2004 Parker 2501- fuel tank leaking

[DrewCCW]

First post on here, but I have been on here reading and learning from the many projects and topics for a few years- Thanks to everyone for the input! I have a 2004 2501 center console, which I bought about 4 years ago. The boat was repowered in 2015 w/ twin yam F200s, then the starboard one blew the powerhead 12 months ago (with 967 hours and 13 months out of warranty). Anyway, about 2 weeks ago I came down to the boat to find a couple cups of gas in the bilge. Not surprisingly, it was a couple days after running the boat hard in rough seas for a couple days straight in a tournament. Immediately pulled the bilge fuse and cleaned out as much fuel as possible before pulling the boat out, and putting in my driveway with the bow jacked all the way up on the trailer. Note- its a 200 gallon RDS aluminum tank, and it has about 57 gallons in it (according to Garmin/Yamaha J1939 integration, which has been accurate to the gallon for quite a while). Let it sit a day, cleaned bilge out again, waited another day then checked to see if there was any more fuel visible- there was not. Then dropped the bow as low as it would go on the trailer and let it sit another day, then jacked it back up again. About a 1/2 gallon showed up then. At this point I am pretty certain there is a hole or pin holes or broken weld somewhere on the front of the tank- not leaking from fill or vent connections, and only leaking when the bow was down (remember there's only about a 1/4 tank of fuel in it). Also tried having a friend put about 5 gallons of fuel in it while I watched at the fill/ vent hoses to see if there was a visible leak just while refueling- there was not. At this point I'm coming to the reality that its the tank, but wanted to do a pressure test to see.

Today, I cut the vent line at the vent, plugged it, and used a pneumatic pipe plug stuffed way down the fill pipe to plug the fill line. Then removed both fuel lines from the water separators in the bilge. Plugged one and put a 0-15PSI guage with a schrader valve on the last remaining fuel line. When I put air to it, I can hear the gas in tank gurgling, but its not even holding .5 PSI (1/2 PSI). Had a spray bottle with soapy water to spray at connections, but not even holding enough pressure to find a leak/bubbles. Prob should try that with another person to really inspect it while the air is going in.

So, looks like I'm down again for the time being. Fortunately, I own a cabinet shop and have enough space inside to bring the boat to the shop to de-rig it and get started removing the T-top, console etc to cut the deck out and pull the tank. I can find the stringers on outboard port and starboard sides of the tank, as well as forward tank bulkhead, and aft bulkhead seems to be just under the forward edge of the livewell/leaning post. Had hoped to get a layout from Parker as I have done before on another boat, but they suck now that the Parkers sold it and don't call or email anyone back. I have looked thru the threads on CP and THT that came up on fuel leak, tank replacement etc searches and found a lot of good info. Figured I'd put it out there now and see if anyone has any suggestions or advice for me given the details here. It would be great if I could get the tank dimensions or even a drawing so I can get my aluminum guy going on the new tank while I tear everything down. Thanks in advance!

Drew

 

[warthog5]

I don't worry about getting a stringer layout.

Usually you can go theu the forward and rear pieholes over the tank and run a tape measure in there to get where the stringers are. I also don't worry about trying to save that piece of deck , as it will just get a new one anyway.

This gives a chance to mod the openings where the pieholes are...Adding a lip under the main so that larger Armstrong Pie covers can be installed...THEY are Watertight !

 

[pelagic2530]

I don't worry about getting a stringer layout.

Usually you can go theu the forward and rear pieholes over the tank and run a tape measure in there to get where the stringers are. I also don't worry about trying to save that piece of deck , as it will just get a new one anyway.

This gives a chance to mod the openings where the pieholes are...Adding a lip under the main so that larger Armstrong Pie covers can be installed...THEY are Watertight !

Wart, do you have a link to the pie covers you use?

 

[Bodick93]

Wart, do you have a link to the pie covers you use?

https://stores.armstrongnauticalstore.com/deck-plates-1/

 

[Bodick93]

I load mine up with lifecaulk. It also keeps them from spinning. They still come off fairly easy. '19 2320 with standard deck caps.

 

[warthog5]

Bodick has the link there.....Years ago...Cape Horn had them, but didn't recess them, so they stand proud of the deck and are Toe stubbers. What I suggest is with the new deck piece....The hole for the Pie Plate is cut a litte larger than the Pie Plate. Needs to be aprox 2in larger than the OD....Then another panel is glued to the underside and the hole cut correctly in the middle of the first hole....What this does is create a recess for the Pie Plate to sit in and not be a Toe Stubber....I've done them before.

