Any idea on how to get the anchor to self launch?

[Cheapie408]

I have a profish 700 on my 2120. My anchor doesn't drop on its own whenever I release the windlass, it needs a little shove before it starts dropping. Quick reverse doesn't help either.

Been thinking about adding another roller towards the back so that the anchor arm is elevated up when resting hoping that it would drop itself so I don't have to send a guy up front each time. Curious on if anyone done something similar to remedy this issue?

 

[Andy]

I have a profish 700 on my 2120. My anchor doesn't drop on its own whenever I release the windlass, it needs a little shove before it starts dropping. Quick reverse doesn't help either.

Been thinking about adding another roller towards the back so that the anchor arm is elevated up when resting hoping that it would drop itself so I don't have to send a guy up front each time. Curious on if anyone done something similar to remedy this issue?

Hi Cheapie, check to see if the anchor-roller 'free-spins' when the anchor is not mounted; or is tight. We had the same issue on ours, and found that they installed a 'too-short' bolt, and tighten it to the point that the roller would not roll. I replaced the bolt, added washers and fixed the problem.... I posted two videos of the 'fix'...
Here's the first one, showing 'the fix'...


And here's the second one, showing how it works;

 

[Cheapie408]

Nice video I do think that my roller does not roll properly. I'll check it out thanks you

 

[Ozdogg]

Nice video I do think that my roller does not roll properly. I'll check it out thanks you

I thought was jut part of the windlass process going down! My wife hates going up to the bow and giving the anchor a bump. Now, I'll check the roller and see if it's too tight. Do you ever have an issue with the rope bunching up in the anchor locker and causing the windlass to jam up on the way up and trip the breaker?

 

[Ozdogg]

Hi Cheapie, check to see if the anchor-roller 'free-spins' when the anchor is not mounted; or is tight. We had the same issue on ours, and found that they installed a 'too-short' bolt, and tighten it to the point that the roller would not roll. I replaced the bolt, added washers and fixed the problem.... I posted two videos of the 'fix'...
Here's the first one, showing 'the fix'...


And here's the second one, showing how it works;

Do you ever have an issue with the rope bunching up in the anchor locker and causing the windlass to jam up on the way up and trip the breaker?

 

[Andy]

Do you ever have an issue with the rope bunching up in the anchor locker and causing the windlass to jam up on the way up and trip the breaker?

Hi Ozdogg, I've seen discussion here on CP about what you've mentioned; some folks having to 'station' someone in the cuddy cabin, accessing the anchor rode-locker, via the anchor-rode-hatch, to help 're-distribute' the anchor line as it's being retrieved with the windlass. Fortunately, I have never had to do that; I have never experienced that problem/issue. I know that a lot of CP folks carry very long anchor lines, as they fish and/or anchor in very deep waters. That might contribute to the problem; the rode-lockers would be nearly full; just not enough room in the locker for as much line that they have. On my primary anchor I carry only about 200' of line, attached to about 25' of chain. I anchor often, and I have never had to 'distribute' the anchor line when retrieving it. Come to think of it, I haven't even looked into the anchor rode locker this year... I anchor in mostly shallow waters; typically 10'-15'. Sometimes only 4'-5'...occasionally 25'-30'... This may be why I have not experienced that issue as I don't use that much anchor line..... Side note; [When anchoring, depending upon conditions, I try to use a minimum of a 5:1 ratio; I prefer 7:1, and even 10:1 if anchoring overnight.... If we needed to anchor in deep waters (near-shore in 60-80' ??) I would bring additional/longer line, but we have not done that with the Parker, yet.]

 

[Bodick93]

There is a lot of chain in the locker trying to keep it from falling (weight wise). A 20 pounder would probably drop, but a 14, not so much.
That's part of anchoring. Kick it over, strip it to "x" color band and cleat if off while you're up there. My roller is free spinning.
I spray painted different color bands every 30 feet.

 

[Ozdogg]

Hi Ozdogg, I've seen discussion here on CP about what you've mentioned; some folks having to 'station' someone in the cuddy cabin, accessing the anchor rode-locker, via the anchor-rode-hatch, to help 're-distribute' the anchor line as it's being retrieved with the windlass. Fortunately, I have never had to do that; I have never experienced that problem/issue. I know that a lot of CP folks carry very long anchor lines, as they fish and/or anchor in very deep waters. That might contribute to the problem; the rode-lockers would be nearly full; just not enough room in the locker for as much line that they have. On my primary anchor I carry only about 200' of line, attached to about 25' of chain. I anchor often, and I have never had to 'distribute' the anchor line when retrieving it. Come to think of it, I haven't even looked into the anchor rode locker this year... I anchor in mostly shallow waters; typically 10'-15'. Sometimes only 4'-5'...occasionally 25'-30'... This may be why I have not experienced that issue as I don't use that much anchor line..... Side note; [When anchoring, depending upon conditions, I try to use a minimum of a 5:1 ratio; I prefer 7:1, and even 10:1 if anchoring overnight.... If we needed to anchor in deep waters (near-shore in 60-80' ??) I would bring additional/longer line, but we have not done that with the Parker, yet.]

Thank Andy. I'm going to try and redistribute the rode and see if that works.

 

[Antidote]

I am able to carry 300' of rope and 40' of chain on my 2520 XLD. I can't say I have never had a problem with a tangle in the locker; but, it has been maybe twice in three years and 550 hours of use. Both were while deploying the anchor, not retrieving it. If you are using three ply rope you should change to 8 plat the next time you replace your rode. It falls into the locker much better. Also, with that much chain I still had problems with the Lewmar Claw anchor self deploying even after making sure the roller was free by doing what Andy shows in his video. I switched to a heavier 22# Delta anchor and now she drops like a rock every time.

