21se Trolling Motor Project

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GetAlong

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Location
Whittier, CA
Just finished installing a Minn Kota Terrova 72" 80lb. Successful test run today in the harbor and heading out fishing on Tuesday to see how it does inshore. Getting under the bow was a pain. Had to jerry rig a wrench extension and stick my Ring camera in the anchor locker to guide me. Parker was kind enough to route all cables through a rigging tube, making running the power super easy.

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I see No Master ON/Off switch?

Route it and mount it just inside the console door so you don't have to climb in there. Just open the door and turn the switch to ON.... At end of day....Turn switch OFF.

To not do so is my contention why all these TM's end up in the shop for a board change. Resulting from corrosion.

It's the #1 thing people do wrong on installations.

Here is a example of a TM that was left with the switch ON and left in storage a Long time. Yes it had a Master ON/OFF switch.... But operator error and Not listening to what I tell them ...Well Heres the results. Had you have bought a Rodan..... It has a sticker on the Power cord. That sticker says... Disconnect Power after use and when charging battery.
 

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On that style charger.... It's not designed for the riggers of marine use. It should be taken ON & OFF the boat when Not charging the battery. Use a Anderson style plug to do the quick hook up.
 
I see No Master ON/Off switch?

Route it and mount it just inside the console door so you don't have to climb in there. Just open the door and turn the switch to ON.... At end of day....Turn switch OFF.

To not do so is my contention why all these TM's end up in the shop for a board change. Resulting from corrosion.

It's the #1 thing people do wrong on installations.

Here is a example of a TM that was left with the switch ON and left in storage a Long time. Yes it had a Master ON/OFF switch.... But operator error and Not listening to what I tell them ...Well Heres the results. Had you have bought a Rodan..... It has a sticker on the Power cord. That sticker says... Disconnect Power after use and when charging battery.
Thanks for the note. The Blue Sea 60A breaker is indicated in the photo next to the charger. You can see it in the off position. 1703345481959.png
 
OK... It's a sealed Charger then.... The fans were the deceiving part.... Thinking it was a open box "Like a computer power supply and other chargers I've seen for these batteries.

Flipping the Breaker ON/OFF is Not the right thing to do. Having the Breaker YES... But using it as a ON/OFF switch NO..... But what you have is fairly common... The Breakers wear out fast. And as I said..... I run the cables over close to the door jamb to mount the ON/OFF switch. That way it is convenient.... If it's convenient , it makes life easier and you will use it. :)
 
I see No Master ON/Off switch?

Route it and mount it just inside the console door so you don't have to climb in there. Just open the door and turn the switch to ON.... At end of day....Turn switch OFF.

To not do so is my contention why all these TM's end up in the shop for a board change. Resulting from corrosion.

It's the #1 thing people do wrong on installations.

Here is a example of a TM that was left with the switch ON and left in storage a Long time. Yes it had a Master ON/OFF switch.... But operator error and Not listening to what I tell them ...Well Heres the results. Had you have bought a Rodan..... It has a sticker on the Power cord. That sticker says... Disconnect Power after use and when charging battery.
Not to sound stupid but I always trip the breaker when motor is in storage. Isn’t that the same as an on/off switch. Also it is recommended to charge with the breaker tripped
 
Not to sound stupid but I always trip the breaker when motor is in storage. Isn’t that the same as an on/off switch. Also it is recommended to charge with the breaker tripped
Essentially yes, and you should absolutely charge it with the breaker open.

The only downside is the breaker *can* eventually wear out from being used as a switch, even though it’s designed that way. Apparently others have seen them break from repeatedly being opened and closed. If you’re not opening and closing it every day, I think you’ll likely be fine for a long time. Worst case scenario, you’ll eventually have to replace the breaker if it ever fails.
 
As Pelagic said..... But I'll throw in another scenario.. I will start by saying... Just Good enough is NOT good enough! That is why I have the following that I do.

Now on to my explanation. The situation is say a center console with a door to access on the Port side.

Batteries are installed on the STB side in there to give access to enter the console.
Circuit Breaker [CB] is mounted above there on the STB inside Bulkhead. IE: Each time you want the equipment ON or OFF , you must crawl inside the console. Because this is a PITA... I run the wiring to a Master ON/OFF switch just inside the console door. Open door --- Turn switch. No need to get inside.

The breaker needs to be within 7in of the Power source.

Mounting placement dimensions for a fuse or circuit breaker (7"/40"/72" ABYC rule): 7 inch maximum if the conductor is not housed in a sheath or enclosure
in addition to the wire insulation, 40 inch maximum if the conductor is housed in a sheath or enclosure in addition to the wire insulation, 72 inch maximum
if the conductor is connected directly to the battery and housed in a sheath or enclosure in addition to the wire insulation

Just in general... People throw all kinds of crap in the console and things get bounced around when underway.