 

[Mpellet]

First post on here, but I have been on here reading and learning from the many projects and topics for a few years- Thanks to everyone for the input! I have a 2004 2501 center console, which I bought about 4 years ago. The boat was repowered in 2015 w/ twin yam F200s, then the starboard one blew the powerhead 12 months ago (with 967 hours and 13 months out of warranty). Anyway, about 2 weeks ago I came down to the boat to find a couple cups of gas in the bilge. Not surprisingly, it was a couple days after running the boat hard in rough seas for a couple days straight in a tournament. Immediately pulled the bilge fuse and cleaned out as much fuel as possible before pulling the boat out, and putting in my driveway with the bow jacked all the way up on the trailer. Note- its a 200 gallon RDS aluminum tank, and it has about 57 gallons in it (according to Garmin/Yamaha J1939 integration, which has been accurate to the gallon for quite a while). Let it sit a day, cleaned bilge out again, waited another day then checked to see if there was any more fuel visible- there was not. Then dropped the bow as low as it would go on the trailer and let it sit another day, then jacked it back up again. About a 1/2 gallon showed up then. At this point I am pretty certain there is a hole or pin holes or broken weld somewhere on the front of the tank- not leaking from fill or vent connections, and only leaking when the bow was down (remember there's only about a 1/4 tank of fuel in it). Also tried having a friend put about 5 gallons of fuel in it while I watched at the fill/ vent hoses to see if there was a visible leak just while refueling- there was not. At this point I'm coming to the reality that its the tank, but wanted to do a pressure test to see.

Today, I cut the vent line at the vent, plugged it, and used a pneumatic pipe plug stuffed way down the fill pipe to plug the fill line. Then removed both fuel lines from the water separators in the bilge. Plugged one and put a 0-15PSI guage with a schrader valve on the last remaining fuel line. When I put air to it, I can hear the gas in tank gurgling, but its not even holding .5 PSI (1/2 PSI). Had a spray bottle with soapy water to spray at connections, but not even holding enough pressure to find a leak/bubbles. Prob should try that with another person to really inspect it while the air is going in.

So, looks like I'm down again for the time being. Fortunately, I own a cabinet shop and have enough space inside to bring the boat to the shop to de-rig it and get started removing the T-top, console etc to cut the deck out and pull the tank. I can find the stringers on outboard port and starboard sides of the tank, as well as forward tank bulkhead, and aft bulkhead seems to be just under the forward edge of the livewell/leaning post. Had hoped to get a layout from Parker as I have done before on another boat, but they suck now that the Parkers sold it and don't call or email anyone back. I have looked thru the threads on CP and THT that came up on fuel leak, tank replacement etc searches and found a lot of good info. Figured I'd put it out there now and see if anyone has any suggestions or advice for me given the details here. It would be great if I could get the tank dimensions or even a drawing so I can get my aluminum guy going on the new tank while I tear everything down. Thanks in advance!

Drew

View attachment 35056

Here is a repost of lessons learned that I wrote back in 2020 after replacing my fuel tank, read at your own risk (perhaps you might find some information of value).



“I am going to share my fuel tank story. It’s not a happy tale and gives me a $hitty feeling to tell but I am going to hoping maybe it helps another Parker Owner.

I filled up my fuel tank on my 2005 Parker 2520 XL prior to Winterization just like I have for the last 14 seasons. On 1 April (FOOLS) I pulled the cover to get my work started prior to launch. The plan was to install a new fancy VHF Radio and 2 new VHF antennas. As I am sitting in the wheelhouses deciding where to mount the radio , I smell gasoline. I open up the far aft hatch and there is a little fluid in the bilge, not unusual, perhaps 1/2 an inch. I sop it all up till as far as I can reach and see is dry. The fluid is a gasoline/water mix. Paper towels used to sop up the fluid smelled like gasoline but would not light on fire so I wasn’t panicking, thinking maybe it was just a small amount of gasoline that had seeped out of a hose fitting over the Winter.

The next day, HOPING for a dry bilge and fumes dissipating, I am crushed, more fluid in the bilge! This time the wet rags go up WOOSH! As in all gasoline. I sop up all the gasoline again. Next I remove both fill and vent hoses from the tank, no fuel coming out of either tank fitting. I check hoses, no leaks.