 

[stillfishin]

I have a profish 700 on my 2120. My anchor doesn't drop on its own whenever I release the windlass, it needs a little shove before it starts dropping. Quick reverse doesn't help either.

Been thinking about adding another roller towards the back so that the anchor arm is elevated up when resting hoping that it would drop itself so I don't have to send a guy up front each time. Curious on if anyone done something similar to remedy this issue?

Took a tip from a previous member and mounted two disc style zincs on the anchor "wings." West Marine code of R3 is on them. Had to drill 5/8" holes for the bolts and buy extra bolt and stainless nut. No problems deploying the anchor now. ALWAYS have a problem on the retrieve getting the fat splice between the chain and rope to get thru the Lewmar windless.

 

[gregd123]

I have a 2520 with 60' 5/16" chain and ~550' of 9/16" 3-strand rope of which ~350' fits in the locker and I keep the rest in a small laundry basket by the door to the locker. I recognize that is too much for the locker as it binds up almost every time and I have to reach up to pull the chain off the front slope of the locker. In hindsight (always 20-20!) I would 1) definitely go with the 8 plait as it should lay down better and 2) when mounting the Lewmar, mount it further back so when the rode comes off the gypsy it goes into the middle/back of the locker instead of the front slope of the locker. As an interim fix as I am too cheap to replace my rope which is only 1+ years old, I am planning on putting a second circle hatch above the main anchor locker hatch so I can reach the top of the locker to pull the chain down without being a contortionist.

 

[scalywag05]

Stillfishin..... thanks for sharing. I will try that

 

[Antidote]

Took a tip from a previous member and mounted two disc style zincs on the anchor "wings." West Marine code of R3 is on them. Had to drill 5/8" holes for the bolts and buy extra bolt and stainless nut. No problems deploying the anchor now. ALWAYS have a problem on the retrieve getting the fat splice between the chain and rope to get thru the Lewmar windless.

The splice probably needs to be redone. I re-splice mine about once a year. If it is 3 plat it is relatively easy. 8 plat is a little more difficult; but, very doable. A good soak in fabric softener helps also.

 

[Bodick93]

Am I the only one that has the rode run down one side of the control arm and partially jam during free fall?

 

[Bodick93]

I love the zinc idea. I was thinking about using a big *** shackle on the anchor "cross member," but the zincs are much better. The 22 pound anchor is not an option for me.

I look at anchor setting and retrieving as a 2 person job since it has to be cleated and freed from the cleat. When we pull the anchor, we give the rode in the locker a quick pack periodically, but proactively. When the splice approaches the windlass, we grab the chain, flip up the control arm, drop the splice through the spurling pipe, finish retrieval and lanyard the chain. It really can't be a 1 person (with zero trips to the bow) evolution, just because of cleating and locking/unlocking the anchor.

 

[Antidote]

Am I the only one that has the rode run down one side of the control arm and partially jam during free fall?

No; but, the two jams I had were tangled rode in the locker. Pull it back up with the windlass and let her go again worked once. The other time I had to reach through the hatch and untangle it.

 

[Bodick93]

No; but, the two jams I had were tangled rode in the locker. Pull it back up with the windlass and let her go again worked once. The other time I had to reach through the hatch and untangle it.

I am talking about during deployment. It is proper sized 8 plait. If I don't pull the control arm up, I will wedge in there every time. It is almost like the control arm is too narrow at the bottom where it rides on the rode. Only happens on deployment. I pull it up and wrap the dang lanyard around it during free fall. Its part of the routine, but just another work-around.

 

[Antidote]

I am talking about during deployment. It is proper sized 8 plait. If I don't pull the control arm up, I will wedge in there every time. It is almost like the control arm is too narrow at the bottom where it rides on the rode. Only happens on deployment. I pull it up and wrap the dang lanyard around it during free fall. Its part of the routine, but just another work-around.

Something isn't right. How is the alignment of the windlass to the bow roller? When you are deploying are you running the capstan too loose? You should only need to unwind the capstan about 1-1 1/2 turns for it to start free falling. You may need to disassemble the capstan and lube it up. While you have it apart chase the threads on the shaft with a die and in the capstan with a tap. Be careful not to cross thread them. I'm assuming it's a ProFish 700. If it is, these are what you'll need 5/8" 18 pitch. On the shaft, I ran the die the proper way first and then turned it around to get the die to clean the threads all the way to the bottom because the die I have isn't a bottoming die. Take it easy, going forwards and backwards to clean the threads. This also fixes the issue of the capstan not tightening enough to retrieve the rode.

 

[Bodick93]

I lubed the capstan during the summer and it didn't change anything. The owners manual says to hold the down button for two seconds to initiate freefall. That doesn't work on mine. I am going to do the zinc mod first to get it to free fall, then try a lesser time on the "down" switch when deploying. I don't intentionally go more than 2 seconds now, but I can certainly try to reduce it. I could see where the gypsy having extra room to move side to side would cause the control arm to run down beside the rode. It is a different "feed" angle, but the control arm never gets beside the rode on retrieval. I will post a video when I can get the boat out again.

 

[Cheapie408]

Yah this didn't work for me either. Lubed everything to make sure the rollers aren't caught up I can spin it freely no problem Was on the water recently and tested it but there wasn't enough angle at the bow to let the anchor down. I think you lucky guys with the bigger parkers don't have this issue.

FWIW we had two guys both guys in the cabin with no ice onboard. If it's an angle issue it's going to be worse when I add the kicker. Thinking maybe I need to add another roller towards the back of the anchor on some blocks so the anchor always rest in a downward position.