Easy access to shut Power Off/On makes your life a Whole lot easier.....AND it is the correct Way.
Now as has been eluded to People don't think that way and use the Breaker as a switch. People Also just don't know or forget to turn the Power Off when not in use.
Then they come back and wonder why they have a problem.
 
As Pelagic said..... But I'll throw in another scenario.. I will start by saying... Just Good enough is NOT good enough! That is why I have the following that I do.

Now on to my explanation. The situation is say a center console with a door to access on the Port side.

Batteries are installed on the STB side in there to give access to enter the console.
Circuit Breaker [CB] is mounted above there on the STB inside Bulkhead. IE: Each time you want the equipment ON or OFF , you must crawl inside the console. Because this is a PITA... I run the wiring to a Master ON/OFF switch just inside the console door. Open door --- Turn switch. No need to get inside.

The breaker needs to be within 7in of the Power source.



Just in general... People throw all kinds of crap in the console and things get bounced around when underway.

Easy access to shut Power Off/On makes your life a Whole lot easier.....AND it is the correct Way.
Now as has been eluded to People don't think that way and use the Breaker as a switch. People Also just don't know or forget to turn the Power Off when not in use.
Then they come back and wonder why they have a problem.
You’re describing the shortcomings of a poorly designed and laid out system, not an inherently flawed one.

In mine, the breaker is located within easy reach of the door. Adding a switch would not make securing power any easier. It would, however, add two more connections and another point of failure. Locating the breaker in a convenient spot is generally not that difficult; you’ve got 40” to play with with the addition of a simple wire sheath.

An additional switch isn’t going to prevent a loose object from banging into and opening a breaker. Secure your console, or protect your electrical components.

If you’re prone to forgetting to open a breaker, you’re probably just as prone to forgetting to open a switch.

You can argue that adding a dedicated switch is “better”, but saying that using a breaker designed to be switchable for that purpose is incorrect is just silly.
 
This how I wired my setup on 21se. (84” Rhodan)
A breaker is not to be used as an on/off switch.
 

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You’re describing the shortcomings of a poorly designed and laid out system, not an inherently flawed one.

In mine, the breaker is located within easy reach of the door. Adding a switch would not make securing power any easier. It would, however, add two more connections and another point of failure. Locating the breaker in a convenient spot is generally not that difficult; you’ve got 40” to play with with the addition of a simple wire sheath.

An additional switch isn’t going to prevent a loose object from banging into and opening a breaker. Secure your console, or protect your electrical components.

If you’re prone to forgetting to open a breaker, you’re probably just as prone to forgetting to open a switch.

You can argue that adding a dedicated switch is “better”, but saying that using a breaker designed to be switchable for that purpose is incorrect is just silly.
I have a breaker and no on off switch. Never had a problem. I turn it on when I want power and when done unplug my Rhodan and open the breaker. 5 years not one problem
 
One exception........ There are ALWAY's exception's to the Rules.

If there was just one that came to mind..... That would be ... Boats Come in All different configurations and then must be figured out, What is the best layout for THIS one. :)
 
I just followed the Minn Kota wiring diagram. Additionally, the Blue Sea 285 circuit breaker description states, "Combines switching and circuit breaker function into one unit." Seems like it was designed to work like this. Sure, an on-off switch might last a little longer, but I prefer the simplicity of this layout. I don't have a problem reaching into the console to turn it on or off either.

On another note, I fished a full day and the motor performed flawlessly. The 80lb thrust held the boat over deep-water spots in strong winds and current with no problem.
 
Wouldnt disconnecting the trolling motor at the plug accomplish the same thing as an on/off switch?
I suppose it would, I don’t like to charge my batteries with it plugged in and sometimes I may forget to disconnect the plug since it hidden, in this case your charging the batteries with the unit on, which will cause the board to fail rather quickly. All it takes is a single time and it can/will cause you a headache. I open the breaker to have a fail safe. I guess there is many ways to accomplish the same thing. Too bad they don’t have a switch for the trolling motors, but just another switch to corrode I suppose
 
I suppose it would, I don’t like to charge my batteries with it plugged in and sometimes I may forget to disconnect the plug since it hidden, in this case your charging the batteries with the unit on, which will cause the board to fail rather quickly. All it takes is a single time and it can/will cause you a headache. I open the breaker to have a fail safe. I guess there is many ways to accomplish the same thing. Too bad they don’t have a switch for the trolling motors, but just another switch to corrode I suppose
When you guys refer to charging while they system is on, or plugged in, leading to premature board failure, are you referring to dockside 3-bank charging systems or onboard charging systems such as a Trollbridge or similar that charge while you're running?
The trollbridge switched the 36V to 3 12V systems while charging and running, so I'm not sure if these could cause premature board faiure.
 
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