21SE Transducer cable routing and upgrade to B75 or B175

[Westerly Fluke Guy]

Does anyone know the route the transducer cable takes from the console to the rear bilge?
I am tossing around the idea of changing my B60 transducer to a B75 or B175.
Let me know any results you may have had with these transducers.
I am on the RI coast and most of my 95% fishing is 300ft. or shallower.
Thanks in advance.

 

[warthog5]

I assume the B60 has worked fine? Use the same routing..... What ever that is?

Tie a string on the X-Ducer cable @ the MFD end... pull it back thru the boat.... Install new X-Ducer.... Tie string to new X-Ducer cable and pull it back to the MFD.

 

[Westerly Fluke Guy]

I assume the B60 has worked fine? Use the same routing..... What ever that is?

Tie a string on the X-Ducer cable @ the MFD end... pull it back thru the boat.... Install new X-Ducer.... Tie string to new X-Ducer cable and pull it back to the MFD.

If built like most boats it’s probably all tie wrapped with the rest of the wiring before they cap the hull with the top half.

 

[Inshore Chaser]

If built like most boats it’s probably all tie wrapped with the rest of the wiring before they cap the hull with the top half.

Not sure on an SE but on my 2100 DVCC went from the cable "boot" inside the console to the pie plate just aft of the console, over the last half of fuel tank to the bilge. Obviously you will be feeding in an inverse manner....

 

[captmatt]

Attach a string to the old cable when you pull it back through. You could also attach a fish tape to the old cable rather than a string. The transducer was likely installed after the boat was built so it will have some zip ties holding it at the ends, but it is not likely to be secured by zip ties under the deck.

To drill the new hole, you can get a rescue arbor or double arbor that will allow you to mount two hole saw blades one inside the other. The inner blade is the existing hole size and the outer blade is the new hole size. Or you can drill the 3.75" hole a in piece of 3/4 plywood and use that as a guide to center the hole saw over the hole. With the plywood template approach you can leave the old B60 in place and just drill around it.

I highly recommend a B175 transducer. My boat has a B175HW that absolutely rocks for fish in the water column like striped bass, and it also marks bottom fish like black sea bass. Well worth the price and the 3.75 inch hole in your boat.

 

[Big Block]

Attach a string to the old cable when you pull it back through. You could also attach a fish tape to the old cable rather than a string. The transducer was likely installed after the boat was built so it will have some zip ties holding it at the ends, but it is not likely to be secured by zip ties under the deck.

To drill the new hole, you can get a rescue arbor or double arbor that will allow you to mount two hole saw blades one inside the other. The inner blade is the existing hole size and the outer blade is the new hole size. Or you can drill the 3.75" hole a in piece of 3/4 plywood and use that as a guide to center the hole saw over the hole. With the plywood template approach you can leave the old B60 in place and just drill around it.

I highly recommend a B175 transducer. My boat has a B175HW that absolutely rocks for fish in the water column like striped bass, and it also marks bottom fish like black sea bass. Well worth the price and the 3.75 inch hole in your boat.

I just purchased the B175 and will be replacing the smaller 2005 airmar. So going from 2.5" hole to a 3.75" hole. I am debating epoxying in a 1/2" fiberglass plate to reinforce and make drilling the new hole easier. Did you do install, have any tips or suggestions for mounting? I have no recollection of how thick the hull glass is.

2005 2520 SL (16 degree hull)

 

[warthog5]

I am debating epoxying in a 1/2" fiberglass plate to reinforce and make drilling the new hole easier.

No need for epoxy..... A Hot glue gun would work well, for what your talking about....

How I do it...... Don't make it hard. A piece of 1/4in plywood aprox. 5in square or round. Make sure it will lay flat over the existing hole....Old X-Ducer removed. Drill a 1/4in hole in the center of that 1/4in plywood. Hot Glue the plywood to the inside of the hull getting the 1/4in centered hole close to the center of existing hole in hull. It does Not have to be perfect.

BUT before you glue this plywood in.... Using the nut ring from the New X-Ducer. Lay it inside the hull.... over the existing hole. Make SURE it will lay Flat and nothing is in the way from doing that.. Sometimes you may have to offset the center of the New hole to accomplish this.... It's Important.
Yes as mentioned.... You could use one of those "Expand a hole" tool's for the holesaw.....It will not allow you to offset the hole should you need to. And a piece of scrap 1/4in plywood and hot glue is Cheap and something you may have laying around.