Aluminum I Bean or Galvanized

[Sully]

Ok To Aluminum I Bean or Galvanized


I will be buying a new trailer this year
I use only in salt water
I have only had Galvanized trailers
Typically came with boat I bought new had 3
But now I finally have a boat I have had for 7 years and going to keep

I was talking to a friend who says just get the galvanized
Coat it regularly with “fluid film” and be done with it
The aluminum doesn’t hold up as well with salt with pitting and corrosion
Especially on the rims and bead around tires and all hardware is the same

Do you find this to be true?
I like the Idea of aluminum I beam for lighter weight
And easier to work on electrical

Also he told me to go with spring instead of torsion bar
Because when on uneven ground wheels could raise up on one side
Also if springs break can be replaces easier on the road

Any scuttlebutt would be appreciated

 

[BradV]

Is your friend thrifty? Pretty much every recommendation he gave you is for a cheap trailer. That being said galvanized or aluminum isnt really that big of a difference. The aluminum is usually lighter but it is the components of the trailer that really matter. I have aluminum trailer with triple axles. The axles are all galvanized which is going to be true of almost every trailer there are a few that use aluminum or stainless but that is mucho dinero. All the brakes are kodiaks but not stainless because my dealer didnt think the benefit of stainless discs was worth the price. I have electric over hydraulic brakes which i prefer because I can adjust the trailer gain inside the truck depending on how loaded the boat is without having to feel it pushing on me. I have all stainless hardware for the bunks and crossmember brackets which most of the time will be galvanized. I didnt spend the money for mag wheel just regular galvanized. Led lights. I have a heavy duty winch on the front with 7 teeth, 2 gears and a 10,000lb strap. I also have a center bunk that goes the length of the trailer that is covered in plastic to help with launching and loading and also centering the keel when driving on.

I sat down and talked with the owner of the trailer shop and asked him exactly what he would do if he had to build a trailer from scratch and those were his recommendations. Not the cheapest but now I dont worry about the trailer.

 

[jeffnick]

For ultimate strength and durability, my preferance is:
galvanized
springs
bunks
I also prefer all electric brakes.

If I was worried about looks, weight or challenging ramps that's when I'd be looking at other options.

 

[Aircoastie]

Go Aluminum with all stainless hardware!!! You will pay for it, but it will be a lot cheaper in the long haul. I paid about 5k for the Aluminum trailer under my 2320, but I had them custom build it with I beams from the next larger trailer, 5200 lbs torsion axels, and electric over hydraulic brakes.

I overkilled it because I used to be a police officer in S. Florida and saw so many accidents involving under built boat trailers that I did not want to be responsible for hurting somebody on the road because I wanted to save a few bucks on a "just adequate" trailer.

If you are going to keep your boat for a long time, you will not regret putting the extra money into your trailer. I have had mine two years now with a lot of miles in salt water, never a problem, just lube the bearings before every long haul.

 

[Mokee]

What Aircoastie said x2. EZer on equipment & u2.

 

[MaxOut]

Do not buy an E-Z Loader.....JUNK & Overpriced.

Galvanizing is poor and quality overall is sad. Never Again!

I do love the hydraulic over electric 4 wheel discs & LED Lights though....but I paid an extra $2500.00 for them.

 

[Megabyte]

What Aircoastie said x2.

Times 3. :wink:

 

[Aircoastie]

Do not buy an E-Z Loader.....JUNK & Overpriced.

Galvanizing is poor and quality overall is sad. Never Again!

I do love the hydraulic over electric 4 wheel discs & LED Lights though....but I paid an extra $2500.00 for them.

 

[Sully]

Love you guys!
In a Parker sort of way :lol:

Thanks for all you postings
The input is great!
I think I will go with the Aluminum with all stainless hardware
But Im thinking disc breaks ????
I have had them before but the rot out quick
I will be coating every part of this new trailer
With a saltaway wash down on a regular basis
And a good coat of Fluid film after on a regular basis

By the way Im looking at a Shorland'r right now
Thats what I have and the sell them at 3A Marine
But Im holding on to the Boat show on Feb 20th
See what I can see

 

[Megabyte]

Disc brakes will give better performance, and last longer than drums brakes.
Same goes for torsion axles. No rusted and broken leaf springs. :wink:

 

[Aircoastie]

Go disk!! Electric over hydraulic if u can put the $$$ into it. I have never had a set of surge brakes that have worked more then a few years. Some of the other guys mentioned LED. That is also worth the $$ as conventional lights will fail and the LED, well my LED' are still perfect after two years of heavy use, along with every thing else on my trailer that I DO NO BABY. So if u baby it, will last forever. Bought my rig from loadmasters in Tampa. I will have them build my next trailer as they were awesome.

 

[BradV]

I had a loadmaster previously. Good trailer. And I had the new one built by continental. They had the all stainless hardware upgrade for free along with all disc brakes and the electric over hydraulic option was only 300-400 bucks.

 

[MaxOut]

I had a loadmaster previously. Good trailer. And I had the new one built by continental. They had the all stainless hardware upgrade for free along with all disc brakes and the electric over hydraulic option was only 300-400 bucks.

What?? If you can get discs, electric over hydraulic & stainless hardware on a triple axle trailer for 3-400 bucks....GO THERE!!

The hydraulic controller on my trailer was close to $1000.00 alone.

It's amazing how much cheaper trailers are in FL. That’s where I got my last all aluminum trailer and had it shipped up for several thousand less than locally.

 

[Sully]

Who did you use In FL.
And I agree trailer prices around here in Mass
Are like buying a car
I dont mind paying for Quality....But!!
And I try not to trip over a fifty to pick up a nickle
I would not mind even going down to FL to pick a new one up
Or have it shipped If it saved me 1500.
Id use the time to do some Diving

 

[BradV]

Ha the entire trailer cost around 7k. but it was a triple axle 13800# so pretty substantial trailer. Much cheaper than others for the same size.

 

[Aircoastie]

I traded the piece of crap trailer the boat dealer sold when I bought my boat me at loadmaster (I will never let a dealer sell me a trailer again!!!). Loadmaster gave me enough to knock the $$ down and lower the taxable amount for the new trailer. They swapped the boat in the yard and set the trailer up for the new boat while I ate BBQ down the street. They are not the only good manufacturer but I had a great experience with them and I went there because somebody else recommended them to me.

 

[Aircoastie]

Getting ready to tow from Sarasota to Ft. Lauderdale this morning!!! Off topic, but can anybody tell me if there is a bait boat in the Ft. Lauderdale inlet? Trying for sails tomorrow.

 

[Megabyte]

To get an idea of what is available, take a look at these trailers.

http://www.slideon.com/

 

[Mokee]

FF said:

For a good, reliable (mine's 7 years old, one set of pads) trailer at a fair price try www.loadmastertrailer.com

Custom ordered a Loadmaster last winter from The Boat Exchange in Columbia SC. He took the old trailer in trade and fit my 2120 to the new trailer included in the price. Happy with the new trailer so far.

Hard to find a galvanized trailer with springs anymore.

 

[Tyler]

If you google loadmaster it looks like a few different comp with that name .Which one is the best ?