2014 25 SE bilge pump float switch replacement.
- Thread starter Big Papa
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warthog5
Well-known member
Yes......There is a Fuse @ the Battery that feeds power to the Float switch.
What this does is.....When your Master Switch is OFF.....Power is still @ the Float switch.
I like the Rule A Matic Plus float switches better. They have the cage around them.
What this does is.....When your Master Switch is OFF.....Power is still @ the Float switch.
I like the Rule A Matic Plus float switches better. They have the cage around them.
Found the fuse at battery (10amp) it was corroded. Clean up & put new fuse in but still doesn’t work. I should be able to short those two wires going to switch to test, correct?
You shouldn’t need to short it. If you put a new fuse in and it didn’t blow, you’ve already “shorted” it (as in, completed that segment of the circuit) with the fuse. So your problem exists elsewhere. If the fuse holder itself is corroded, you may need to replace it in order to get a good connection. Otherwise, check the connections where the float switch wire joins the pump wiring, and whether or not there are and existing splices in the wire from the battery. If you have a multimeter, test your old switch (in the “up” position) for continuity. That should help you determine whether or not the old switch was your problem in the first place.
warthog5
Well-known member
What Pelagic said.....I dab fuse terminals with diaelectric grease before install.
Your not getting Power to the pump.....via the Float switch part of the circuit.
The fact that the pump runs via the ON/OFF switch proves a Good GND.
That part of the circuit with the fuse.....Goes from Battery + thru fuse......Then to one of the float switch wires....The other wire coming out of float switch couples to the feed from the ON/OFF switch @ the pump's Brown Hot feed wire.
When float switch is UP....completes circuit to pump.
Your not getting Power to the pump.....via the Float switch part of the circuit.
The fact that the pump runs via the ON/OFF switch proves a Good GND.
That part of the circuit with the fuse.....Goes from Battery + thru fuse......Then to one of the float switch wires....The other wire coming out of float switch couples to the feed from the ON/OFF switch @ the pump's Brown Hot feed wire.
When float switch is UP....completes circuit to pump.
Kendall Brown
Active member
Check that the fused power wire really goes to the + battery, for some reason mine came wired to the load side of the battery switch. I moved it over to the battery.
Check the ground wire for corrosion as well, it will be going to a common terminal block. A high resistance ground will keep it from turning on. Also check any inline splices for corrosion.
Check the ground wire for corrosion as well, it will be going to a common terminal block. A high resistance ground will keep it from turning on. Also check any inline splices for corrosion.
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I cut the fused link out (temporarily) to eliminate it as the culprit. Switch still didn’t work. How to find the ground wire on the common terminal block to float switch wire?
The only inline splices would be located in the black shrink wrap as it came from the factory. Thinking should try find ground wire on common terminal first. If that doesn’t work cut black shrink wrap back till i find the factory splice ?
warthog5
Well-known member
There is NO GND to float switch. All it does is open circuit [DN] or close circuit 9 [up] to get power to the pump.......The pump has the GND on it and it is fine......How do I know this? Because the pump runs when you flip the manual switch @ Helm.
The Black shrink wrap has to be cut back.....Check for 12V on that wire that comes from the batt with inline fuse. I don't use shrink tubing on them.......They need to be waterproof in that bilge.......Crimp/Shrink connectors......and then Liq electric tape dabed at end of connection. If you see wire has turned Dark / Black...replace that wire....It's all corroded....and has high resistance.
The Black shrink wrap has to be cut back.....Check for 12V on that wire that comes from the batt with inline fuse. I don't use shrink tubing on them.......They need to be waterproof in that bilge.......Crimp/Shrink connectors......and then Liq electric tape dabed at end of connection. If you see wire has turned Dark / Black...replace that wire....It's all corroded....and has high resistance.
sailmaster
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I have avoided float switches for decades and use either the Automatic Rule pump or a Water Witch Switch
Have installed hundreds of both with great results
I pot all of my terminals in silicone caulk like the telephone company does
the amount of call backs is almost nil
heat shrink is only needed then for aesthetics
I have tried the glue ons heat shrink and and heat shrink crimps but best bet is silicone caulk
like the dielectric grease to reduce/eliminate corrosion
we use regular grease on our dock wiring
here in the frozen North our docks come out of the river every winter
So, in bilge when you make any connection you use silicone caulk for that connection? just dab it on or really encase it?
warthog5
Well-known member
Did you know? " Automatic Rule pump" or any brand automatic pump.. Do a sampling and run for seconds all the time....even on the trailer. If they feel resistance they keep running.
Why I Don't use them and rip them out.
Why I Don't use them and rip them out.
What do you replace them with?
warthog5
Well-known member
1500 Rule and Rule A Matic PLUS float switch......But I wire them with a terminal board away from the bottom of the bilge. This is so that the components can be changed out quickly if needed , but most importantly....Can be trouble shot WITHOUT piercing the insulation of the wiring.
If the boat goes offshore.....It gets a additional 2000 Rule with a Rule A Matic PLUS that is elevated slightly......I have been known to install alarms to that float switch also.
If the boat goes offshore.....It gets a additional 2000 Rule with a Rule A Matic PLUS that is elevated slightly......I have been known to install alarms to that float switch also.
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sailmaster
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I dip the stripped exposed wire end in silicone caulk before putting it in to the connector. can be messy if not careful
i hold the connector in the crimper
FYI this is old school telephone company process. They have/ had a real slow cure squeeze tube silicone that was easy to use and store They also had connectors with a dab already in it for 20? 24? gauge wires. also use silicone grease (dielectric silicone) on all of my connections that are exposed to weather or outside or high temps like halogen bulbs. use it on my leds also because of the long time in service expected from them so i can replace them years from now without them having corroded in to the socket.
on another issue the cheap LEDs at home depot do not have a full spectrum output. I replaced all of my bulbs in the marina and on the building with cheap LEDS and the SPIDER count went way down because the lights do not attract as many bugs
sailmaster
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That is what I originally thought also. Power drain is pretty small. Use them in my old whalers that no longer naturally drain and in some of my moored sailboats. I use a sealed 7 amp hour battery that does a great job for rain maintenance Had a problem with burnouts until I realized I should be using a three amp fuse.
sailmaster
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I always try to have two pumps on my boats and buildings. Small maintenance pump and set higher a much larger trouble pump.
Would it be ok to run a new wire (with fused link) from + battery to the bilge switch?
warthog5
Well-known member
Yes....