I go aft to the sending unit and remove 1 screw and gasoline squirts out the screw hole. I put the screw back in and wipe down the top of the tank carefully, no leaks around sending unit. I leave clean dry clean paper towels all around the area of the sending unit. Figuring I will leave them overnight and check to see if there is a slow leak around the sending unit.

I clean up all the gasoline in the bilge again.

Next morning the paper towels I left on the top of the tank, covering the sending unit are bone dry.

Look in the bilge, wet again pure gasoline

Boat is slightly elevated on trailer so cockpit will drain. I grab a wooden dowel, tape some paper towels to the end and stick it into the drain located in the V-berth floor. Pull the dowel out, paper towels soaking WET and yes it’s gasoline.

I dry out the bilge aft one more time, next morning it’s wet again with gasoline.

At this point I ASSume my tank HAS to have a hole in it.


CONVINCED that I have a fuel leak, I make the decision to have the tank pulled.

(Opportunity here for all the Monday Morning QBs to chime in to explain all of things they would have done before cutting the deck. YES you’re better then me, so lay it on if you like.)

I routinely fish 25 miles offshore, frequently alone other times with my son or life long friends. Water is sometime 40F never warmer then 70F.

I take my wife, kids and young Granddaughters out in this boat.

Again over the course of 4 days with nothing leaking from the top of the tank, I have raw gasoline in the bilge both aft and forward under the V-berth even with the boat slightly elevated.

At this point, I have lost confidence in the fuel tank and am not gonna put a friend or family member on the boat till this gasoline leak is resolved.

Gasoline gets pumped out, hole gets cut, tank gets pulled.

Tank looks VERY GOOD, no culprit, not even close.


However a Parker fuel tank sits in a “BOX” that is sealed, well mostly sealed. There was about 8 gallons of gasoline in the box.

My buddy is a professional fuel tank builder and was gonna build me my new tank. I ran the old one up to him for him to get dimensions for the new fuel cell. He looks at my tank and says this one looks good, why you replacing it?

We pressure test and after pumping up, yes some bubbles around the sending unit gasket.

Bbbbut do you remember a few paragraphs back I thought I confirmed that it wasn’t leaking? I removed a screw and gasoline shot of the screw hole, stopped leaking when I replaced the screw, so I ***umed the sending unit wasn’t the problem.


Here is what happened, the fukcing sending unit gasket LEAKED, it leaked all Winter, about 8-10 gallons that all ended up in that Parker Fuel Tank Box and soaking into the foam. After leaking about 8-10 gallons there wasn’t enough fuel pressing hard enough against the gasket so it quit leaking. I bet if I had left the screw out a cup or so of gasoline would have leaked and then it would have stopped.

I still had 8 gallons of fuel in the BOX and that’s why the bilge kept slowly filling up with gasoline, it was the 8-10 gallons of fuel seeping out of that BOX.

The “problem” was as insignificant as a sending unit gasket that I could have fixed in 10 minutes after running the boat and burning up some fuel!


YES I am an *****!

YES you would pressure tested the tank before cutting the deck and found the leak!

That still would not have stopped the 8-10 gallons of gasoline returning to the bilge day after day or given me peace of mind that my tank wasn’t leaking, as gasoline dripped into the bilge for however long it took for those 8 gallons trapped in the BOX to drip and evaporate till the box was eventually dry.

That BOX might keep the tank nice and cozy but it’s a rotten ******* as far as I am concerned for finding a fuel leak.

Fukc it I wasn’t gonna put a 15 year old fuel tank back in a deck that has to be cut to remove the fuel tank, so I had a new fuel tank fabricated. If anyone is looking for a tested 150 gallon Parker tank albeit 15 years old, I have one for sale.


Job is still not finished and I am pulling my hair out. Company offered a 1/2 pay leave May-August due to covid-19er and I took it figuring I could fish and now I don’t have a boat.

How’s that old Alanis Morissette song go again Isn’t It Ironic????

Hope someone can learn from my experience.

Note: Parker Boats was of absolutely ZERO help, called customer service and was not allowed to speak with anyone. I was given an Email Address, I sent a couple of Emails the first week of April, still no response. Local Parker Dealer was unable to look at the boat till after Memorial Day.”

 

[DrewCCW]

I don't worry about getting a stringer layout.

Usually you can go theu the forward and rear pieholes over the tank and run a tape measure in there to get where the stringers are. I also don't worry about trying to save that piece of deck , as it will just get a new one anyway.

