Anyone have fuel tank specs for 2013 23' DVCC?

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captmatt

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The model number of the tank is FMT-150E-PME (serial number is 18106543). This tank is in a 23 deep vee hull center console with the step down style console.

I have requested this information numerous times from Parker and get no response.

I appreciate any help!
 
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The model number of the tank is FMT-150E-PME (serial number is 18106543). This tank is in a 23 deep vee hull center console with the step down style console.

I have requested this information numerous times from Parker and get no response.

I appreciate any help!
If you do get a response back form parker with measurements for your tank, don't trust them! Happend to me went off their measurements, had a tank made to them, it was wrong. The drawing they gave me was just a sketch from their factory drawings due to Copyright issues. All but one measurement, the deck side, was wrong. They must of changed their design and the PM cant read dates on drawings. Sounds like the slow way to do it, but if it time for a new tank pull the old one, take your measurements, then fill out the order for a new one. I wouldn't want anybody to go thru what I had to when I get a tank that was a completely different shape!
 
Thanks for the word fo warning about verifying any drawings before having a tank made!

FMT will be happy to share the drawings - for $3k they give you the drawings and throw in a tank too!

I has hoping that someone might be able to share the drawings so that I could shop it around at various tank fab shops. FMT would be the best but transport is an issue. There are several other tank fabricators much closer to the boat.
 
My boat has a saturated deck core because the deck penetration under the console where all wires pass was not sealed (they just cut a hole and left the edges raw). The tank is probably on the fast track to corrosion since water has been leaking on top of it since day one. I predict there will be a lot of water in the tank compartment.

Since I have to replace the deck then I feel forced to replace the tank and all fuel hoses as a proactive measure. No way am I going to open the deck a second time ten years later to replace the tank.
 
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I would do just the opposite if the deck isn't soft. That is, ventilate and stop the water intrusion, and then when the tank goes, replace the deck. I also understand OCD tendencies...gotdangit Parker!
 
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I am bumping this thread in case someone can help with the dimensions of a tank with model number FMT-150E-PME.

My boat is now at the shop and will be opened up in the next week or two. Deck is starting to delaminate, t-top screws are pulling out. Time to fix it before something fails in a dangerous way.

I am checking the parts surplus places like Great Lake Skipper to see if they might have my tank in inventory. Trying to save a few bucks!
 
Since I have to replace the deck then I feel forced to replace the tank and all fuel hoses as a proactive measure.

Thats the easiest way to do one, yet it will be expensive to get it all back together.

I wouldn't worry about contacting anyone on the tank. Cut the deck , pull the tank and inspect it. If it's pitted....Have one built [Local] ....If it's Not pitted.... Clean it inside and out.... Prep it for Coal Tar epoxy coating..... Proceed as I have explained Many, Many , Many times in the past. New hoses....and go.
 
Appreciate the advice, Warthog. I have read your posts closely and plan to do things as you recommend - coat the tank, foam in place, fiberglass over foam, and then limber holes at rear of tank compartment.

But no way am I going to all that trouble with the old tank. $3k for a new tank is not that much compared to the price of the whole job.
 
I get it... My caviot was inspected condition..... You can't inspect a tank until it's removed.... At that point a true assessment can be made.... For new tank... step it up to 3/16 material also.
 
Here was mine for a 1999 23' Deep Vee. Make sure your part number (marked on the tank) is a 50271 from RDS Manufcturing.
 

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Reporting back on this thread for posterity. Here is the design of the replacement tank for my 2013 23 DVCC in case it can help someone in the future.
 

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Did you take any pictures, Captmatt, while the tank was out, or during the project? How did the old tank look? Just curious. I 100% understand replacing the tank regardless.
 
The old tank was not too bad but it had been sitting in water. There was at least 5 gallons in the compartment - you can see the line on the rear of the tank in the picture. Keep in mind that tank is only ten years old.

For the new one, it was sanded, and then epoxy paint coated, and then plastic strips glued to the bottom with 5200. This was all done on the recommendation of the very experienced guy doing the work, Jon Nomer.

He also installed a limber drain with a plastic ball valve at the rear of the fuel tank compartment and a new pie plate in the deck just behind the live well for access. The drain can be opened to check for water and any fuel.
 

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The model number of the tank is FMT-150E-PME (serial number is 18106543). This tank is in a 23 deep vee hull center console with the step down style console.

I have requested this information numerous times from Parker and get no response.

I appreciate any help!

I have attached the fuel tank diagram that I got from the original manufacture of the tank that's printed on the tank. You can check your tank for the part number and make sure they are the same. They do not make the tank anymore. I sent the diagram to Speedytank in New Jersey and talked to Trica. They will make the tank 3/8" instead of the original 1/4" tank that Parker installed. I am from Beaufort NC just 3 miles from the Parker factory. If you are in the area, I can provide who installed my tank. I was VERY pleased with the tank and installation. I have a 1999 23' Deep Vee and a Parker 2801.
 

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  • Tank Parts Checklist.pdf
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My boat has a saturated deck core because the deck penetration under the console where all wires pass was not sealed (they just cut a hole and left the edges raw). The tank is probably on the fast track to corrosion since water has been leaking on top of it since day one. I predict there will be a lot of water in the tank compartment.

Since I have to replace the deck then I feel forced to replace the tank and all fuel hoses as a proactive measure. No way am I going to open the deck a second time ten years later to replace the tank.
how did so much water get into the center console to cause that much damage isn't it pretty dry inside the console the only time I get water in their is when I clean inside the console
 
how did so much water get into the center console to cause that much damage isn't it pretty dry inside the console the only time I get water in their is when I clean inside the console
The water went under the console, between the console pan and the deck. My boat has the step-down console - that step down section protrudes under the deck through a hole cut in the deck. The console pan is supposed to be sealed to the deck. In my boat, the joint between the deck and console pan was not sealed well and let lots and lots of water in. The water soaked into the plywood at the raw edge of the step down cut out.

The picture shows the starboard side of the bottom of the console after it was lifted off the deck and laid down on its bow or windshield side. You can see the screw holes and a couple of small dabs of sealant (bright white since sealant was cut to break the bond). The sealant was missing along almost the entire starboard edge of the console pan. The port side and front edges also had little sealant. That is where the water got in. You can see the dirt carried down by water. The boat was like that the day it left the factory.
 

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