Battery Issues

[rangerdog]

Went to check my batteries this weekend. They are Optimax Blue Tops installed last August. Thge house battery was at 12.2 volts and took a top off easily. The starting battery had only 5.5 volts and would not take a charge with my automatic Black and Decker charger; said it had an internal short. I took it back to batteries Plus and they were able to charge it and it is good to go. Now aside from the fact that I need to invest in a Battery Tender or two. It seems that I have a vampire on the boat slowly discharging the starting battery because the same thing happened last year. Any ideas?

 

[Brent]

I would install a battery selector switch.
Second check recent postings on placing a battery post terminal on the transom to solve common battery connections problems and remove accesory feeds off the battery terminals

 

[DaleH]

I would install a battery selector switch.
Second check recent postings on placing a battery post terminal on the transom to solve common battery connections problems and remove accesory feeds off the battery terminals

Ditton on both!

Ancor Power Post, only $18, click here.

With a Power Post, you have a CONTINUAL GROUND in your circuit! when 2 batteries are tied to each other, you have to disconnect power to add/remove things. With the power post, each battery is independant - simply switch battery switch to 'other' battery to remove the other one's lead to/from the battery to the Power Post.

To really be snazzy, mount it in a large plastic tupperware box and add rubber grommets to the sides, feeding in all wires thru grommets. Poor man's water-resistant box . Lube conns with dielectric grease and spray down with Boeshield T9 or equivalent.

 

[Brent]

If you turn off batteries when leaving boat,
nothing to drain but a bad bilge pump switch. ?


I change out batteries every 3 years...common BassPro batteries.
Total cost between $100-$200.
No need for chargers and boat sets for 4 months at a time w/o starting or charging.

Fires right up.

good thought maybe the auto bilge pump switch is cycling

 

[rangerdog]

Well there's nothing wrong with the battery. They were able to charge and load test it. I will ask them why my charger wouldn't do it. Then I will try to monitor the voltage and clean and check all connections.

I have, of course, a battery switch already and I am awaiting the arrival of this:

 

[Brent]

Did you look at the bilge pump? Some have an automatic sensing circuit that is activated every 30 seconds. Electronic music players (head units, radio, CD player) draw power when turned off. ex a LCD monitor draws 5 watts with the power switch is off
What is connected to the problem battery?

 

[Brent]

What load setting did they use?

 

[rangerdog]

Its the starting battery. The only paracitic leak may be from the bilge pumps I'll have to check the wiring diagram.

I don't know what load setting they used probably 1/2 the cca for x seconds.

 

[Brent]

good luck

 

[esfishdoc]

I can't address why your battery went down but I do have some similar experience with "smart" chargers. They are too smart for their own good!

When the voltage is real low mine will give me a shorted cell error and quit charging.

You can reset the charger over and over so it gives some charge before shutting down and eventually the battery will be up to its minimum level to keep the charger going.

One fix is to get a cheap low amp charger without any functions or options and use it to get a low bat up to a voltage that will honor your smart chargers settings.

I wonder if this is a way to sell more batteries....? Make a bunch of chargers to tell people they have a shorted cell and replace the battery...... hmmmmm...