This gives a chance to mod the openings where the pieholes are...Adding a lip under the main so that larger Armstrong Pie covers can be installed...THEY are Watertight !

Yeah, found them all and I have it laid out on the deck with some tape now. I like the idea for recessing the hatches (fortunately I have a CNC w/ 5'x12' table in my shop and can route anything like that very easily). What deck material would you recommend? Was looking at using Coosa, just wasn't sure if it needs to be 26 lb or if 20 lb is sufficient. Also thinking about doing a few other mods while she's opened up, just haven't decided how far I want to go yet.

 

[DrewCCW]

Here is a repost of lessons learned that I wrote back in 2020 after replacing my fuel tank, read at your own risk (perhaps you might find some information of value).



“I am going to share my fuel tank story. It’s not a happy tale and gives me a $hitty feeling to tell but I am going to hoping maybe it helps another Parker Owner.

I filled up my fuel tank on my 2005 Parker 2520 XL prior to Winterization just like I have for the last 14 seasons. On 1 April (FOOLS) I pulled the cover to get my work started prior to launch. The plan was to install a new fancy VHF Radio and 2 new VHF antennas. As I am sitting in the wheelhouses deciding where to mount the radio , I smell gasoline. I open up the far aft hatch and there is a little fluid in the bilge, not unusual, perhaps 1/2 an inch. I sop it all up till as far as I can reach and see is dry. The fluid is a gasoline/water mix. Paper towels used to sop up the fluid smelled like gasoline but would not light on fire so I wasn’t panicking, thinking maybe it was just a small amount of gasoline that had seeped out of a hose fitting over the Winter.

The next day, HOPING for a dry bilge and fumes dissipating, I am crushed, more fluid in the bilge! This time the wet rags go up WOOSH! As in all gasoline. I sop up all the gasoline again. Next I remove both fill and vent hoses from the tank, no fuel coming out of either tank fitting. I check hoses, no leaks.

I go aft to the sending unit and remove 1 screw and gasoline squirts out the screw hole. I put the screw back in and wipe down the top of the tank carefully, no leaks around sending unit. I leave clean dry clean paper towels all around the area of the sending unit. Figuring I will leave them overnight and check to see if there is a slow leak around the sending unit.

I clean up all the gasoline in the bilge again.

Next morning the paper towels I left on the top of the tank, covering the sending unit are bone dry.

Look in the bilge, wet again pure gasoline

Boat is slightly elevated on trailer so cockpit will drain. I grab a wooden dowel, tape some paper towels to the end and stick it into the drain located in the V-berth floor. Pull the dowel out, paper towels soaking WET and yes it’s gasoline.

I dry out the bilge aft one more time, next morning it’s wet again with gasoline.

At this point I ASSume my tank HAS to have a hole in it.


CONVINCED that I have a fuel leak, I make the decision to have the tank pulled.

(Opportunity here for all the Monday Morning QBs to chime in to explain all of things they would have done before cutting the deck. YES you’re better then me, so lay it on if you like.)

I routinely fish 25 miles offshore, frequently alone other times with my son or life long friends. Water is sometime 40F never warmer then 70F.

I take my wife, kids and young Granddaughters out in this boat.

Again over the course of 4 days with nothing leaking from the top of the tank, I have raw gasoline in the bilge both aft and forward under the V-berth even with the boat slightly elevated.

At this point, I have lost confidence in the fuel tank and am not gonna put a friend or family member on the boat till this gasoline leak is resolved.

Gasoline gets pumped out, hole gets cut, tank gets pulled.

Tank looks VERY GOOD, no culprit, not even close.


However a Parker fuel tank sits in a “BOX” that is sealed, well mostly sealed. There was about 8 gallons of gasoline in the box.

My buddy is a professional fuel tank builder and was gonna build me my new tank. I ran the old one up to him for him to get dimensions for the new fuel cell. He looks at my tank and says this one looks good, why you replacing it?

We pressure test and after pumping up, yes some bubbles around the sending unit gasket.

Bbbbut do you remember a few paragraphs back I thought I confirmed that it wasn’t leaking? I removed a screw and gasoline shot of the screw hole, stopped leaking when I replaced the screw, so I ***umed the sending unit wasn’t the problem.


