300 Hour Maintenance

[Ozdogg]

Hello CP Family,

What does the 300 hour maintenance consist of? I heard fluids, plugs, filters and water pump. Is that it? When does the thermostat and internal zincs get changed? I have a F200 on my 2120. Thanks and have a Happy New Year!

 

[afitzray]

Might be some variation depending on that engine being a 3.3 or 4.2, but the general schedule is in the thumbnails below. And everyone will tell you it also depends on how you use the engine- Some will do things earlier and some later. If you haven't done internal anodes and thermostats I'd go ahead and do them. Fuel/water filters and also the engine fuel filter(s). Lube tilt/trim and also the zerks inside the engine. Check seals around the prop shaft and water pump.

 

[Dleopoldi914]

I would take a look at the internal zincs irs super easy. I bought the internal zincs to do and at 300 hours were barely touched…..

 

[warthog5]

When waterpump gets changed..... Thermostat & Pop Off valve get changed also. This gives you a peak inside to see how clean or dirty your cooling system is. They are often overlooked.

if your 1st water pump change is 300hrs. THAT "Can" be a Long period of time. Considering the "Average" boater puts 50hrs a year on their boat.

It's my pretension to change the waterpump ...especially for the first time...Way sooner. WHY? If you have ever fought the removable of the foot due to the driveshaft rusted into the end of the Crankshaft....you will know why. The first WP change to me, is Not so much that it needs a WP, but to get grease and antiseze on threads so your not fighting things down the road.

Around here.... The quoted stranded is water pump change @ 150hrs for inshore and 200hrs for offshore.

 

[tomc585]

If you have ever fought the removable of the foot due to the driveshaft rusted into the end of the Crankshaft....you will know why. The first WP change to me, is Not so much that it needs a WP, but to get grease and antiseze on threads so your not fighting things down the road.

This ^ 100%

 

[Ozdogg]

When waterpump gets changed..... Thermostat & Pop Off valve get changed also. This gives you a peak inside to see how clean or dirty your cooling system is. They are often overlooked.

if your 1st water pump change is 300hrs. THAT "Can" be a Long period of time. Considering the "Average" boater puts 50hrs a year on their boat.

It's my pretension to change the waterpump ...especially for the first time...Way sooner. WHY? If you have ever fought the removable of the foot due to the driveshaft rusted into the end of the Crankshaft....you will know why. The first WP change to me, is Not so much that it needs a WP, but to get grease and antiseze on threads so your not fighting things down the road.

Around here.... The quoted stranded is water pump change @ 150hrs for inshore and 200hrs for offshore.

Thanks for the feedback, Wart!

 

[Mpellet]

When waterpump gets changed..... Thermostat & Pop Off valve get changed also. This gives you a peak inside to see how clean or dirty your cooling system is. They are often overlooked.

if your 1st water pump change is 300hrs. THAT "Can" be a Long period of time. Considering the "Average" boater puts 50hrs a year on their boat.

It's my pretension to change the waterpump ...especially for the first time...Way sooner. WHY? If you have ever fought the removable of the foot due to the driveshaft rusted into the end of the Crankshaft....you will know why. The first WP change to me, is Not so much that it needs a WP, but to get grease and antiseze on threads so your not fighting things down the road.

Around here.... The quoted stranded is water pump change @ 150hrs for inshore and 200hrs for offshore.

I repowered from Yamaha to Suzuki back in 2019. I had done some reading before making the jump to Suzuki and while almost everything I read about the Suzuki DFs was positive, there were more reports of sticky lower units then with Yamaha. Subsequently I planned 100% to drop my lower unit at the end of my first season with my 2019 White Suzuki DF300APXX. I put on 220 hours that first year and when I unbolted the lower it came off without any drama BUT the drive shaft splines were almost bone dry.

If there had been grease applied during assembly at the factory, there wasn’t any grease remaining. I can’t say what would have happened, had I waited 2-3 more years to drop that lower but it did leave me wondering if the reputation of Suzuki’s having sticky lowers was related to mine coming from the factory with almost 0 grease.

Ive been 200+ hours of use each season since 2019 and include a new water pump as part of my annual maintenance. I have now removed and replaced the lower unit 5 times with 1109 total hours on the engine so far. Given the overall condition of the impellers after a season, I’m confident that they’d pump fine for 2 seasons (or more) but I like the idea of an annual removal, greasing and reinstalling of the lower unit and since I’m gonna be in there, spending a small amount of $$ on a water pump kit is common sense to me.

At 300 hours, I too would for sure be removing the lower unit and replacing the water pump regardless of engine manufacturer.