2006 Parker 2510
- Thread starter Carmeda
- Start date
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warthog5
Well-known member
Well Boat needs a BEP Cluster switch. Click the TECH data and then the PDF.
https://www.bepmarine.com/en/p/716-SQ-140A-DVSR/Square-Btery-Distribution-Cluster
Garmin dropping out when horn Blown...... I bet there is circuit sharing in there somewhere. Positive piggybacked or Grounds shared.
I refer to that as "Spiking : your electronics....and it's Hard on them.
I Start with installing a BEP Cluster...Have the 59th one doing now.
When installed correctly... It provides CLEAN power to everything and that is what you want.
https://www.bepmarine.com/en/p/716-SQ-140A-DVSR/Square-Btery-Distribution-Cluster
Garmin dropping out when horn Blown...... I bet there is circuit sharing in there somewhere. Positive piggybacked or Grounds shared.
I refer to that as "Spiking : your electronics....and it's Hard on them.
I Start with installing a BEP Cluster...Have the 59th one doing now.
When installed correctly... It provides CLEAN power to everything and that is what you want.
BEP switch isn’t going to help your horn issue, although it’s a good idea regardless.
You’ve got some homework to do. The reason your electronics are shutting off is due to voltage drop. The compressor for your air horn draws a relatively high amount of amperage. This, combined with supply wiring that is likely too small, creates a momentary voltage drop. If your electronics are on the same circuit, or share a ground screw, this drop in voltage will cause the electronics to shut off.
The only way you’re going to solve this is by tracing out the wiring for both the electronics and the horn, and figuring out how to separate the circuits so that they don’t affect one another. If this is a new issue, you’ll also want to check for corrosion somewhere in the circuit- common areas are fuse holders, ground screws, plugs and butt splices. Also, if your batteries are weak and you’re starting out with low power, this will only exacerbate the issue.
Regarding battery hook ups: it depends on your system, but you likely have a 1-2-both-off switch. There will be one red battery cable running from each battery positive terminal to the switch, then a positive lead from the switch to the engine, and a positive lead from the switch to your house power. The batteries should have a negative cable between the negative posts of both batteries, a negative cable from the engine to one of the negative battery terminals, and a negative cable from the house negative bus to one of the negative terminals. You also likely have a fused brown wire hooked directly to one of the positive battery terminals for the auto bilge pump. That’s basic factory rigging; other than that, it’s impossible to know what modifications have been made by previous owners. Good luck, if you have pictures of your battery compartment or electrical wiring it might help narrow some things down.
You’ve got some homework to do. The reason your electronics are shutting off is due to voltage drop. The compressor for your air horn draws a relatively high amount of amperage. This, combined with supply wiring that is likely too small, creates a momentary voltage drop. If your electronics are on the same circuit, or share a ground screw, this drop in voltage will cause the electronics to shut off.
The only way you’re going to solve this is by tracing out the wiring for both the electronics and the horn, and figuring out how to separate the circuits so that they don’t affect one another. If this is a new issue, you’ll also want to check for corrosion somewhere in the circuit- common areas are fuse holders, ground screws, plugs and butt splices. Also, if your batteries are weak and you’re starting out with low power, this will only exacerbate the issue.
Regarding battery hook ups: it depends on your system, but you likely have a 1-2-both-off switch. There will be one red battery cable running from each battery positive terminal to the switch, then a positive lead from the switch to the engine, and a positive lead from the switch to your house power. The batteries should have a negative cable between the negative posts of both batteries, a negative cable from the engine to one of the negative battery terminals, and a negative cable from the house negative bus to one of the negative terminals. You also likely have a fused brown wire hooked directly to one of the positive battery terminals for the auto bilge pump. That’s basic factory rigging; other than that, it’s impossible to know what modifications have been made by previous owners. Good luck, if you have pictures of your battery compartment or electrical wiring it might help narrow some things down.
warthog5
Well-known member
The BEP is the "Beginning" of Supplying Good Clean Power to your components.
Now why do I say that? Because a Perko switch has no dedicated House & Start circuits.
It's my educated guess...... The horn circuit existed from the factory.....
Then someone added the Garmin and piggybacked onto the Horn wiring. Get it off the Horn wiring.
Now why do I say that? Because a Perko switch has no dedicated House & Start circuits.
It's my educated guess...... The horn circuit existed from the factory.....
Then someone added the Garmin and piggybacked onto the Horn wiring. Get it off the Horn wiring.
dcunniff
Well-known member
And look at the voltage display when it happens. First I have heard of a horn doing this. And there have been times I have laid on the horn for seconds at a time over and over, with typically three instruments running, fans, and a couple of radios...
Is yours an air horn, or an electric one? The momentary compressors for the air ones draw a good bit of instantaneous power, unless it’s the kind that uses a pressure tank.