Here is what happened, the fukcing sending unit gasket LEAKED, it leaked all Winter, about 8-10 gallons that all ended up in that Parker Fuel Tank Box and soaking into the foam. After leaking about 8-10 gallons there wasn’t enough fuel pressing hard enough against the gasket so it quit leaking. I bet if I had left the screw out a cup or so of gasoline would have leaked and then it would have stopped.

I still had 8 gallons of fuel in the BOX and that’s why the bilge kept slowly filling up with gasoline, it was the 8-10 gallons of fuel seeping out of that BOX.

The “problem” was as insignificant as a sending unit gasket that I could have fixed in 10 minutes after running the boat and burning up some fuel!


YES I am an *****!

YES you would pressure tested the tank before cutting the deck and found the leak!

That still would not have stopped the 8-10 gallons of gasoline returning to the bilge day after day or given me peace of mind that my tank wasn’t leaking, as gasoline dripped into the bilge for however long it took for those 8 gallons trapped in the BOX to drip and evaporate till the box was eventually dry.

That BOX might keep the tank nice and cozy but it’s a rotten ******* as far as I am concerned for finding a fuel leak.

Fukc it I wasn’t gonna put a 15 year old fuel tank back in a deck that has to be cut to remove the fuel tank, so I had a new fuel tank fabricated. If anyone is looking for a tested 150 gallon Parker tank albeit 15 years old, I have one for sale.


Job is still not finished and I am pulling my hair out. Company offered a 1/2 pay leave May-August due to covid-19er and I took it figuring I could fish and now I don’t have a boat.

How’s that old Alanis Morissette song go again Isn’t It Ironic????

Hope someone can learn from my experience.

Note: Parker Boats was of absolutely ZERO help, called customer service and was not allowed to speak with anyone. I was given an Email Address, I sent a couple of Emails the first week of April, still no response. Local Parker Dealer was unable to look at the boat till after Memorial Day.”

Man, I feel your pain! I almost have a feeling the same thing might be the case with mine, but like you I can't have any "random gas" floating around in this boat. I regularly fish 50-70nm offshore and run some charters as well, so that doesn't work for me either. I'm trying to see the silver lining in it and make several new modifications while the boat is taken apart. Been saying that whenever the tank needed to be replaced I want to try to do a couple of these things at the same time since it would be alot easier. Spent almost all day yesterday getting all the gas out, getting all the other loose stuff off the boat and cleaning out a place in my shop to put it. Finally got it in the shop today, and hoping to start derigging this week.

When yall pulled your consoles, was it glassed or just screwed/sealed to the deck? mine is the 2-piece type, and looks like it is just screwed to the deck from the inside. I'll attach a few pics before I start tearing her down.

 

[DrewCCW]

Before pics:

 

[Mpellet]

Man, I feel your pain! I almost have a feeling the same thing might be the case with mine, but like you I can't have any "random gas" floating around in this boat. I regularly fish 50-70nm offshore and run some charters as well, so that doesn't work for me either. I'm trying to see the silver lining in it and make several new modifications while the boat is taken apart. Been saying that whenever the tank needed to be replaced I want to try to do a couple of these things at the same time since it would be alot easier. Spent almost all day yesterday getting all the gas out, getting all the other loose stuff off the boat and cleaning out a place in my shop to put it. Finally got it in the shop today, and hoping to start derigging this week.

When yall pulled your consoles, was it glassed or just screwed/sealed to the deck? mine is the 2-piece type, and looks like it is just screwed to the deck from the inside. I'll attach a few pics before I start tearing her down.

My boat is a 2520SL, no console to deal with and the tank was only 150 gallons but the deck still had to be cut to get at it.

 

[DrewCCW]

My boat is a 2520SL, no console to deal with and the tank was only 150 gallons but the deck still had to be cut to get at it.

I gotcha, did you replace the deck or use the old one?

 

[Mpellet]

I gotcha, did you replace the deck or use the old one?

Old piece went back in. For the record I did not do the job. I had a real bad wrist at the time and bit the bullet and paid to have it done.

 

[Mpellet]

Old piece went back in. For the record I did not do the job. I had a real bad wrist at the time and bit the bullet and paid to have it done but I kept up with what was going on.

 

[warthog5]

What deck material would you recommend? Was looking at using Coosa, just wasn't sure if it needs to be 26 lb or if 20 lb is sufficient. Also thinking about doing a few other mods while she's opened up, just haven't decided how far I want to go yet.

