank. Until they change their practice of allowing the tank to get easily wet, you are simply initiating the corrosion process, for aluminum does corrode. We'll hopefully eliminate that opportunity - as well as go with a 3/16" wall thickness tank and cold epoxy.

Updated 9/15 to show photo of tank hole. There were numerous spots on the tank that showed corrosion, one other large area that was incipient leakage. This hole was approximately 1/4" x 3/16". I'm sure the foam was the reason the leak was only 2 1/2 gals. per day.

 

[GoodChance]

While you have everything apart, kindly be aware that there is a huge, un-used storage area below the deck...... in front of the console ...... and in front of the gas tank. I think it measures 60" long, 29" wide (between the stringers) and 16-18" deep. You can store 5-gallon buckets under there.

In the attached picture you can see that I installed a 18x24" aluminum hatch to gain access to this area

 

[inmanlanier]

Thanks, GoodChance - NICE TIP - hmmm... maybe I need a new deck plate forward!

Which model boat do you have? Mine is a 23' CC deep Vee. In front of my console seat is the V shaped opening flanked on either side by the bow storage boxes. In your photo I see a piece of wood and some vertical member forward of that. I'm curious if different.