It can be done easy enough without a CNC table....LOL But if ya got it.
20lb Coosa would be plenty...It is a composite..and needs to be treated like a I beam...Laminating both sides to get the strength. Where the recess's are...The lip can be 3/8in if you run into depth problems over the tank.....The Armstrong Pie Covers must be and to move sideways in order to get the Dog out of the hole.

 

[DrewCCW]

Making progress.. tank was pitted all to hell on the bottom. Definitely not a job I would want to do all the time!

 

[warthog5]

To me....The real pain is dealing with the wiring in that.. You open it up to do a fuel tank.....and you end up damn near rewiring the boat.

See my past posts for making the tank better than it was from the factory and how to keep that coffin water free so no water can get to the tank.....Even if a piehole leaks.

 

[DrewCCW]

To me....The real pain is dealing with the wiring in that.. You open it up to do a fuel tank.....and you end up damn near rewiring the boat.

See my past posts for making the tank better than it was from the factory and how to keep that coffin water free so no water can get to the tank.....Even if a piehole leaks.

I hear that- Luckily I rewired almost everything a year and a half ago and at least know every wire and terminal in the boat, so hopefully will be a little easier. Also, thank you for all of the information you and everyone else have given on this forum- truly priceless!

I should get my new tank in the next week. I think from all the reading and research I've done on all the different opinions on how to go about re-installing a tank, I have come to this process but have a couple minor detail questions (feel free to add or give thoughts on anything)...

First, plan to build a coosa platform for the new tank to sit on, in the exact same position it was originally. When I build this platform, it will be glassed to the hull and stringers with a space underneath of about 6 inches or so. One question is, should I add some kind of rubber strips to pad the tank between the glassed coosa and bottom of tank? I plan to coal tar epoxy the tank, and next question is- does somebody have a link or product name for a decent yet cost effective brand/supplier to get it? I usually get most of my supplies thru Paxton, but I would have to buy 4 gallons and def don't need that much.

Next step will be pulling new fill and vent lines, then installing the tank into the new cavity, thru bolting the tabs to the fore and aft bulkheads, then pouring 4lb foam around the perimeter to lock it in. After foam kicks, cut flush to top of tank, drill a drain hole in aft bulkhead flush to top of tank. Then tab the entire perimeter with a layer of epoxy/1708 going up the stringers/bulkheads and down over the foam and top of tank. Another question is should I add a removable drain plug at the bottom of the new tank cavity as well? Could be accessed by removing leaning post/livewell to at least check to see if fuel were leaking in the fuel compartment without having to tear everything else out again. The hole would be about 6" above the bottom of bilge, and could be a garboard plug to not allow water in there if there was some kind of incident allowing that much water in the bilge.

On another note, I found a huge cavity foreward of the tank cavity with nothing in it- 40" front to back, 30" across and 24.5" deep at the sides, and 30" deep in center. Both cavities on either side are filled with floatation foam. Gonna be a new icebox- already insulated on both sides, I'm glassing a new well with drain to mount in the cavity, and plumbing the drain line under the new tank platform to a macerator in the bilge (would like that pump closer to the well, but not really any accessible location to put it- ideas?) . Then will pour 2lb foam around the front, back and under the new well to insulate. Already made a new molds for deck receiver (recessed gutters, hinges and drains) and new 28x28 hatch. Pretty excited about this because we normally have a huge cooler strapped in that exact spot on the deck to keep our ice till we need it- keeps weight forward and boat rides better. I can only imagine this will be even better, plus free up a good chunk of deck space. If I really get motivated, I want to make a second hatch and receiver off these molds to replace the little bilge hatch to give full access to bilge. Plan to run all gutter drains to a manifold tied into livewell drain. Had to find something to give this project a little more excitement than being right back to where I was a month ago! I'll try to add some pics later.

 

[warthog5]

plan to build a coosa platform for the new tank to sit on,

Are you going to sheeth over everthing in the bottom? Raising the tank.

 

[warthog5]

In the past I've used Rustolem Coal Tar epoxy...1 gal Kit. You'll use aprox 1/3 of Part A & B for 2coats of this 1 to1 product..... I see the price has sored, like everything else.

I can across this at a reasonable price....Looks like a 2 to 1 kit. as Total volume is 3qts, which would be enough to do your tank and not have partial cans laying around for years wondering what to do with the rest.

https://www.amazon.com/Fasco-54-Coal-Epoxy-Quart/dp/B07GBJ9LBR